CE1--> ABF splicing of looms Help :(

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Patttt, Mar 27, 2012.

  1. Patttt New Member

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    I've read toyotecs guide, rubjonnys faq's and many MANY thread posts, but I just can't seem to get my head around the wiring. I've already paid RJ for his wiring services (yet to send the looms off) as I thought i'd have a go as he's backed up until end of may to do my loom.


    When I've clicked on various wiring diagram links they've all been dead, so I've been trying to get my head around the fusebox FAQ as a guide. I think I'm just being dense!


    I'm currently stuck with this (MK3 ABF loom & Mk2 CE1 gti loom)
    IMG_0907.jpg


    It's driving me nuts! There's so many extra plugs on the mk3 loom I don't even know where to start. I know I should probably admit defeat but I'd like to understand it all really..


    Any help is greatly appreciated!!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 23, 2018
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    CE2 -> CE1 conversion:
    F:
    1 - ignore - starter motor, use original CE1 wire
    3 - ignore - alternator, use original CE1 wire
    5 - C/18 or splice to CE1 starter wire - cranking live to ECU
    6 - ignore - reverse lights, use original CE1 wire
    7 - ignore - reverse lights, use original CE1 wire
    8 - earth to claw/ce1 white spade block - earth for lambda probe heater

    G1
    2 - ignore - outside temp sensor for mfa, use original CE1 outside temp sensor wiring if you have MFA clocks
    3 - D/13 - fuel relay earth trigger
    4 - coil power - see notes
    5 - crimp female spade on if you have MFA, plug to MFA clck earth on clock loom. ignore if non-mfa
    7 - ecu relay switch on delay - can wire to ECU relay, see notes
    8 - E/14 - lambda probe heater power, may have a relay on it, see notes
    10 - ecu relay power - wire to ecu relay, see notes
    11 - ignore - speedometer sender
    12 - rev counter - see notes

    G2
    1 - oil temp sensor for mfa, crimp a female spade on it and pop to plug on dash loom if you have MFA clocks
    2 - ignore - use original CE1 outside temp sensor wiring if you have MFA clocks
    3 - D/29 - dash temp
    4 - D/2 or 7, or G spade 2 or 5 - ignition live for ECU and ISV
    10 - D/21 - oil pressure switch
    11 - D/1 - oil pressure switch

    S plug, bin and keep CE1 wiper wires

    Single wires:
    grey/white - diagnostics, see notes

    purple/white - mpg signal -> bin

    blue/white - VSS signal to ECU, doesnt seem to make any difference but if you have MFA clocks often theres a yellow/white wire on the clock harness or to radio you can tap it to that

    red with big yellow spade plug housing -> trim the lock clip off the side and fit it to N on CE1 fusebox

    Coil wiring:
    What I do here is convert the ABF to run a MK1/2 coil & TCI unit, as generally they are more reliable. To start with keep black D/23 coil power and red/black D/26 rev counter wires as they are. You can use your old tci + coil loom if you have one, otherwise any mk1/2 with electronic ignition will have what you need. For the coil itself check inside the king lead hole, if its plain then bin it. You need a later electronic ignition coil from MK2 or MK1 cabrio or scirocco. These have a pin inside the king lead hole to suit for the ABF plug leads.

    Chop the 3 pin plug off the ABF coil, bin off black and brown wires and pull the green/red wire back towards the ECU plug. Chop the dizzy plug off the MK1/2 tci-coil loom and peel the rubber boot back off the TCI plug, keep the wire which goes to pin 6 and bin off the other 2. Drop the TCI loom on top of the ABF loom so it all sits where it needs to be, splice the wire from tci pin 6 to the red/green wire from the mk3 coil plug.

    Plug the green and/or red/black wires to the coil negative, black wires to coil positive. There is a long wire from the TCI this goes to the battery negative.

