Building the ultimate 8v engine

Discussion in '8-valve' started by kiwgti, Oct 27, 2005.

  1. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Solid lifter conversion then Tim? Which lifters did you use - cossie?

    I notice there's a GS6 for sale in the classifieds... wouldn't buy a used cam without seeing good pics though...
     
  2. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    Same as me, but the ones interested should ask for them.. As I say in most of my classified ads.. "PM me for more info" :thumbup:
     
  3. mitlom

    mitlom Forum Member

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    Yes Mike, the followers are Supertech ones that I got at the same time as getting my Supertech valves and springs from the US. My x-flow head is an ABA OBD1 head from the US so it has the double valve springs and no swirl feature so a better starting point than the AFT head....only downside is they were only available in the US and are like rocking horse poo to find :(

    If anyone is seriously interested in a GS6 mine is brand spanking new and still in the Kent Cams packaging and will be up for grabs if I go for a JMR 'special' profile ;)
     
  4. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    While pondering GS6's I remember speccing the cam my fancy race (flat: EG) head was going to use to the outfit doing the porting. Result was an eye watering amount for pukka pies schrick springs. Remember 12mm and up is in the realms of coilbound on std springs....
     
  5. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Yup - planning to measure the springs. Cam supplier Nellis tells me that the VW polo cup cars ran the same cam on standard springs (which are singles on the X-flow) without issues. Race engines tend to get rebuilt quite often though! Plan B is to pick up some springs from CatCams I think. I generally need to have a lie down whenever I look at the Schrick price list.
     
  6. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    I paid the cash....................it hurt... springs are good for 13mm as I remember
     
  7. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Well, at least you only needed 8 of them [:D]
     
  8. mitlom

    mitlom Forum Member

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    These are the Supertech springs I've got.....

    Part Number - SPR-V2091/4
    Outer Spring - O.D. - 30.40mm / I.D. - 23.20mm
    Inner Spring - O.D. - 21.90mm / I.D. - 16.50mm
    Max Lift - 14mm
    Coil Bind - 19mm
    Rate - 11.20 lbs/mm
     
  9. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    LOL. Supertech spec looks good. I have some supertech valves for the 20V project on the bench
     
  10. mitlom

    mitlom Forum Member

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    :thumbup: I've got Supertech valves going in my x-flow as well....in fact I have two sets of springs and two sets of valves.....as I'm greedy and have two of the heads I mentioned..........lol

    The first head is going to be running 40IN / 33EX and I'll keep you guessing about the 2nd one ;)
     
  11. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Get building Jon! lol
     
  12. mark25 Forum Junkie

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    You can't set up the cam timing on an 8v!!!! It's also pretty awkward and unprecies on the VW 16v.... For proper engine tuning you're better off with another motor, unless you're stuck with reg's, or want to limit yourself in that way for another reason, that is.
     
  13. nut 20v

    nut 20v CGTI Regional Host - Birmingham & Midlands

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    Just a quick one ive bought a 2.0 mk 4 golf took the plastic cover off it looks single cam is this right and can it be used for crossflow?
     
  14. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Maybe standard you cant set it, but you can when building race type motors. What I was getting at is that you only have only dial gauge measuring full lift and adjusting it for the crank degrees. The VW 16V with the interconnecting chain and second internal adjustable chain wheel (non std) is tricky. Agree, there are better engines out there, but I am sticking with EG's/9A/KR's and ABF's
     
  15. TonyB Paid Member Paid Member

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    I know I've got a set in mine, inc caps and plates (with Cosworth lash caps)! Luckily for me came with the original engine. The Schrick 320 cam I'm running at the moment has 12.9mm of lift.

    The Spiess F3 I had that I lent to Jason to have a measure up of had 14.9mm of lift!

    Interesting to see what these cross flows give, I've got a couple here but not done anything with them yet other than give one to Jason to cut up to see what can be done with customers heads. Reckon a 2.0ltr should give at least 235bhp as opposed to the 225bhp that the non cross flow can give, from what I can tell.

    How do you find the new 16v as opposed to the 8v's Jon? People who have gone over always seems to miss the torque of the 8v no matter what the dyno's show. How have you found yours?
     
  16. mitlom

    mitlom Forum Member

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    It's more a case of if it has a x-flow head on the engine....from memory that engine does :thumbup:
     
  17. mitlom

    mitlom Forum Member

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    All things going well we should know in the next few months what mine will produce Tony......plan is to have engine and car finished ready for Santa Pod on the 1st June ;)
     
  18. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    I started on 1600 EG's as the rallycross classes in mid to early 90's had a cracking class with 20-30 regulars. Went 2L16V fullrace (longman, 48's, 300's) in the late 90's , based on a 2L8V block with timing end modded to suit KR belt system. (2L16V engines were too dear in those days). That motor eventually let go (long story) twice and I started to build an ABF 2006 is.
    In parallel with this my tarmac car and rallycross mk1 would swap engines now again. A flirtation with Luminition ITB was tried for a year. blah blah.
    Anyway, I like both engines and find the challenge is to extract as much as possible (racing/rallying) from what I have got. I could get to the point of having the 1900 8V absolutely flat out (rallycross...) where there was literally nothing more to come. The 2L16V (s) was more of a challenge..
     
  19. mark25 Forum Junkie

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    What I was getting at is that what you've listed as an advantage, is what i see as a handicap.
     
  20. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    mark25: not sure I understand you. 8V timing : one dial gauge on no 1 inlet. crank degree wheel. find full lift after TDC. check against cam spec. adjust pulley. 16V : same for the exhaust cam, then you have to adjust the inlet cam seperately, and disassembling the whole lot to move a tooth sprocket is a pain

    New 16V: rollers say its doing 50 more hp than the 8v and 20 ftlb more. Know what you mean about feel, as they both feel quick. I go to the rollers for two reasons; to make sure the fuelling is right and to make sure we have the best timing. that's it. I would love to have the time/money/resource to play more but I have other constraints, like everyone else. One day I will buy my own set.

    That little sprint I did recently was its first outing, and looking back I was grabbing gears every couple of seconds so I think it must be quickish.
     

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