I did see braided kits on eBay too. Don’t want to modify the mount really Do you have Ajq in a mk2 aswell? Did you have to modify the oil drain at all with the boosted dab mount? Might be worth just spending anothe £50 on that and use the Audi drain rather the messing around with eBay stuff
Had an apy s3 engine, inly thing I may have done was adjust the position of the hose, can't remember if it bolts in one of the holes used or just a slight bend to clear, was a couple of years ago. I had oem mounts first of all, but then swapped due to clearance, well, plus needed the rear box one too. Cut and welded a mk3 tdi mount to clear a pd130 turbo on my caddy van, got it all reinforced around cut, gusseted and everything by an ally welder, then found darksidedevelopments sell one for the job.
Just so I know I have this right in my head, Re ecu/coil pack relay. I’m going to use the tt main battery fuse teminals and the relay box I got from the scrap yard. I will go from battery+ to one of the fuse terminals with a 15amp fuse, then to pin 30 on relay then out on pin 87 which will feed t10a-8(coil pack power) and t6-4(ecu permanent power) will it also power t10a-5 fuel pump live for injectors? the relay will be switched on pin 86 by g1-4 ignition live- and pin 85 will go to earth. Can Blue and yellow from carbon canister be used to switch the relay?? Thanks for all your help so far I’ve managed to piece together a good harness that’s not missing any clips.
If you have an ecu which uses the 428 ecu relay the red/green permanent live on T6/4 pin powers ecu pin 62 and your ecu/coil relay pins 30 and 86. so all you need to do is feed this with perm live with 15a fuse inline, I just go straight to the battery that way you know its going to get the best feed. The relay doesnt have a switched live (if there is a black wire to relay holder ignore it, you'll notice there is no terminal on relay for it), instead it is triggered by the ecu. this will only work if your ecu is the right type, the early ajq will ignore the relay it doesnt have the logic to trigger it. you can still use it though, just with a slight tweak. you'll need to cut the earth to relay pin 85 and run that direct to ground. then cut the little jumper wire from 30 to 86, and feed a switched live to 86 instead, if theres a black wire to the relay holder you can use that its common with the switched live to T6/1. If not, just run your own switched live. either way the ecu is turned on by an ignition live to the t6/1 pin, just for the earlier ecu its the only switched feed while the late ecu also has power input from the 428 relay the blue/yellow to the carbon canister is common to the lambda(s), maf and SAI valve if it has it, and powered by the fuel relay from T6/5 is a fuel pump live. depending on how you put the loom together you might take the old carbon canister feed and run it over to the T14a plug pin 6 for example. I wouldn't use it to trigger the ecu relay personally but as long as the ecu is on a switched live it would work the only affect it would have is that the coils would only be live while cranking rather than all the time with ignition
The relay box I have didn’t have an ecu relay in only relay for secondary air. It’s a 328 relay may be wrong there with the number don’t shoot me at work can’t remember but it is a power relay I believe. So I’m ok doing what I said above just leave switch the relay with g1-4 not blue and yellow
alrighty so if you want to use the SAI as a coil power relay cut the brown/grey off to ecu and earth it, put switched live to the blue/yellow, fat red fused to battery with 15a inline and the fat white/red to whatever circuits you want to power from it. tap the T6/1 wire to the same 15a fuse if your ecu doesnt need the ecu relay it'll just power the perm live ecu pin job done
Ok thank you so should I just power coil packs with this or t10a-5 injectors aswell or is that needed
its up to you how you do it exactly, but if you were top add more feeds onto the relay split the output into multiple fuses. you dont want the all of the engine power feeds running from a single 15a fuse. As long as you give this relay a good beefy live it can take the load though, just as I say on the output tap in 3 fuses and split your feeds from it. the way I would do it though is keep the ecu relay just powering your coilpacks t14a/8. wire it up so the ECU triggers the factory fuel relay in the fusebox, leave fuel pump wiring same as original. split 2 feeds from the Z/1 pin 10a for t14a/6, and 15a for the t14a/5 and t6/5. you could have 3 fuses 10a for all 3 if you want, up to you. Since you have the relay box you'll note it has empty fuse holders in, I use all of these for my engine looms. run a chunky 4-6mm2 wire from Z/1 to the box, then split it into your 2/3 fuel pump powered feeds. put the 15a fuse in here for coilpacks as well
I will try and get some gti clocks and harness getting pricey 037105273c would any flywheel with this part number work seen one from a 2014 Skoda Fabia 1.6d with clutch pressure plate 102497403, I have an 02j box coming from a Skoda Octavia vrs
if it comes with the flywheel I dont see any reason why it wouldn't work, but I would just buy a new sachs kit while its apart. VR6 is the strongest factory kit and should do you fine unless you have some really big high torque plans
I’ve had some goodies come this week corrado pedal box, retrofiction dbw pedal adaptor bracket very nice piece. My Audi tt pedal. Gearbox and linkage should arrive tomorrow. I’ve bought a set of gti clocks from eBay with a harness incase the cl harness is missing some pins. Should be here next week hopefully. Think I’ll change over the odometers so I have my “low mileage” one on the gti cluster, make me feel better about. Oh yeah the flywheel came not matching the part number in description or the pictures, the seller seems to be giving me the cold shoulder so think I’m stuck with a new piece of scrap gotta love eBay. Plan is to get the gearbox and engine in then work out where I need to join the harnesses and then take it all out again to clean everything up before it goes in for good.
I’ve got my gti clocks and fitted them, didn’t change the odometer over from my cl clocks in the end, the mph needle didn’t want to come off and not worth breaking it. Theirs a little bit of a scratch in the bottom left corner of the front which is annoying. I’ve swapped out the 110mm cups on the 02j gearbox to some 100mm ones, does anyone know the torque setting for the centre Allen head bolt I had a read on forums and people are saying 25 or 40nm by the looks of it. I’ve set it at 40with some thread lock. the clutch master cylinder is in I didnt want to pay the price of a rhd corrado one, so I went on vw heritage and they have lhd ones in stock and said you can make them work for rhd cars, I cut a thread into the master cylinder bolts holes put some m8 threaded bar in, nuts on the pedal box side, Seems to be fine. Cutting the hole in the firewall was more nerve racking then the last time I had to do it to my old mk2 but all in and looks fine. I should have what I need now ish I’m missing Flywheel annoying because I should have one if only eBay breakers yard hadn’t sent the wrong one. Clutch Down pipe going to get trackslag one I think Intercooler set up I’ve not looked into to much yet I’m Sure theirs a million other things I’ve not discovered I need yet but going to give the bank a rest and get in what I’ve already got.
no need to mess with the speedo needle, just change the entire speedo head over. only difference with cl is the VSS hole on the back is blanked, you just lever out the plastic plug and swpa the GTI sender over