    ECU relay:
    I wire a VW relay holder above the fusebox for this, or if you have a digifant CE1 loom you can re-use the black/yellow wire from the R plug and splice this to the G1/10 wire, ignore the G1/7 wire.
    If you want to go for a VW relay holder they take standard 6.3mm latched spades, and if you go for the ABF ECU relay you also need a single 2.8mm latched spade for the smaller 86a terminal. If chopping the holder off a donor car you can keep a load of spare wire from it and splice if you like

    Relay terminal wiring:
    30 - live - P spade
    31/85 - earth to claw or white spade block
    86 - ignition live (see G2/4 notes above)
    86a - ECU relay switch on delay - G1/7
    87 - ECU relay power to ecu - G1/10

    Diagnostics:
    With the grey/white ECU wire this will either run to the vagcom port or diagnostics jumper block direct, or if it has an immobiliser it goes to immobiliser control box then a wire from that to the port.

    Immobiliser box wiring is simple if you manage to pull the lot out the donor without cutting. It has a black wire which needs ignition live, see G2/4 above. The 2 browns need earthing, then there's 1 wire to ECU above and another wire to the diagnostics jumper block

    For vagcom port try to drag the lot out of a MK3 donor complete, plus the jumper block on the fusebox makes life easier. You can snip the red/white and brown off the mk3 loom where they tap to the main harness, try to get the grey/white without cutting. the yellow isn't needed so feel free to cut that if its tangled but generally you don't need to.

    Port wiring:
    4 - earth
    7 - ecu/immobiliser/diagnostics jumper
    16 - live

    On the MK3 the live and earth are spliced to the ciggy lighter, so feel free to do the same :thumbup:

    Fuel pump/lambda wiring:
    If your car is a factory GTI or you have access to a donor GTI to strip the rear wiring loom out of, great, life is easy, crimp female spade on G1/8 and plug it into the male spade on E/14. If not, then you'll want to run 2 wires to E/14, one feeds the fuel pump and the other crimp a male spade on it for the G1/8 wire. Ideally use latched spades so you can use proper spade housings, this insulates the spades so no chance of a short (or insulation tape works)

    If your ABF is an early one it will have a relay holder tapped into the lambda power feed from G1/8, you can keep it if you like. But when I make the looms I bin it off so its like a late ABF setup and run the lambda probe wire direct to E/14. The relay holder would be handy to re-use for your ECU relay ;)


    You can get the large and small CE1 pins from polevolt or farnell, if you want to make a nice loom up without spliced joints but you need decent crimp tools. The small CE1 pins are real fiddly to remove without a good release tool, but luckily these are available and quite cheap too:
    https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/fusebox-plug-pin-removal-tool-16572-p.asp

    large pins are easy just need a thin screwdriver or pick tool, lever in the 2 tabs and out they come.

    See here for more info on fusebox connections:
    https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/

    if you get stuck, post up here or msg me :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2019
  3. Patttt New Member

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    Okay so you've both been brilliant help!

    I've cut off the 3 main yellows plugs (A1,2 & C i think) And various other wiring from following your post on the Mk1 forum RJ. I've also been linking up wiring as guided by Ben.


    So I have a few plugs I'm unsure of as I wasn't sure that the colours were the same as some mentioned in that Mk1 thread, these being;

    2 pin- Blu/red & brown/red

    2 pin- white/green & brown/green

    3 pin- red/yellow & red/white & Red

    2 pin- (both) green/grey

    2 pin- green/black & green/brown

    2 pin- green/white & blue/white (the plug itself is green)

    8 pin- grn/blk & red/yellow & grn/brwn & grn/red & blk/yellow (there's a few more wires but i thought that would tell you what it is? I know the the yellow/blk wire I've already cut off.)


    Then there's a weird large plug, 3 pinned, red/white & red/grey then with a red +ve battery wire. It's not a normal plug, can get a picture if needed?

    I have no idea if you'll be able to identify the wires from those descriptions, if not I'll get some pics up to match!

    Cheers
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    lighting loom all goes directly in the bin, keep your mk2 lighting loom as per std :thumbup:

    can you get pics of them all just in case but:
    2 pin- Blu/red & brown/red - headlight adjusters?
    2 pin- white/green & brown/green - aircon
    3 pin- red/yellow & red/white & Red - fan thermoswitch
    2 pin- (both) green/grey - aircon
    2 pin- green/black & green/brown - aircon
    2 pin- green/white & blue/white (the plug itself is green) - aircon
    8 pin- grn/blk & red/yellow & grn/brwn & grn/red & blk/yellow - fan controller

    big plug is probably for the fan itself. you can bin off the fan controller and everything that is connected to it, use the mk2 fan wiring in the lighting loom. all the aircon stuff can go too obviously.

    once you strip the abf loom back you should be left with F, G1 and G2 at the fusebox end, plus these singles: grey/white, blue/white, red with a massive spade, purple/white.

    basically if its not connected to the ecu or round plug, it can go directly into the bin!
     
