its the one which was in a plastic box in the big ecu plug half of the loom, I always keep it. if you've binned it off and relocated ecu/coil power relay inside did you keep the ecu trigger wire to it? if so, cut into that wire
Hi John, Just started to convert my 77 mk1 which has ceramic fuse box to ce2. Engine loom integration was pretty straight forward as just run the mk3 wiring and deleted the stuff thats not required. I have moved onto the wiring behind the dash board however there seems to be a fair few differences. Am i missing another pinout link?? As below this is what I'm currently stumped with Blue plug d 4 blue/grey 5 black/white 7 white/green 10 brown (ground to where) 14 red Black plug e 7 brown/black 10 black/yellow 11 brown/blue 17 red/black
since you have very early my list doesn't quite cover, as I based it mostly from 78 diagrams with some bits from slightly earlier. Just put together a preliminary new list together from diagrams 75-78. just got to figure out how I'm going to squeeze it into the front page Early MK1/Scirocco ceramic fusebox 75-77: A - White 2 - blu/brn - brake light switch pin 81a (dual circuit warning) 3 - blk/wht - radiator fan switch (early models with fan relay in fusebox) 4 - 5 - grn - ignition coil pin 1 & cluster pin 3 on some models (rev counter) 6 - blk/wht - left front turn signal 7 - brn - horn 8 - red - radiator fan or radiator fan switch (early models, sometimes w/fuse inline) 9 - gry/blk - front left sidelight 10 - red/blk - starter motor pin 50 \- red/blk - automatic shift inhibitor & reverse switch pin 50 11 - blk/yel - horn (X live, fuse 9) 12 - blk - series resistance -> coil pin 15 14 - red/yel - brake light switch (permanent live, fuse 7) 15 - blk/gry - reverse light switch (ignition live, fuse 9) 16 - blk/red - brake light switch (brake lights on) 17 - blk/blu - reverse light switch (lights on) \- blk/gry - automatic shift inhibitor & reverse switch pin RF 18 - wht - front left main beam (fuse 3) 19 - yel - front left dipped beam (fuse 1) B - (?) 4 - blu/yel - Connection in test network linked to central socket (linked internally to C/19, alternator B+) 8 - grn - Connection in test network linked to central socket (linked internally to A/5 & C/4, ignition coil pin 1) 12 - yel/wht - Connection in test network linked to central socket (linked internally to E/19, left indicator) 17 - wht - Connection in test network linked to central socket (linked internally to F/10, heated rear screen, fuse 5) 19 - blk/grn - Connection in test network linked to central socket (linked internally to E/22, right indicator) 20 - blk/red - Connection in test network linked to central socket (linked internally to F/20 & A/16, brake lights on) C - White 1 - blu/yel - coolant temp sensor 2 - blu - alternator D+ 4 - grn - cluster pin 3 (only on some models, rev counter) 5 - 6 - grn - wiper motor pin 53e 7 - gry/red - front right sidelight 8 - yel/blk - front right dipped beam (fuse 2) 9 - grn/blk - wiper motor pin 53 11 - wht/blk - front right main beam (fuse 4) 12 - blu/blk - oil pressure switch 13 - blk/grn - wiper motor pin 53a 15 - blk - auto choke & cut-off solenoid (ignition live) 16 - grn/yel - wiper motor pin 53b 17 - grn/red - windscreen washer pump 18 - blk/grn - right front indicator 19 - blu/yel - to T2a socket, then Alternator B+ (linked internally to B/4) D - Blue 1 - blu/red - cluster pin 1 (indicator warning) 2 - blu - cluster pin 9 (alternator D+) 3 - red - headlight switch pin 30 (permanent live) 4 - blu/brn - brake warning light pin K (dual circuit warning) 5 - blk/red - fresh air blower motor (early models, x live - fuse 11) \- blk/wht - heated rear screen switch pin + (later models, x live - fuse 11) 6 - blu/yel - trailer tow warning lamp 7 - wht or wht/grn - heated rear screen switch pin 86 8 - blu/yel - cluster pin 8 (coolant temp) 9 - 10 - brn - main fusebox earth, looks to be crimped to other earths in dash harness, then