Converting wheel bolts to studs and nuts

Discussion in 'Track Prep & Tech' started by GVK, Apr 4, 2005.

  1. GVK

    GVK Forum Addict

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    Want to convert the mk2 to studs and nuts instead of wheel bolts, what's the best studs and nuts to use, where from etc??

    I once ordered some from Rally Design, but the plain part of the stud was smaller diameter than the thread, so the stud couldn't be tightened up into the hub using double nut method or whatever, they suggested I should just "loctite 'em in mate".... Sent them back.. [xx(]
     
  2. edc1 Forum Member

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    I think Bill still does them
     
  3. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    The only place I know of that does the proper ones is Techno2, but they're a fortune compared to the usual DT stuff.



    I'm near certain they don't make them, so they're coming from somewhere..............

    I went round and round Autosport this year and found... nothing.
     
  4. Oplaii Forum Member

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  5. Chris H Forum Junkie

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    Sorry if this is a totally bone question, but what are the benefits of converting to studs and nuts?
     
  6. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    http://www.trackstore.co.uk/shop%20frame.html

    No - these are the same ones Gary will have ordered from DT. The part nos give it away. ;)

    Everywhere is awash with these studs, and no one seems to sell the pukka ones you see in a race paddock.
     
  7. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Track day hassle factor, especially if you ever run spacers. You might think "why bother" but after a while it grates on you.
     
  8. GVK

    GVK Forum Addict

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    As Chris says, it's a lot easier to swap wheels with nuts and studs then fiddling around with wheel bolts. Esp with freezing cold hands at 0730 in Donington paddock on a winter Trackzone day :lol:
    Edited by: GVK
     
  9. Chris H Forum Junkie

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    Good, that's what i thought it was, not a total idiot after all. [:^:] :lol:
     
  10. yeha Forum Member

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    There's nowt wrong with Grayston stuff, which is the cheap studs, nuts etc. OK they don't look as nice as the bespoke stuff, but then again it's substantially cheaper. Most failures occur through bad installation or use. Not having enough threads in the nut is a classic. How many people have run standard wheel bolts on alloys and only had 3 or 4 turns of thread holding them on? I've used the Grayston stuff on Escorts, Manta's and Pug's with no problems ever. I've also sold quite a few sets to people with rally cars and had no problems.
     
  11. alby Forum Junkie

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  12. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    The Grayston/DT/whoever supplied stud converters do not have a proper raised centre section, so they do not give a convincing double nut up against the hub.
     
  13. GVK

    GVK Forum Addict

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  14. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    They're Grayston studs - you can tell. They're bright silver, no raised centre.
     
  15. RobT

    RobT Forum Junkie

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    Nice - these are like I have been looking for for some time, never found
    any in UK. I have run the Grayston ones for 3 yrs (supplied by Bill) and
    have to say they are fine - never had any issues with the rears (very little
    heat generation on rear) and only had one front come loose - heavy duty
    studlock used rather than threadlock - I would say they would be fine if
    removed once a year, hub threads cleaned out with a starter tap, and re-
    locktite. The problem is that big heat cycles from front brakes eventually
    makes the studlock give up.

    I have recently converted back to bolts on front though as with bolts, its
    possible to remove the front disk without taking the caliper off - very
    handy for servicing and excellent design from wilwood

    Cheers

    Rob
     
  16. GVK

    GVK Forum Addict

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    Thanks Rob, I just didn't like the idea of the studs not having a definite 'stop' for want of a better word. Knowing my luck with buying bits from the States, the feckers will no doubt cane me for import duty :lol:[xx(]


    Edited by: GVK
     
  17. RobT

    RobT Forum Junkie

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    The alternative is to get some 10.8 or better bolts or socket caps, pull the
    hub and insert them from the rear of the hub - there should be just
    enough clearance - CHEAP......
     
  18. I V - mk1 16v Forum Member

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    I use the cheapo Rally Design ones, have had them for about a year with no probs (so far). I just used loctite and then spread the back of the stud with a cold chisel to make sure. [:$] I do always use a torque wrench to tighten up the wheel nuts thou'.

    Well worth doing though, so much less hassle than trying to line up spacers with the hubs, whilst holding the wheel and trying to thread the bolt in. [:x] [:x] :lol:
     
  19. GVK

    GVK Forum Addict

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    I've got spacers on the rear, just dab a bit of silicone on the back of the spacer, once it goes off it'll stay there the next time you remove the wheel. [8D]
     
  20. Dogwood Forum Member

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    I use the Techno2 studs and alloy nuts. Mega quality but very expensive and a pain to fit.
     

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