  5. Patttt New Member

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    Pics for you;


    2 pin- Blu/red & brown/red - headlight adjusters?
    IMG_0921.jpg

    2 pin- white/green & brown/green - aircon
    IMG_0929.jpg

    3 pin- red/yellow & red/white & Red - fan thermoswitch
    IMG_0927.jpg

    2 pin- (both) green/grey - aircon
    IMG_0920.jpg

    2 pin- green/black & green/brown - aircon
    IMG_0931.jpg

    2 pin- green/white & blue/white (the plug itself is green) - aircon
    IMG_0923.jpg

    8 pin- grn/blk & red/yellow & grn/brwn & grn/red & blk/yellow - fan controller
    IMG_0925.jpg

    Big plug;
    IMG_0918.jpg

    Also, what's this? (some sort of sensor?)
    IMG_0926.jpg

    & this; 3 pin-
    IMG_0930.jpg

    Cheers!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 28, 2020
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1. coolant level switch, bin
    2. not 100% if aircon but whatever it is -> bin
    3. rad fan thermoswitch -> bin
    4. aircon -> bin
    5. might be side repeator or aircon -> bin
    6. aircon -> bin
    7. fan controller -> bin
    8. fan controller -> bin
    9. abient air temp for aircon -> bin
    10. rad fan -> bin
     
  7. Patttt New Member

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    Thanks again for the help that's narrowed the wiring down substantially!

    Do I need to keep;

    G2/02 (outside air temp sender)
    G1/02 (outside Air Temp Sender Ground)
    I assume not considering as I've already binned the majority of wires connecting to this plug associated with aircon etc?

    F/01 blk/red (Starter, or Starting Interlock Relay, or Clutch Position Switch, or Auto. Trans. Controller) Is this in the mk2 ce1 loom so not needed on the mk3 loom?

    1 pin- Blue wire

    2 pin- red/blk & blu/blk
    IMG_0932.jpg

    Also, you know the large earthing point that has about 9 various earth wires coming to it? I've now only got the main thick one that goes to old ce2 fusebox, and 2 others from various kept plugs. Can I keep this earthing point or is it wise to splice remaining earths into ce1 earthing point? Cheers
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1. outside temp use the old mk2 golf one, this is for the MFA. on the subject of mfa, you'll notice on old mk2 loom there is black/green wire with spade. this is mfa oil temp, so on abf loom cut black/green wire off G2/1 and crimp a spade on it to match mk2 loom :)

    same story as the brown/white wire with a red spade on mk2, this is dash earth. on abf loom this wire is to G1/5 so cut off and pop spade on

    2. this is the starter trigger wire, use the mk2 golf one

    3. alternator trigger, this is in the lighting loom on mk2, if you plan on using mk3 battery cables keep this plug with a good length of wire. crimp a spade on it and pop to the mk2 blue wire plug near battery. then the mk3 end will pop into the mk3 battery cabling.
    though this one wire is damaged so maybe better to get undamaged one from the scrappy.
    if you want to be really poncy like me you can crimp a mk2 ce1 pin on at the fusebox end, and pop it into D/4. then you can get rid of the mk2 blue wire in the lighting loom :)

    4. reverse switch, use mk2 or splice this plug to your loom if you are using mk3 gearbox

    5. what i do is remove the main battery live and earth cables from the mk3 loom. by the time you have deleted everything from the abf loom you dont need you'll end up with 1 cut earth which is for the ecu. what i do is splice this to the mk2 tci unit earth to the battery as part of the conversion to make the abf use the mk2 coil + tci. ive gone into detail on that in the linky i posted earlier, but post up if you need clarification!
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012
  9. Patttt New Member

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    1.) For the alternator trigger, when you say if i plan on using mk3 battery cable plugs, if I'm using a mk3 alternator can I not just splice the mk3 plug onto the mk2 alternator wire? And leave the rest of the mk2 battery wiring as it is?


