Battery Drain now dash/engine is dead but all other electical systems are working

Discussion in 'Jetta/Vento/Bora' started by rtartaglia, Jun 17, 2016.

  1. rtartaglia New Member

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    Hi all

    I'm hoping someone can help me. I've tried searching for the answer but no joy.

    I have a 1995 2.0l Vento GL.

    I have been having problems with battery drain if I leave it for a few days it will be dead. I have tried to find the fault but I'm coming up with nothing. I have done multiply parasitic draw test but I'm only pulling 0.015a when everything is off. Battery is charging as it should even with everything running and switched on I'm still getting 14+v.

    I brought a new battery because I couldn't find any draw. I fitted at the weekend and by Thursday it was dead. I completed another parasitic draw test last night and still the same readings.

    I removed every fuse one at a time and still nothing to cause and big draw.

    This is where I now have major problems. Once I had put everything back together I went to start the car and nothing.

    I did some testing and below is what I have found.


    Battery is good
    All lights turn on
    When I turn the key the heater blower turns on.
    I get no warning lights on the dash....battery oil and anything else that comes on @ first turn of ignition.
    I cant start the car at all.

    It is like a dead battery to the engine but all other electrical systems work find.

    If anyone can help me it would be amazing.

    Thanks
     
  2. twolitrepinto Forum Member

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    0.15a is nothing. Are you sure the battery is dead after a few days? May just be giving symptoms of dead battery. I would be checking main earth's are good.
     
  3. blis Forum Member

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    Dual posts... same response.. ;)
     
  4. rtartaglia New Member

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    It is a duel post I just want as many views as possible.

    Yes the battery is completely dead, no dash clock or anything.

    Blis

    What is the voltage when engine is running?

    14.4 engine running. 14.1 when every accessory is on.

    How often are you driving with lights on?

    Not very often. I normally drive it work and home. I've been using my summer car recently which is why I've started noticing the battery drain.

    Have you cleaned and checked your earth/ground/neg connection?

    I haven't I will check tonight.

    The main problem is not being able to get the car started at the moment. I'm not sure why all switched lives works but not other dash warning lights come on or why engine is dead and doesn't even attempt to turn over. I turn the key hear a relay click but nothing else. not fuel pump prime or anything.



    .015 amp is very low, open door and with interior light on, it should be closer to 1amp, than 15 milliamps, if not you are getting false readings. I may have been 0.15am

    Yes when I open a door it goes up to 0.5amps
     
  5. blis Forum Member

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    I hope the earth fixes it, most systems, short of lights and starter motor can operate at low current. Do the headlights lights power on brightly?

    Ps.. .15amp sounds more reasonable

    Pps.. no fuel pump?

    Rubjonny might come to the rescue then...

    it doesnt make sense that 150 milliamp will drain a new battery in a few days.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2016
  6. rtartaglia New Member

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    Right I've just given up for the night because it too dark now. I have checked loads of things and came across a plug that wasn't in anything. I traced it back to an immobilizer. The immobilizer is a conlog vag part number is 998vag690. It has 3 plugs going to it one red plug one black one and a harness with 8 wires going into it. When I unplug it I get my dash lights back on, fuel pump primes but still won't start. Any help much appreciated.
     
  7. twolitrepinto Forum Member

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    Is this an aftermarket immobilizer? if so rip it out and join all original wires back together
     
  8. rtartaglia New Member

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    I think its a dealer fit optional extra. I pulled most of it out apart from one wire. This goes to a blue/black wire on the ignition switch that if I disconnect turns my dash lights off again.

    I have managed to get the car running by hotwiring it. Not a long term solution.

    I've got the kids to play with so will have another crack later when they have gone to bed.

    Will update you later on what else I find.
     
  9. twolitrepinto Forum Member

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    i believe all mk3's will have a factory immobiliser (may be wrong). which means hotwiring would not work unless the key is in the ignition or close to the transponder.

    if it runs with it bypassed, this is likely not a factory system.
    not sure on the blue/black wire but will have a quick look on RJ's fusebox FAQ see what i can find out.
     
  10. twolitrepinto Forum Member

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    Cant find anything about a blue/black on the ignition switch.. [:s]
     
  11. rtartaglia New Member

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    No I couldnt either who ever fitted it has done a really good job. Does RJ have anything on the ignition switch?
     
  12. twolitrepinto Forum Member

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    yes i had a look through a PDF on his VAG docs (click the link in his sig)
    it was under golf 3 basic equipment or something.
    i found ignition switch wiring and there is no mention of blue/black. where does this blue/black wire go off to?
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its probably the main ignition live from pin 15, just blue/black due to the alarm installation. if so its a case of unplug your alarm/immob wirign and run the wire from 15 straight to the fusebox and job done. then find the alarm/immob brain and strip the lot out -> bin
     

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