Hi, After reading a lot on here the last few months I started my own 2.0 conversion. The car is a Mk2 Edition One 1990 with PF engine. Car was bought in a sorry state in june, meanwhile it is running good but I want more grunt in low and midrange. So I started looking around and found a 2E engine with trans and wiring loom. Don't need the injection but my buddy could use it so I bought it. Then: My dad wet to pick it up, and as soon as it got home I discovered it was an ADY block. Searched the net, ADY engine should work too, but is rarely mentioned in the 2L conversion threads. A PB head that I bought is now being reconditioned and should be as good as new soon. With my arm being broken, work is proceeding very slow, but no stress, the 1.8 is still running fine (215.000 miles approx). Already done: Parts ordered: cam belt, 2E dizzy, acc belts, new waterpump, gasket kit, head bolts, new clutch disc, new seals for trans, ... Upon arrival: State of the engine now: Bare engine, pistons cleaned. Block painted, ready to start putting stuff back on... Next steps: Get head back and on the engine put new conrod bearings in start assembling the engine get trans seals replaced + new clutch Finish complete engine get old engine out of car put Digifant and exhaust on ADY engine get it running in the car Need to find out: Which exhaust? (there is a race collector on the PF engine in 60 mm, continued by a 50mm orig spec exhaust. Is a cam worth it, or wait till later ? Procedure for tightening head gasket on ADY engine?? (few different versions floating on the interwebs)
None of your pictures work some how? ADY and 2E would be the same as fitting a 3A engine into a MK2 Golf. Just that those engines are taller than a 3A Audi engine. If the PB cylinder head is being used, that would help to simply the installation. Your only challenge is the breather system and if the engine is an ADY, which uses a crank trigger, you will need a 2E or 3A distributor.
2e distributor bought Pb head back from reconditioning and installed. Breather will be something to work our, but not too difficult I think. I will keep the ADY breather wilt black plastic box on rocker cover and see from there... Waiting for crank sealclutch sde and then i'll continue the build. Weird thos pictures, can't see them either...
With the breather issue what I did was swap the isv and breather connections over, I used a bit of plastic tubing robbed and cut down off a mk3 golf pushed into where the isv fitting used to go then the std mk3 breather pushed straight on. the isv pipe just needed cuttign down a touch then it fitted right on the old breather outlet. I also kept the mk3 metal coolant pipe and rubber hoses on the block and heater matrix along with the front flange as its all much neater than the mk2 routing, blocked the outlet off on the rad with a bolt pushed into a length of old mk2 thin pipe. pics here about half way down: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?85893
The engine is finished, transplant should start somewhere this week. The timing has been done on the engine.I've got a PB head on ADY block. Whent the crank pulley is 100% correct on the timing mark on the plastic timing belt housing, the camshaft OT mark is slightly of. About half a tooth on the cam pulley. I'll post pics later. I remember when I did the timing belt on the PF, everything was spot on.... If reinstalled everything but it's the same. Any help out there? Thanks
get the gearbox installed then use the flywheel marker rather than the crank pulley its more accurate, plus the outer part of the 2.0 crank pulley can slip out of alignment over time. I worked on a MK3 where the crank pulley mark was 90 degrees out! best to confirm piston 12 is at TDC by shining a torch down #1 spark plug hole
OK, I'll try that. I guess I was so focused on the timing marks on the pulleys that I didn't look at the flywheel!
Worked on the engine a bit yesterday. When looking at the timing mark on the flywheel, this is what i get: At this point I can set the cam to: The I turn the crank a couple of times and I get this: It's not exactly in the middle anymore, but maybe I am being a bit too stressed about this? Second question: This is an ADY block with PB head that I am building. The gearbox is the MK3 that I am keeping, flywheel and clutch also. Since I'll be running Digifant injection of the PF engine, I need to set dizzy at 6 Before TDC The marks on the flywheel are: This (for VW special tool I am told): This, TDC I believe: NO 6 mark found on the flywheel...
yeah the timing marks are close enough, the smallest unit of movement you have is 1 tooth either way and its out way less than that so its all good this is what you should see on a MK2 flywheel, diamond is BTDC: I guess you have the MK3 flywheel on there, if so that is probably why as the AGG/ADY don't have any adjustment possible for the ignition timing its all ECU controlled. You can either fit a MK2 16v clutch kit and 1.8 GTI 8v/16v flywheel, use a timing light with an advance dial built in set to 6 degrees, or make your own mark using the EV measurement:
Thanks rubjonny, I do have the mk3 flywheel on there since I am keeping the gearbox. I could reinstall mk2 flywheel, I think both are 210 clutch discs. I kept the MK" flywheel since it was as good as new. I cannot see your pics, what is this ev measurement? Thx Peter
fixed now, .for whatever reason my host redirection from no-ip.com has broken this morning! before you swap parts over check your flywheel, if it only has 1 locating dowel its late mk3 type and a mk2 flywheel wont fit the pressure plate you have. The clutch friction disc can be kept though if its in good nick just the mk2 pp and fly differ in fitment
My flywheel is the late mk3 type, could only be fitted in 1 position. Gearbox is already on the engine, I'll use the EV measurement. I can always count the number of teeth on the flywheel and then calculate how many degrees one tooth is. I'll be the Mc Gyver of timing marks.
Does anyone know how many teeth there are on a Mk" 2.0L 8V ADY flywheel? I have counted 125 on an online pic, can anyone confirm? Thank You
For your pictures in your first post: remove the s in httpS and it should work! Bij die andere vragen kan ik niet helpen
Since this weekend: work in progress Old 1.8 engine out 2.0L waiting to get in: While I am working on it, put another steering rack in (had a leak) and finally the 280 brakes got mounted. Waiting for the new mounts and a breather hose to continue work. Biggest challenge up till now: getting the big 30mm bolt loose on the drive shafts. Had to us some serious farming power tools to get them off... Keep you posted.
aye can be tight. dragged my old 1.6 up a high kerb trying to do one in the past My way to do it is proper 6 sided impact socket on a long breaker bar and 'bounce' up and down on the breaker to shock it loose. the bar has to be a good one though, I snapped my ebay special bar using this method
The engine wass installed last night. Once the engine was in, I connected everything. However, car won't start Fuel pump primes ok. Fuel gets to the rail. Engine cranks fine. Does not start. Spark seems ok. However, no fuel smell, plugs completely dry when removed after cranking several times. Somehow, injectors are not injecting. After some attempts, my father sprayed some brake cleaner in the airbox opening. Car immediately ran, and idled nicely for about 30 seconds. Then my father turned it off, since then it wouldn't start again. So, timing and spark are ok I guess ( it ran perfectely for 30 seconds) it just isn't getting any fuel. What should I check? When i first got the car, it had several injection issues, but it always injected fuel. It was late so I left the car in the workshop. Something is telling me it will be something stupid, but I don't know what... Any help would be appreciated. For reminder Ady 2.0 block Pb head and cam Stock digifant injection TA technix exh manifold 2e dizzy (new)
I am wondering if the car was running on fuel or brake cleaner when it ran yesterday. It started up after spraying brake cleaner in airbox. Then it idled for 30 seconds, was it running that long on the brake cleaner or somehow it started injecting fuel? My father turned it off because he saw smoke, but that was some grease on the manifold heating up. It was really running fine and no sign of stalling when he cut the engine. How much brake cleaner would a 2.0 need to idle 30 seconds?