    2.) With the earth cables, I've removed the main connector where all the earths combine, but you said you were left with just 1 earth? I have 2, one to a connector I've labelled crank sensor, and the other as you say to the ecu?

    3.) F/05 - (Digifant ECU Pin 1, Thermotime Switch (CIS-E)) - Now I'm assuming this is one of the wires that is needed when creating the ECU relay place with spades on one of the top holders on the CE1 fusebox?

    4.) F/08 - (Crankcase Ventilation Heating Element (G60)) This is one of two wires I still have connected to the F plug. It goes the the lambda sensor plug? It's a sort of reddish brown, not the same as an earth. What should be done with this?

    Once I have a good look at the mk2 I'm assuming I can splice in the following wires to existing wiring in the main ce1 engine plug;

    5.) G2/03 - (Coolant Temperature Sending Unit) - splice to mk2 wire

    6.) G2/04 (Knock Control Unit, Oxygen Control Unit, and Throttle Switches (CIS-E), automatic choke and overrun cutoff valve (carb), Heated O2 Sensor (Digijet), Fuel Pump After-Run Control Unit and Crankcase Ventilation Heater (G60)) - Unsure on this one, as two blk/wht wires join to make one that goes to the plug G2, yet one of them I've cut and labelled to get rid of?

    7.) G2/10/11 - These are the high/ low oil pressure I can splice to mk2 wires.

    8.) G1/03 ECU- Fuel Pump Relay Turn-On (gas), Engine Temp Sender (Pre-heat, diesel), thermoswitch for preheat (carb) - Do I need to make a relay holder with appropriate connectors to put this into? I was assuming mk2 loom would already have a wire for this to splice onto?

    9.) G1/04 - (Ignition Coil Pin 15 (Digifant and CIS-E), Motronic ECU Pin 14 and coil power stage Pin 1(Motronic), Altitude Correction and Fuel Cut-Off Valves (diesel)) - I'm assuming I use this in your TCI splicing technique to use the old mk2 coil. (I will get on with that next, I have read it btw, just didn't quite sink in as didn't have the wiring in front of me.)

    10.) G1/07 - (Overrun Cutoff Valve, G60 Difigant ECU Power) - Not needed?

    11.) G1/08 - (Heated Oxygen Sensor Power) - Unsure?

    12.) G1/10 - (Digifant/Digijet ECU Power, Injector Power (1989 only), ISV Power (G60 only)) - Again, assuming this is one of the wires I need to put into the ECU relay socket?

    13.) G1/11 - (Vehicle Speed Sensor) Not needed? I thought it was done via the mk2 coil or something? Fair play if im completely wrong haha.

    14.) G1/12 - Ignition Coil Pin 1 (all Mk2, most others '90 only), ECU tach signal (all 91+ except Mk2) - Assume this is used in your mk2 coil conversion.


    I'm sorry for doing this the long winded way, I just figure if it's all asked and clarified, I won't mistrust my wiring (I do very much as it's my first loom!) Also I thought, it means you can just refer people to this page (as for dummies like me when it comes to wiring, you can just say it's literally all written out).
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    by the sounds of it you are using the a2 resource? if so use my fusebox faq instead its more suitable for euro plus it has specific mk2 and mk3 sections:
    http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=219775

    plus see my sig for g3abfecu.pdf for a complete mk3 abf wiring diagram, and jetta89.pdf for a full pre-90 mk2 diagram :)

    1. its up to you! you could use the mk3 wire from abf loom popped to D/4, or cut a bit off the abf wire and put a spade on it, plug to mk3 alternator cable and mk2 spade. or cut mk2 spade of and splice mk3 wire to it, or splice some wire to mk3 alternator blue wire and put a spade on. whatever you want to do just as long as blue wire gets from mk3 alternator to the fusebox one way or another [:D]

    2. wont be crank sensor, that earths into the sensor common earth. are you sure its not the mk3 coil plug, this one has red/green, black and brown wires. if so cut the brown and black wires out, splice the red/green to mk2 tci pin 6 as per infos above :thumbup:

    3. starter live, if you want it factory there will be a red/black wire behind the fusebox to a spade connection. what I do though is just splice it direct to mk2 starter wire. bare about 5mm of wire on the mk2 cable without cutting the copper, wrap the abf wire round and solder it in place. this means there is less clutter behind the fusebox

