Another project I don't need

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Lukeybabes, Jun 5, 2015.

  1. Lukeybabes Forum Member

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2012
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    Been doing a few little bits preparing for the ME7.5 ecu swap.

    In order to swap it over I need to add a flange in the intercooler piping for the pressor sensor, swap over to the later style injectors, make a mount for the Drive by wire throttle pedal, swap the throttle body and all the later sensors, add brake and clutch switches, install the VVT cam chain tensioner and fit the K03s turbo for now. Will make plenty enough power with a remap too.

    I've got the flange for the pressure sensor that I will get welded to the piping

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    They make a conversion kit for the later style injectors into the AGU inlet because they are shorter. But for £70 I thought I would just make it work by lowering the fuel rail. I cut the mounts off and welded them back on 11mm lower. Perfect.

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    Stripped down the engine I bought for the ECU stuff to sell off the bits I don't need and that weren't damaged. The belt was shredded and split down the middle. All the exhaust valves were bent and 1 inlet valve. Which doesn't really make sense to me. How can only one inlet be bent when all the exhausts were? Only some little marks on the pistons too so I would say it's reusable.

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    Also bought myself a christmas present. Gonna have to roll the rear arches now though for that stance. :thumbs:

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    Sirguydo and cupracraig like this.
  2. Lukeybabes Forum Member

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2012
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    Been a while since updating this thread so let's do an update.

    I've removed all the wiring for the AGU management and all the related sensors and installed all the new style sensors. Wideband lambda, knock sensors, and added the intake pressure sensor into the intercooler piping (Welded by AIP welding supplies in Bridgwater). The rest of the sensors seem to have the same part numbers so left them. Like the coolant temp, crank position, cam position, intake air temp

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    Had to add the VVT solenoid. It just replaces the cam chain tensioner and will work like it would in the ARY engine. The 2 inlet cams had different part numbers but looked identical. So thought I might as well put the one in from the ARY engine to make sure the base timing marks aren't slightly different.

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    Next was the drive by wire throttle body and pedal install, The throttle body was easy and it just bolted on but the pedal was a bit of a meal. Had to measure how all the pedals sat in their original positions so it could replicate the positions on the bench. I was planning on making some brackets to use microswitches for the clutch and brake pedal switches but I figured out I could just use the oem switches from the Audi TT with a tiny modification to the mk2 clutch switch hole. And the brake switch fit straight in with the correct spacing to reach the pedals etc.
    But I would have still had to do a lot of the measuring to get the electronic throttle pedal in the same place as the original one.

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    Luckily for me I had previously replaced the security bolts on the column for normal ones, so came out easy. And very happy with the accel pedal position now. Even stops on the mk2 pedal stopper. But will have to check on vagcom once it's all wired up if I'm getting full pedal travel.

    Next was installing the K03s turbo as it came with the ARY engine and looks like it had been replaced recently. Zero play in it at all. Once I had removed the manifold and k03 turbo I found cracks in both of them. Hadn't noticed any blowing though. Turbo was cracked in the normal place for these (around the wastegate, can just about see it in the picture) but wasn't expecting the manifold to be cracked. I grabbed the one off of the ARY engine to replace it and that one had a small crack in one of the bolt holes too. Luckily I had another spare from the second AGU engine I bought and that one was crack free. It pays to hoard parts lol.
    Fitted the K03s with all new crush washers and oem gaskets.

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    Got the ECU back from getting the immobiliser removed and having a flash map put on it, should be around 220-230. Also had the n112/j299 delete, n249 delete, n80 delete, rear O2 delete, and the rpm limit raised to 7200rpm

    While the turbo was out and out the way I decided to redo the front brake lines as I made a mistake making them the first time by coming in from the bottom at the brackets in the wheel wells, When they should come in, loop and come in from the top. Noticed I was pulling on the braided lines when I was messing with the suspension the last time.

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    Bought a bracket from a polo for the OBD port as I just had it hanging before. 6n0972559 If anyone wants one. Like £3.50 from VW

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    1.8T_mk2 likes this.
  3. Lukeybabes Forum Member

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2012
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    Had to roll the rear arches for the new wheels. Probably wouldn't of had to if I didn't have a mk3 golf rear beam but ah well. Stancey boy now. In the before and after pictures the wheel is jacked up and lifting the car off of the axle stands. So got a little more room for corners. But I did find some rust while rolling. Where a previous owner had just fillered over it. But its covered by the plastic arch so not that worried atm. Maybe fix in the future. I chucked some rust converter and some paint over it for now.

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    And lastly a garage mod. Bought a dishwasher to use as a parts cleaner. £10 on facebook marketplace haha. And I'm really impressed. Intensive pan cleaning cycle with a normal dishwasher tab and a little caustic soda and the parts came out mint.

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    And that's where I am now, Just need to do the wiring for the Me7.5 conversion now which wont take very long. Got it all mapped out already.
     
    1.8T_mk2 likes this.
  4. cupracraig

    cupracraig Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    South West
    Nice work Luke, going to be good when done
     

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