to earth claw on chassis near steering column 11 - 12 - wht - hazard switch pin 49 (relay power from switch) 14 - red - cigarette lighter pin 30 & glovebox light (permanent live, fuse 7) 15 - 16 - 17 - wht/blk - headlight switch pin 56 (headlights on) 18 - blu/blk - cluster pin 10 (oil pressure switch) 19 - blk/yel - heated rear screen switch pin X (early models, x live - fuse 10) \- blk/red - fresh air blower motor (later models, x live - fuse 10) 20 - blk/blu - hazard switch pin 15 (ignition live, fuse 8) 21 - red/wht - hazard switch pin 30 (permanent live, fuse 6) 22 - blu/wht - cluster pin 2 (main beam warning, fuse 3) E - Black 1 - gry/blk - headlight switch pin 58 (sidelights) 2 - blk - ignition switch pin 15 & cluster pin 6 (ignition live) 3 - blk/wht/grn - hazard & indicator switch switch pin 49a (pulsed power from hazard relay) 5 - gry/red - headlight switch pin 58 (sidelights) 6 - 7 - brn or brn/blu - Wiper stalk pin S1 (Relay pin S) 8 - brn/wht - headlight flasher switch pin S 9 - gry/red - headlight switch pin 58 (sidelights) 10 - blk/yel - ignition & headlight switch pin X 11 - brn/blu - horn button pin S- (single horn) \- brn - horn relay pin 87 (dual tone horns) 12 - pur/blk - fuel level sender 13 - 15 - gry/red - rear right sidelight 16 - 17 - red/black - ignition switch pin 50 18 - grn - wiper stalk pin 53e 19 - blk/wht - hazard & indicator switch switch pin L (left indicator) 20 - grn/red - wiper stalk pin 53c & headlight washer relay pin S 21 - 22 - blk/grn - hazard & indicator switch switch pin R (right indicator) F - Yellow 9 - gry/blk - rear left sidelight 10 - wht - heated rear screen (fuse 5) 12 - pur/blk - fuel level sensor 13 - gry/grn - number plate lights (fuse 12) 14 - red - interior light (permanent live, fuse 6) 15 - 16 - blk/grn - right rear indicator 18 - blk - reverse lights 19 - blk/wht - left rear turn signal 20 - blk/red - brake lights G 1 - blk/yel - front fog light relay pin 87 (early models w/front fogs, fog lights on) \- red - linked to H for rad fan, later models 2 - linked internally to E/7 (?) 3 - blk - brake warning light pin 15 (ignition live) 4 - gry/red - fog light swit5ch pin + (linked internally to F/13, sidelights on) 5 - linked internally to C/2 (alternator D+) 6 - yel/blu - front fog lights (early models w/front fogs, fuse 15) \- red - radiator fan (later models, permanent live, fuse 15) 7 - red - front fog light relay pin 30 (x live) \- red - 30a fuse -> rear wash/wipe relay pin 30 (x live) 8 - brn - front fog light relay pin 85 (earthed when headlights are off via dip/flasher relay J) 9 - blu/blk - brake warning light pin OL (linked internally to D/18, oil pressure switch) 10- wht/blk - headlight washer relay pin 56 (linked internally to D/17, headlight switch pin 56 - headlights on) H 1 - red - Connection in test network linked to central socket (battery live) 2 - red - Connection in test network linked to central socket (battery live) 3 - red - battery live terminal 4 - red - ignition switch pin 30 5 - red - headlight washer relay pin 30 Cluster wiring: T10 ->77 pod clocks: 1 - blu/red - D/1 (indicator warning) 2 - blu/wht - D/22 (main beam warning, fuse 3) 3 - grn - C/4 or A/5 (rev counter) 4 - brn - earth 5 - gry/blu - illumination 6 - blk - ignition switch pin 15 (ignition live) 7 - pur/blk - E/12 (fuel level gauge) 8 - blu/yel - D/8 (coolant temp) 9 - blu - D/2 (alternator D+) 10 - blu/blk - D/18 (oil pressure switch)
Yeah thanks for that it makes sense now! From having a quick look into the dashboard wiring harness it seems like this part is the most difficult compared to the front,rear and interior harness. My understanding is that i would just reference wire for wire and should hopefully be able to re-pin the original dash harness to ce2 terminals plugs (black and blue mk1) Is there any issues id run in with trying to retain all mk1 golf switches etc? I can see the ignition wiring on the mk3 plug has more wires.