    4. this is an earth for the lambda, with this one you can crimp a spade on and run it to the earth claw. what i do is splice it to the chunky brown wire on the mk2 D plug with the brown spade same as above

    5. yep

    6. ign live feed for isv and breather heater, D/2 or D/7 on your mk2 loom

    7. yep

    8. this needs to go to D/13, its the fuel pump relay earth trigger

    9. yeah keep mk2 coil wire. once you cut out the mk3 coil black wire you'll have a thin black wire left over probably, splice this into mk2 coil black wire as per points 3/4 :)

    10. ecu reference live, wire to ecu relay (more info in a bit!)

    11. lambda probe power, this needs fuel pump live. put this wire and the one to Z1 (red wire with massive spade in a yellow plug) into a single spade. note on mk2 engine loom you have red/white wire(s) with a white spade on it, copy that :)

    12. ecu relay power

    13. you dont need this unless you want an electronic speedo, e.g if you fit mk3 cluster

    14. rev counter wire, not needed use the mk2 coil -ve

    dont worry! you have questions we answer that is what forums are all about :thumbup:

    To clarify exactly what to do about the ecu relay first off what is your mk2 right now, is it a k-jet or digifant?
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012
  11. Patttt New Member

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    Yes I've been using the A2 resource for my wiring pins. Does that mean some of the plugs I've mentioned will have been wrong in comparison to your fusebox FAQ? I.e. I'll have cut off wrong plugs? I don't think I have, I think I've possibly just got the coil and crank mixed up. Will double check against your fusebox faq now.

    EDIT; Yep, the one I'd labelled as crank with the earth is infact coil as you said! NOW your mk2 coil conversion makes perfect sense haha woops. So I'm hoping crank is the blu/brown & blk/green & red/yellow!

    I'm running K-jet! Well, was.

    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    no its fine, just that mine gives you slightly more relavant descriptions as its euro specific plus theres seperate sections for mk2/3. for example they didnt even get the abf in the us!

    crank is the one with the red/yellow wire yeah, next to the 2 knock sensor plugs and the big round engien plug.

    ok with k-jet you'll have to use a relay socket, if it was digi you could have used the factory relay socket on the fusebox. no big deal though! 2 options either get a mk3 abf ecu relay and wire up the relay pins as per the mk3abfecu.pdf wiring diagram, or use a std switched automotive relay (i.e. VW #53). with the switched relay the wire from g1/7 will just go to the ign live pin, output from relay to g1/10 and live, ign live & earth pins to back of fusebox
     
  13. Patttt New Member

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    I've actually got a CE2 fusebox with all the needed relays on, so I've got no.30 for the ECU. I tried looking at your wiring diagram pdfs, but it wouldn't open for some reason. Is it my mac being funny? Think someone mentioned somewhere that theirs was too!

    In the round engine plug, and again with the ecu, is it best to just cut to a stub/ crimp/ tape up cut off un needed wires? Or is it best to take the spade/ connecting pin etc out from the ecu/ round engine plug?
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    just cut the wire short and leave it, you can put a bit of heat shrink on the end if you like but i dont bother as the looms will be wrapped anyway. thing is if you take the pin out you can let water get in the plug unless you have little blanking gromets to pop in the holes.

    the google docs site sometimes doesnt work, it also doesnt seem to like any apple products! if you have a gmail account you can log in that sometimes fixes it. ive had a quick look and it seems you cant scroll down at the moment :lol: try pressing page down on the keyboard that lets you scroll. plus direct links to the diagrams:
    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_V...Q3OC00YzQ2LWI0MmYtMWY2YTg2ZjdkYzVk/edit?pli=1
    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_V...BjNS00MDdhLWE4MjgtYTVjMTI3YzUzMzhi/edit?pli=1

    use one of the relay holders above the mk3 fusebox for your ecu relay, either #30 or #53 either will work just fine :thumbup:
     
  15. Patttt New Member

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    Haha yeah, I even resorted to ctrl - to make the writing as small as possible to view more! Okay cheers for the advice I will get on with it tomorrow! Will most likely have more questions :lol:

    I am also getting the bad feeling I don't have the wiring to connect the 2nd socket on the immob box- to whatever it's meant to go too! Will any mk3 golf/vento from 1995+ have it?
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    theres a diagnostics jumper block above the fusebox, the immob wire goes there, then theres another length of wire from that to the diagnostics port. any post-96 mk3 will have the port on it, try to drag it out without cutting the grey/white and yellow wires and take as much length of the red/white and brown as you can. these you splice to your ciggy lighter
     
  17. Patttt New Member

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    Just read the bit on the Mk1 thread mentioning this, sorry should have re-read before asking! Will have a go at finding a vag-com port & associated wiring for that & the immob box.

