Thanks, the search for the correct one will be easier now. The car is still not unloaded, so it 'll have to wait for at least this afternoon
Is there a hose that replaces the two hoses for the heater? Despite being set to 'cool' lot of warm air was coming into the vents. Not strange, as the foam on the plates in the selectors has mostly gone by now. I thought about putting a stop into both ends but one is coming straight out of the cylinder head and the second hose of that connection has less diameter, so maybe that isn't the best idea?
Yes, I kept it in for rainy or cold days but the heat of the engine will find it's way into the passenger cabin anyway.
alrighty there isnt an off the shelf hose but a bit of looped hose will do you. I've seen race engines with the side flange blocked completely even.... As standard MK1 have a tap on the inlet feed to the matrix which fully closes the flow off, and there's a small bore hose from the side flange to metal pipe to allow coolant flow. So you don't need to worry about the step down in size anyway
Ah, I couldn't remember anymore if there was a tap or if it's just with the flaps. When there is a tap then the flow is closed indeed so it shouldn't matter if I close the hoses instead. There is a bypass but it's smaller in diameter. That's why I was wondering. I don't want the stop on the heda-exit to be shot out and coolant flowing all over the place.
Sorry in the mk2 you have flaps in the heater box to change the temp, coolant always flows round the matrix. I was just mentioning the MK1 to put your mind at rest re: reduction of hose size by the sounds of it you have the old bypass valves fitted, which are there in the event the matrix bursts. if you've repalced it the valves can go, I fit MK3 matrix hoses as they route a bit neater when I bin off the valves. or in your case they'll be binned when you loop the feed round to the metal pipe bypassing the matrix entirely
Bypass valves? Where are they and how should they look? Anyway, fixed the throttle cable gromit, thanks for the link, found it real quick after looking at the picture Also cleaned up most of the oil and did somewhat of an inspection. The gearbox is already laying on the subframe-crossbar. There is some oil on the gearbox too. Can't see where it is from. I want to check the level because I don't trust it.
Actually, I had Redline Lightweight Shockproof, then used Motul Gear Competition. Motul is probably better oil. Re the brakes, I just use a caliper wind back tool. What was your starting problem, did you figure out?
I've got MOtul oil in now, but the 300LS. I'll try the competion then and hope it's better, but first I need to find the noise thing around the flywheel/ clutch. Starting with the engine cold is still a no-go without booster, with a warm engine I can get it going again. The trick is (I new this last year) to give the throttle a little bit of opening so there is less vacuum, that will greatly help starting. I didn't check the mass cables anymore, it's on the list.
By the way is there a shorter speedo cable? The one from the 2Y just goed up and into the dashboard but the one I have now is so long it's all over the place. The hole is on the rear side of the gearbox too!
if you have the valves they are inserted into the 2 matrix lines and have a small pipe between them, this extra pipe is what I thought you meant earlier. regardless if you want to bypass the heater just put a loop between side flange and metal pipe, job done
In that case I indeed do not have a bypass, so this is the hose I am looking for. They don't have the same diameter so I'll have to make something special. Meanwhile I've ordered Yellowstuff pads for the rear axle as they continue to increase in price, it's not funny anymore.
Talked to the guy I bought the gearbox from. He indicated the problem could be too much heat in the box and suggested Motul Gear competition 75W140 (like Tristan), but also an additive called Polytron MTC. So, long story short; why bother having a savings account when you have a race car
At the end of the day I noticed some clutch noise. Its present when the clutch is pressed. What can this be? The pressure bearing is brand new....
I've been trying to remove the gearbox but it's being quite a b*tch. Saturday we tried but left the axle in, which was in the way obviously. Then we couldn't get the gearbox back on either, so I hung it more or less on some bolts, lowered it and then took of the box so it could rest on a trolley. But this has made life less easy, as you can't really get around it anymore, the trolley is only 40-50 cm high. Yesterday I tried to remove the box once more and I got a bit further than Saturday, but the diff flange was stuck behind the flywheel. I was alone, so it just wouldn't go. I tried to put the box back on the engine in the end so I could lift it again, but once again no luck on getting it on. I don't why it's so hard to get the gearbox on. The axle just won't go in the clutch.
might help: https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/getting-a-mk2-gearbox-out-in-2-hours.133989/
