any active members into mega/microsquirt?

okay...so what should i set it at please or how do i figure it out

also any idea on 8v cranking speed please

 

cranking speed should be a few hundred above your fast cranking speed (150rpm ?) and a few hundred below your lowest idle speed.
500 or 600 is fine.

trigger angle offset will be more tricky..

do you have laptop with tuner studio instaled ?
does your TS communicate with your microsquirt ecu ?
do you have a timing light ?

 

i have tuner studio installed

ecu /wiring is being done as we speak and yes i have a light

i understand i need to match up the figure i see on the laptop once running, but need a number to punch in for the first start

 

I'm not familiar with your engine, but I guess it uses the same trigger wheel inside distributor with equally sized vanes and gaps, if so I'd use "trigger return" mode.

trigger return mode "sees" both edges of each vane, the first edge tells the ecu that the crank is in particular distance from TDC (trigger angle) , the second edge is used while cranking and tells the ecu it is time to fire the spark. you have to position the distributor so the second edge passes thru hall sensor when the crank is in your desired cranking advance position (5-10°bTDC) .
your engine has 5°bTDC timing mark under timing belt cover ? so I would use 5° cranking advance and confirm with timing light (injectors disconnected , spark plugs removed).

 

right folks

its on

cranks and no start , pump primes

tried to set the timing to fixed and use a timing light while cranking ...i get 2 flashes over like 10-15 secs cranking ?

boxes along bottom of screen light up green for cranking and ready , inj pulse width dial goes to 9

temp senders and tps added

 

can you post datalog and toothlog of attempted start ?
you better remove spark plugs and disable injection for now to save your battery and engine..

 

i can try if i can find out how

im on the free version, do i just hit start logging and the crank the car some? then i guess i need to host it ?

will pull the plugs thanks

 

free version is ok.

just hit START LOGGING, confirm or edit file mane, press SAVE, crank the engine for few seconds , hit STOP LOGGING.

then open Diagnostic & high speed loggers, select Composite logger, tick Capture to log file, confirm or edit file name, START, crank the engine, STOP.

upload both files.

you can also pull the HT lead from middle of distibutor cap, place it close to cylinder head and watch if you see any spark during cranking..

 

okay will give it a try..might be a few days until i reply
thank you

 

ok i have saved some cranking ..how do i share with you

 

dropbox or any file hosting ?

 

8v MegaSquit base spark settings.
Most folk are unable to set up the base configuration settings from scratch. I knew about engines, enough to know what settings to expect when I set up MS calibrations, for 8v, 16v, 20v and VR6 engines back in the day.

Whilst I choose not to just give that skill away, if you show willingness, I will attempt to help.

I am not going to sit by and watch you suffer pigbladder.

Here are some of basic settings you need to enter for the spark set up, to get your 8v dizzy engine running.
There were from my old 8v MS 1 ver 3 pcb 3A MK2.
Clearly I knew what I was doing from the start of this project and knew how to come up with the settings.
I hold no responsibility if you blow up your engine from these settings, so use as a guide.

Using TunerStudio

Go to spark and see the drop down menu.



Make sure the "Stim for wheel is set off".
You are not a rotary, so that sub function can be ruled out.


Ignition options/Wheel Decoder.



Next Spark Settings.


My global advance was tweaked to 4 degs over the course of time, you might want to begin with "0".
Crank angle can be knocked back to 10 deg of advance for you.

However the next step may involve some temporary alterations to the fixed angle to move forward.

Next the spark table.
Here you really need to know what you are doing.

As any spark table is a job that takes quite some some time to match the hardware, involving many miles of road tuning and the odd WOT check on the dyno, I will not post my complete spark table.
I will post some of it to get you going.


Above is my spark table from that 8v car. Developed over some long time, before the car was given to my other half as a daily driver.
You can write these values to your spark map to get the car fired up to 2000 rpm.

Before validating , Set to the fixed angle from the previous picture to anything positive other than "-10" .
Set the engine to have a fast idle to say 1500 rpm.

Use an advance timing light to achieve the "fixed angle". You might need to rotate the dizzy.

With that step done, set the fixed angle back to -10 to use the map settings above. If there are no corrections, for a given MAP and Engine speed, you should achieve what is in the cell on a timing light.
You can try re-writing a chuck of boxes where the engine is running, to say "10". The timing light should align.

Spark table selection.
This should be set to the default of "spark table 1"



Idle Advance - use the map for know so leave at -10

Dwell to be set as below for a TCI-h system.




Idle corrections for IAT and CLT. For now you might want to switch off.




That should help you for now.

Regards

Ed.

 

thanks very much for taking the time to write all that out , will digest it and report back soon

 

distributor msns - not seeing that?

dwell duty ? where mine shows 50 is that what i set to 75? screens arent the same

 

Toyotec's screenshots are from MS1 so little bit confusing now.

pigbladder : you have to confirm your coil is powered and working.
I'd bin the ignition amplifier module and drive the coil directly from MS by BIP373, it is simple and predictable..

 

I have built installed and mapped over 100 MS units for members of this forum and still run them in two cars.

I stated the screenshots were from one of my old cars which ran a MS1 , however the set up information will be the same for a MS2, Emerald, DTA, OMEX or any other SEM, based on the hardware used.

You DO NOT have to run BIP373 for an 8v engine as the TCI-h is pretty bomb proof as an ignition amplifier. This is the beauty of knowing the hardware which you are attempting to control.
The TCI-h runs fixed duty as it controls dwell to the coil on the car internally.

 

Email me the calibration and I will set the configuration up for you.

 

The cut off a "Crank state" on an 8v or 16v is 350 rpm.

 

Those members who wish to use the more popular MS2 on 8v stock hardware use these settings as a guide.

Go to Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options.



Set up the screen as so.



By default, fixed duty to your TCI-h in this case will be applied from 50 degs BTDC, more than enough max advance, required on an 8v. at any condition.

3 other tables to look at, the ignition table, you can transpose what I shared from the MS1 2.0 8v into that with the breakpoints and the MAT and CLT tables.

For CLT, the maximum advance when the engine is at the coldest @ -40 deg C, can be set to 7 deg CA ADV and ~ 2 degs CA ADV at 20 to 30 deg C. When the engine is at 70 degs and beyond 0 deg CA ADV.
For MAT, begin to retard timing, from 40 deg C 1 deg CA RET , 50 deg C 2.5 deg CA RET, 80 deg C, 7 dg CA RET.

That would be it for ignition config.

You globally offset the overall timing, like slackening the dizzy, by simply entering an adv or ret value on the Trigger Wizard or Trigger offset which is set at "0" to start with.

Hope that helps.

Ed.

 

eddie ,2swe im happy to say it now starts and almost idles

need to read up on matching the timing its miles out and not enough room to match it via moving the dizzy, so will go away and read about that

thanks alot...cheered me up a bit that its working now