    This jumper block above the fusebox, is it seperate? Or is it clipped onto the top of this fusebox I have;
    IMG_0936.jpg

    I'm doubting this though!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 23, 2018
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    diagnostics jumper block is the bit on the top right, carefully release the retaining clip in the middle and it slides off. pinch the 53 relay socket while you're there, this will become your ecu relay socket. then you have a choice of wiring up the 53 or the 30 to power your ecu.

    you need the fuel pump relay 167, and also pinch the 99 relay and swap it for your old 19 relay. that'll give you variable intermittent wipers [:D]
     
  19. Patttt New Member

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    The jumper block doesn't look very -wire connecting friendly-? When I remove the wiring needed for immob box/ diagnostics etc will there be plugs to fit this box? As I don't have anything that'll connect to it.

    I've found on a caddy build thread the following;

    ECU relay(30);
    86- ign live (unsure)
    30- live (blk/yellow?)
    85- earth (got)
    87- ecu pin 23 (Is one of these the ecu reference live? blk/red)
    86A- ecu pin 9 (will trace this back to ecu plug)

    On the mk1 abf thread you gave me, he hasn't mentioned wire colours so I was abit unsure on some of these plugs on CE1 loom;

    3 pin- brown/white & grn/white & red/blk
    IMG_0948.jpg

    1 pin- blk (goes to tci)
    IMG_0947.jpg

    2 pin- both blk (one slightly thicker than other)
    IMG_0946.jpg

    2 pin- blk/yellow & white
    IMG_0945.jpg

    2 pin- brown/blk & blk
    IMG_0944.jpg

    2 pin- white & blk
    IMG_0943.jpg

    two single pins- blk/red & blk/blu
    IMG_0942.jpg

    1 ring pin- brown/white
    IMG_0941.jpg

    2 pin- blk & yellow/blk
    IMG_0940.jpg

    2 pin- brown/white & red/white
    IMG_0939.jpg

    Then after that I have the tci 6 pin plug and its earth to use in the splicing method.

    Cheers
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 23, 2018
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Location:
    Bracknell
    86 - ign live - pin d/2 or d/7. can splice to the black/yellow wire on the mk2 coolant level relay, or ign live spade on back of fusebox
    30 - permenent live - to live spade on rear of fusebox
    85 - earth - earth claw or splice to chunky brown as per my previous posts
    87 - black/yellow wire on G1/10 - main live feed to ecu pin 23
    86a - black/white wire on G1/7 - reference ign live feed to ecu pin 9

    only trouble with ecu relay 30 is pin 86a is a small size spade, but you can buy these from polevolt. 53 relay just uses std size spades so easier if thats all you have in stock

    if you wire up a 53 relay do it as follows:

    86 - as above, but splice the ecu pin 9 wire from g1/7 to this pin as well
    30 - as above
    85 - as above
    87 - as above

    1. dizzy plug, this you use 1 of the wires for abf coil conversion, the other 2 wires are no longer required so get chopped out
    2. coil pin 15. its a piggy back from the ign live below which powers the tci
    3. ign live to coil, 1 of these wires will probably be part of the k-jet loom and can be cut out. you'll see as you strip out the k-jet gubbins anyway
    4. idle switch, bin
    5. aux air valve maybe? whatever it is, bin
    6. cold throttle enrichment valve? whatever it is, bin
    7. reverse wires, keep
    8. earth to head, this will be replaced with the abf loom earth to head. as i said before this can go in the bin but copy the red spade length at fusebox end on the abf loom pin g1/7 if that makes sence?
    9. feed for 5th injector and cold throttle enrichment, bin
    10. mfa outside temp sensor, keep
     

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