Well, as some of you know I am pretty good at ripping the cams out of Elaine's 25J having done it three times now! I don't mind doing the job except for getting the belt cover off! This is uber tight against the brake master cylinder. I bet it's easier in the original A4 set-up. But worst still is compressing the cam-belt tensioner! It's a real pain to get a stud in there. It took me quite a while every time. First one has to find an M5 stud! What a stupid size to use! Why not M6, which is easier to find? Also. The M5 stud I found is low grade, so it bent. Plus. Turning the stub into the threads is not easy at all. So. I put a knob on the end of the stud for the 2nd time. And. Finding a large M5 washer is difficult and that bent. Thus I brazed a thick M5 a standard onto a thick M6 large washer. 1st time I used the bent spanner without the extension tube and grazed my knuckles 'till they bled. View attachment 5051
The dreaded cam tensioner what a pain in the a**e I welded a m6 bolt onto some m5 stud it works but still a pain to do
I tried to come up with something like that but welding is not my forte these days. But. You have got me thinking again! I have some short M5 cap screws and some long M6 cap screw. I can reduce the end of the M6, with a file, and braze it into the head on the M5!
Design #2 Thanks to Carey's post I decided to make a double-decker stud! 6 mm silver soldered onto a 5mm hex screw. The knob is from a MTB wheel skewer. The plastic tube stops the washer sliding down when first installing the stud. The spanner is an old school Gordon's 0BA. I have quite a few!? Slightly wider than 10 mm so easier to get on the nut. The Gordon steel is so good that when I cut the small end off it blunted a junior hacksaw blade. The 8 mm Draper one that I used for the 5 mm stud cut like butter!