Emerald wiring help

I hope you had you ignition off, could get 6 points for that lol

 

Key off in a car parking space so 6 points and 200 pound fine avoided.
I ain't going down for the club like that lol

Home now helping with school work. Do not hang about!

 

Good good.

Right the black/white wire for ecu power that John said in the same spade as black coil wire, these don't go anywhere apart from the old ecu and the other unit by the ecu, which I have removed and unplugged and that section of loom now removed from the car, so I'm confused now.

I've also got two red and black wires the same thickness that used to go to the coil which one is my tacho feed? The one with the spade you can disconnect when setting up the idle on kjet or the other one?

 

Use the black wire 1.5mm wire (KL15) that supplies the original coil to switch on the K6 ECU at pin 28 and 11.

The supply from KL15 originally taps off into the 1mm blk/w lead that supplies the ignition ECU on pin 5.

You should have 3 wires on the negative on the original coil.
A 1.5mm green that would have gone to the now redundant TCI-h and two red/blk 0.5mm that both in the engine control harness back the fuse box to the rev counter and on a Kjet 16v MK2 the idle speed control controller.

 

This is what I have that used to go to the coil
A black on its own with a spade terminal on (this goes back into the car)

A Double plug with two red/black wires in one side and the green in the other ( the two red and blacks go back into the car)
The green goes to the small section of loom

Then another spade with a black wire and a white and black ( these only go to the old ecu and tci-h unit



I'm guessing they used to go like this ( I unplugged them in a hurry a while ago)

 

Single black is ignition live KL15. This you need.
The others supply the the TCI-h (black) and the ignition ECU (black/white) so redundant.

Red/Blk w/o the single connector goes to the rev counter via G1/12. This you need.

The other red/blk with the single connector is for the idle controller so redundant.
The green wire is the negative for the TCH-h so redundant.

 

Cheers Ed, sorry if this is painful for you guys, I just like to be 100% clear on what I need to do before I do it.

So ecu power and coil pack power from kl15

 

yes.

 

So the 1.5mm wire you have run from the fuel pump relay output to the injector power, is plug M position 2 red and yellow wire, I Can just splice into this wire and run it upto the injector feed.?

 

^^He contacted me before you wrote that and I sorted him out

 

So I got it all wired up and used z1 for injector power, the Ecu is priming the fuel pump and the fpr was showing 3.5ish bar on the guage and it was turning over but wouldn't fire.
So I started to go though the wiring, I am getting 12v with the ignition on at the coil pack power. I'm pretty sure the firing order is correct as I haven't changed the position of the lead on the coil pack from when i bought it and the leads are numbered.
I'm using the Peugeot coil pack that came with it.

I then tried buzzing out all the wires back to the ecu plug and found the signal wire from the Ecu to injector no.4 broken.
So I have ordered some new terminals for the plug and will get that repaired during the week.

Would this one wire stop it firing ?

Looking sorry for itself






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Should still 'pop' on the other three and run like a bag of nails.

 

That's what I was thinking [emoji19]
I'll repair the injector wire 1st and go from there I guess, I'm still waiting on the terminals.

I'm going to download the emerald software and plug the lap top into it, will this give any indication of any faults???


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Will indicate everything is electrically correct or not.

 

I have used a multi meter on continuity and buzzed them all out back to the Ecu, that's how I found this one. I've bought a crimping tool for these terminals to make the repair and will check the others out

Cheers guys


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This looks better I hope [emoji106]



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