basically like for like yeah, there is no problem running all the mk1 switches on the mk2 fusebox it'll all work fine. the main thing is the headlight switch has far fewer wires than later stuff but you just ignore all the extras, however one thing I'd do while you're doing the job is add a fuse inline for the dash illumination so it wont melt if something happens. common fault on the earlier cars VW eventually re-designed the headlight switch so it was fed from the number plate light fuse if you want to retain the stalks and hazard switch find the 'golf91.pdf' diagram in my signature and check the wiring in there for models with tilt column, they use a dash mounted hazard switch as well. its really simple though you just keep the dash wiring as it is and redo the fusebox pins to suit main thing is the ce1 has separate permanent live wires for hazard and flasher switch but ce2 they're both fed from the same feed so have to join in the harness so both are tapped to same fusebox pin with ignition mk3 has parking light 'P' and key-in-ignition live 'SU', you can ignore the parking light feed if you like it just lights the sidelights 1 side if you leave indicators on and ignition off. the key-in-ignition live feeds the radio switched live and lights on warning buzzer, you may have an 'SU' pin on the MK1 ignition switch for this you can use or again ignore it for the warning light D/4 you only use that if you want to retain the early MK1 3 pin dual circuit brake pressure switches. if you've got 2 pin ones or have moved to a pedal switch you dont need that any more. likewise G/9 oil pressure switch wire for warning light OL wouldn't be used if you delete this function. if you bin off that stuff it'll just work as handbrake warning and low fluid level if you have a cap with a plug on same as later MK1
oh and with D/10, the equivalent of that is the main fusebox earth Z/2. so for all the random browns in the dash harness just run them to the claws as before or use the CE2 dash wiring earths for each switch/cluster/stalk/whatever and the wire to D/10 will no longer be needed. for the CE2 MK2 the claw earth is fed by F/4, on the MK3 this pin isnt used instead the claw is earthed to the chassis. For the MK1 claws make sure they have a good path to earth, ideally with your new loom you wont be using them much at all anyway
Awesome! You definitely make it sound easy . That will keep me pretty occupied for the next few weeks! Thanks again
So I had to take my pedal box out to alter the position of the throttle pedal. I have noticed this thick brown Earth hanging down and not sure where it has came from. it’s a mk3.5 golf cabriolet with a 20vt aum engine in it. Ce2 fuse box. I think it went in the back of the fuse box but can’t remember. TIA
Isn't it coming from the fusebox? Then it should go to one of the earth connectors on the LHS A-pillar. If it's coming from there, well then the other way around of course.
it comes in through the bulk head with the engine harness. I thought that one clipped into the fuse box not on to the a pillar. Tried it there but connectors are different.
I checked a2resource and there actually is no ground connection on the fusebox, so my previous post was rubbish. In my car I have an additional ground-divider with about 3 or 4 wires connected to it. This one is between the ground wires from the cable looms and the ground on the pillar. It should be white, can you find that one?
nice one thanks Jonny. I knew it came from there some where. Must have knocked it out when putting the pedal box back in. Thank you all very much
