Anyone have an idea on why this thread is unavailable to see? http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?277983-Easy-late-Mk2-Upgrade-to-Audi-80-CV-Joints&highlight= I am signed in and get "You do not have permission to view this page or perform this action." I'm looking for any upgrades that will reduce my breakage in a rally car. Desire to stay 4x100 because of the stock of wheels I have. Welding and re-drilling is not a problem. I understand looking for OEM GKN or Lobro, I understand limiting droop and steering angles. I also know that I have never had problems with bolt through CV's vs. threaded shaft ones. I do know someone that has made custom stubs with splines cut for different CV's, but challenging, and I'd rather not go that way if there is a better solution. Racing a 35 year old car can be a challenge. I will keep looking, but if anyone can point me to a current solution, I would appreciate it. Thanks.
drop a PM to Mushy https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?members/mushy-16v.31907/ its in his section, must be a good reason he parked it I guess duped info
Thank you for the info, I'll hit him up and see if he responds. From what I can tell, the Audi 80 CV's might be the same ones used on a V8Q and some A6s. I have some V8Q ones and might tear them apart to see if I can adapt the hubs to fit into a mk3. The answers I have found were guys cutting new hubs and broaching splines into them.
heres a great page, few posts down Dave goes into some detail and posts up some handy links: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/cv-joint-drawings.234057/
That thread, my friend, is gold. Thank you very much. This is starting to feel more like archeology than mechanics.
Just to close the loop, the V8Q CV's are not the same(38t). Also, the 90 ones that are usable are only the rears, the fronts are the same as the V8Q. Ordered what I thought were rears and got fronts (of which I already have plenty) I thought I made it clear to the guy what I wanted and he sent the other. Contacting him turned into a Sh-t show, so I'll just sell them myself and move on. Already got the new 33 spline ones in, and going to talk to the machinist next week. I'll try and put up the diameters of the different splines as that's missing from the great drawings on the link above. Looks like the 33t can be machined into the 22t hub. About .050" larger.
Of course, it's challenging to get the design dimensions on the splines, as there is some distortion from the rolling process, but the rough measurements I got were: mk2/3 hub splines, 22t: .09530" (24.2mm). Audi 80 (90 rear) splines, 33t: 1.0545" (26.78mm). The hub O/D (bearing I/D): 1.3775" (35mm). Bearing O/D: 66mm The V8Q and 90 front are considerably larger (38t), and unless I do something radical, not usable. I see some uprights listed as having 77mm bearing O/D, vs. 66mm. but I haven't identified which ones yet. Bottom line is that the wall thickness using the mk3 spline is somewhere near 10.78mm, and if machined to fit the 33t spline, would have enough room for fresh splines and have a remaining wall thickness of something over 8mm. I'm thinking with the bearing pressed over it adding strength, it would have enough to survive. Thoughts, suggestions, experience? bo
While we're on the subject, I have never heard of 100mm inner C/V's having a problem other than when the motor has excess movement. Mine is locked down. So also asking for experience on that front. This car is running rally. Not an extreme amount of power, but a huge level of shock loading. I'd really like for this issue to go away for a while, especially since I'm going from an ABA (~120hp) to an ABF (160+). Just to cover all bases, it has a 020 with a plate diff, and I'd rather not move up to a 02A-J. bo
To add my 2pennies worth of info, I reckon that excesive movement in the drivetrain is what it's breaking shafts ! I have a golf mk2 with a pd engine running 370 bhp and 700nm of torque, driveshafts are stock cut and welded mk4 jobbies. I managed to break the ball bearings cage on right hand side driveshaft last month due to a very spirited drive and a few 2nd gear launches. Funnily is just de Cage that broke and it was quite easy to repair. My car is very stiff, beefed up engine mounts and coilovers, this plays a major role as I don't get wheel hop ! I suggest you try and limit drivetrain movement as much as possible, probably on a 4wd car the stress is even more due to inability to slip the wheels on hard acceleration.
Breakage would be an issue with stock mount, but as I said, that's not the case. Almost 100 percent solid mounts. No movement. A cage I can understand, and an inner from bad mounts, but my latest was a twisted spline on the CV.
