Last weekend I noticed the gear shift is coming back to the same place when gears are engaged. I was wondering if this was normal, because I am used to gear knob standing in a more obvious place related to the gear it's in. Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/sSlO16ly254
Yesterday and today I've worked on the car for a bit again. As I said earlier, something has happened to the front T part because it doesn't fit quite nicely, also the hood pins are suddenly out of place. I fixed that yesterday by some bending and filing out some holes. Today I continued with the radiator; I grinded a bit of the gearbox to make more room for the lower hose. I also made a new support arm on the top which is longer, so that radiator can lean back more. Otherwise the lower hose will hit the engine support. Now it's all nice and free. On the top I also connectted the radiator hoses with th 45° pipe I ordered earlier this week. I filled the cooling system with demi water and Mocool and tried to start it. It didn't want to fire, so after some checks I tried again and the problem gave itself away; a big bang from the exhaust when releasing the key. Same problem as last year, the DIS coil is on a port on the fusebox which cuts off during starting. I kind-of fixed it last year by using the 12V spade from the starter engine on the 2Y box, but this starter doesn't have that function (to keep a live 12V during starting). It looks like I'll have to put the KMS and DIC coil on the same port then, as the KMS (somehow) is being powered during starting. I've documented it, so should be hard to find/ fix
Measured the outputs on the fusebox (some are even 12V only during start) and had the car running yesterday! I had it run for a while until the temperatures were all up. The fan is not mounted on the rad yet so the water started to become quite hot in the end... Shifting gears was also all working OK so far (no load) and most importantly, no leakages found! Today I removed the brakes again because I forgot to mount the brake shields behind the discs.... so that's now being re-built.
180 hp with the airbox. Map has been changed as there is less air available so the injection could be lowered in some bands by 10%. Not bad anyway, 10 hp less than last year (with same outside temp). Speedo didn't work, cable fell off somehow. Fixed it, but forgot to look at it in the small test drive to warm up the gearbox. Gearbox didn't want to go in 5th -> fixed by adjusting the cable. It is sensitive though, it's no first or no 5th gear if you're not in the exact spot. Gearbox oil changed. Exhaust is still not airtight with the new tube So that will need some additional gungum-paste - another time. Brakes are still shit. I think it's just going to be a new master cylinder. How could it be good in November and a really low pedal again this week? There are no leakages found.
Wheels are aligned last Friday, on Saturday we replaced the master rake cylinder. After removal it was clear the MBC was the issue all along, as there was brake fluid in the booster. Of course refitting the new MBC didn't go too easy, as the pin in the booster decided to part its mounting position. My wife managed to get in back in to place and then we could mount the MBC. After bleeding the air the pedal is hard once again! When I wanted to close the passenger window, I noticed the rotation was very heavy and it sounded like there was slip in the system. We closed the window by helping the glass go up manually but it didn't feel good at all. I hope it doesn't come down Wednesday, I will have a look afterwards. Is it a known issue/ failure in the system (just of old age I guess)? Another issue is that the car doesn't start due to the voltage drop of the starter motor. With the old gearbox it was working, most times (except when cold) but now it is a bigger issue. I hoped it would be better because I thought I bought the starter with the planetary gearwheelset..... Can anyone help me out to confirm? I have to check the number on the starter though.
Bad connection to the bellhousing, creating a bad earth? Re the window, with the window up, point a straw from a WD40 or sprayable grease can under the rubber, and liberally spray it around the inside of the door where the runners are, and the cable, sometimes helps. And with the window down, lots of Silicon spray into the rubbers.
I'll remove the carbon door panel after the trackday and check the issue before drowning everything in WD40 Regarding the starter, bad earth... I've got the same 2 wires to the gearbox as before. I measure a really low resistance, but that is without any current obviously so doesn't say much about the thickness. The starter cranks the engine in a decent speed, that's no issue. And with a little starter help (attached to the mass on the frame, not the engine) it directly starts. I'll have -yet another- look into that.
Thought about it, but your reply would indicate that the slip I feel (handle rotation but no glass panel movement) is normally possible? So the noises that come with it, which are hard to explain but some grinding is there, are not from slipping teeth or anything?
Oh, sorry, I was skimming your comment. If it's slipping, it's ready to fail. But having everything lubricated might help keep it alive until you get another window regulator.
Thanks Tristan, your replies are much appreciated. Getting the car ready for tomorrow, I put the GoPro in and connected the cable (G01 on fusebox). Ignition on -> GoPro charging Fuelpump off -> GoPro off. Wait what? Apart from the 12V, also during starting; 12V, but not during starting; 12V only during starting and vage low voltages there is ALSO "only 12V with the fuel pump ON" option??? I reccon it will be on when the engine is running, as the fuel pump is then running as well. Can anyone confirm, because tomorrow morning I could still change it but on track I wanna go obviously. The GoPro is charging now ofcourse, but I'm not sure the battery will last as it is an oldy.
G spade 1 on CE1 fusebox should be live ignition on but goes dead while cranking: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/#post-1945623 if you want it on constant you need G spade 2 or 5, if your fuel pump is on an x-live feed thats not much use to you either. Unless the X contact relay or ignition switch has failed and somehow the fuel pump power is also back feeding this circuit
Can't be sure if there is power with engine running as the GoPro was fully charged over night so the light didn't go on. Also, the GoPro didn't turn on at all so there are no videos of today I will post a full story later, but the recap is there were some minor issues, some repairs but when driving the car was going at it! It was lot's of fun, had some nice 'fights' with cars/drivers that were at fast. Funny detail is that the much faster Porsches and M3 and M4's overtake me on the straight but in the corners I am faster... I had to really really really brake hard and long to not hit a Porsche that just overtook me and also release trottle for an M3 that overtook me before steering in but I almost hit him mid corner. All done on the Nankang AR1 tires, last year I thought they were shit but today they performed well and I even bettered my lap record!
So, the recap of yesterday. As said overall not a bad day. First time with the 02A gearbox, cable shifting and new cooling set. The cooling worked very well. The first two sessions I had a piece of cardboard in front of the oil cooler to let the oil warm up better, as it was quite cold even in the beginning of the afternoon. The oil went up to 110 °C, already 10 °C colder as normal. With the cardboard removed the oil was 100 °C. Another thing that was cooler, was the coolant. The new setup + oil cooler + Mocool made the coolant indicator stand in the middle. Normally, also with my previous KR engine and standard rad etc, it was always at 75% of the scale. So the cooling setup does work! Thanks Tristan for the water wetter (Mocool in my case) tip and Tony for the cooler setup-copy I did have a bit of an oil leak and it got even worse when we tried to fix it. One of the rubbers between the cooler and a connection (I re-used them...) has gone 'bad' and was leaking. So I'll replace the rubber and (hopefully) don't touch it anymore. The gearbox did work fine in the beginning, but it wouldn't go into 4th as easy as you would expect. Later on it started to take its time getting into three as well, which simply costed time waiting for it to fall in. Downshifting worked way better but I did have a loud crunch twice when shifting back into 2nd, - maybe the RPM it had to fly into was too high at that point. Overall not really satisfied, my old 2Y box was way better when adjusted correctly. Let's hope this is also adjustable, and not the gearbox being ready for a revision after about 40 laps. At the end of the day, lining up for the trailer, the clutch/ flywheel something also started to make a noise, like something was touching the flywheel. Let's hope its some debris or pickup (there is no plate there yet), otherwise it would mean another disassembly of the gearbox which I am not looking forward to. I also placed a new MBC last week and when I drove off on the paddock I immediately noticed the pedal was deep again... damn it. Went to warm up for some laps and brake power was there, but the feeling was sh*t. After the first session we bled the brakes, which made the pedal and feeling better, but not perfect yet. I'll look into it, but I could slam the brakes all day without issues. I also noticed the brake cooling working, the brakes were definitely better (so, cooled) after the high speed corners where only two short brake tips are necessary. Furthermore I noticed the gas pedal had no "pedal to the metal" feeling. I think I messed up the gromet in the firewall or something, last year it was definately on (I know I checked). I'll have to find the correct gromet back. On high speeds there was a lot of vibration. I'm not sure if it was only in 5th gear but I am going to start by re-balancing the wheels. As said in my previous post I did have a lot of fun and the car went well. I improved my best lap time from 2:04,29 on the old Toyo's last year, to 2:03,70 on the Nankangs this year. The tires performed wa better tahn last year somehow, no screaming or heavy grip loss, they went really well this time. Maybe they have a smaller working window or something.
All hopefully simple fixes Glad the cooling has been sorted. Re the gearbox, I had issues similar. I started using RedLine gearoil and it definitely improved. Re the brakes, have you bled the rears, with the calipers hung up high? Re the throttle, definitely look at that, to make sure you're not stretching the cable! AR1s are good so? You think maybe they like running cooler than you had last time?
What type of Redline oil did you use? When searching for it (in NL), Motul comes up, too Brakes are bled on the car, not with the calipers held higher. I can try that once again, but I don't really like it because you also have to put in a spacer that simulates the disc and pads. I looked in pictures of last year, there is definately a different gromit on the firewall what holds the throttle cable. I don't want to stretch the cable or put too much force on anything else indeed! I drove the Nankang tires last year in April, in August (very hot day) and in November, so almost at all temperatures Maybe they need a longer run in time, or they need more push (but someone with a lot of HP is continously having screeching tires), or just the temp to be between 10 and 20°C or something.
