if the fuel pump ran fine with the x relay 17 or 18 swapped into slot 2, you have ruled out all the internal connections for live, ignition live, earth and output to fuse 5. that leaves you with either a dead fuel relay, or an issue with the rev counter signal back to the fusebox. since the rev counter appears to work then just leaves you with faulty relay. but dont worry about the relay for now, concentrate on getting the car running just leave the x relay in that slot for now. the output from fuse 5 goes to E/14 which is fed by fuse 5, powers the fuel pump and also a male spade which then powers thye AAV and WUR in the engine bay. Also feeds big spade N before the fuse, but this is unused on the kjet 8v so no need to worry about that. N is used for some versions of digifant injection, on carb engines it feeds the inlet manifold heater and on diesel engines its for glow plugs unless you mean the extra connections for the relay socket, unless they are shown connected to the relay they are unused. pins 6, 7 and 8 on the socket are for other engines and not relevant to the kjet injection.
The only way the pump for me has run so far is with a direct 12v feed from the battery. I’m struggling with all this as I’m 6”7 and the cabriolet is very low. The fuse box is under the dash and there are a lot of sharp edges in the car. When I swapped relays nothing happened. Pump won’t run. But pump works when tested so supply issues this is why I was at the fuse box. So fuse 5 is switched on by the relay and directly supplies the pump. the issue then is to get the relay to turn on which it isn’t. As I’m not getting 12v to pump when cranking or ignition on. The N spade yeah saw that and tested continuity but listed as glow plugs so makes sense it’s unused.
ok, if the pump doesnt work with the 17/18 relay in slot 2 look at the main earth to the fusebox I mentioned from the back of plug D, if thats gone the car will do odd things. the live to the relay socket comes from the P spades on the back, this feeds all the permanent live feeds though so this isnt the issue as you checked the lives at the fuses 1 to 4. the ignition live comes from the ignition switch, again you checked all the fuses which should have ignition live and they do also. another thing you can try, if you loop a live into spade N this will back feed fuse #5 and tell you if theres an issue with the fuse socket or not. another thing you can do is make up a looped bity of wire and put it between the 2 large terminals on the relay socket, this will tell you if theres an issue on the main input and output pins on the fuse socket
Apologies if this has been mentioned in a different topic, im trying to find wiring info/diagrams for the early MK2's using MK1 MFA (pic), in my case a january '84 mk2 gti. So far ive been trying to work it out combining mk1 and mk2 wiring info. I also have problems like, instead of the upshift light kicking in at the appropriate rpm, i get a constant light at flasher indicator led, that causes the flasher relay to buzz. The economy gauge isnt working as well. Any info or advice on how to troubleshoot this would be great. Jim
hello there, if you look at the CE1 section towards the bottom there is a full pinout for the CE1 MK2 cluster, plus the wiring you're looking for for vacuum switch and 5th gear switch for the mpg gauge are wired to plug D then from there into the dash loom. you should have a control relay in slot 4 for it also. I would start by checking the cluster earth to the side of the head, its the brown/white wire it runs to a spade plug on the bottom of the clock plug
Do you mean the brown wire that goes to the long side of the white plug? Or is it an extra earth for MFA models im missing
yes on the cluster its brown, it leads to a male spade with a wire from the mfa stalk, then theres a brown/white wire from that in the engine loom off to the side of the head
Hi, have read this whole thread and learnt many things, so thanks for your time and effort building this thread, just looking for a bit of advice. I've got an 84 gti cabby (on the Vin number it's a letter E 15ZEK) so I'm assuming it's an 84, with a DX engine. The fuse box is the ceramic type which I wasn't expecting as from what I have read cabby's from 82 onwards use ce1 type no? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway previous owner/s has/have done a complete hack job on the wiring and rather than trying to figure what they have done I'm thinking about upgrading the whole system. My question is should I go for a ce1 box or ce2 from a golf mk3. Haven't had much luck searching for cabby or mk2 fuse boxes. Here in Spain they're hard to come by, even mk3's. If I do go down the mk3 route would any model do for the wiring or should I be looking at mk3 gti model only. Thanks in advance for your time. Regards. p.s. on my current fuse box in plug A pin 8 there's nothing there.
yeah that definitly should have a ce1 fusebox so someone has been in there and swapped in the wrong fusebox, not a gti loom either with the missing A/8 pin and explains the hack job! CE1 or CE2 is up to you really, both work fine for what youi need it for. just if you go ce2 need to do a lot of work converting the loom to suit your car as the dash, lighting, fuel etc plugs will all be wrong. if you can find a ce1 mk1 or cab loom that'll be the best fit, later mk1 will still need a couple tweaks here and thewre but not end of the world. main thing is rear lights, plus if you have a lift pump in tank have to adapt the wiring for that too
Thanks for the reply, yeah I dunno why someone would downgrade their electrics, especially when the ceramic fusebox had problems in gti's. Either that or somehow they changed the vin number and the car is really from 1982. With regards to pin A/8 I'm wondering if it's empty as somewhere I read that VW had problems with the A/8 pin on ceramic fuseboxes because of the fuel pump relay for gti's which is why they were recalled to be fitted with a relocating bracket something that my car does have. Anyway again thanks for your input. Going to see if I can source one from a mk2 as mk1s over here in Spain were never officially sold they had to be imported so numbers are very limited.
yeah A/8 often burns out, VW supplied a recal kit but if it was a factory gti the pin would still be there unless it was removed manually pre-90 mk2 would be a decent donor for most of it, but the rear loom would need modification as well as your clock wiring and dash switches. you could fit pre-90 mk2 or scirocco clocks to solve that issue and the pre-90 mk2 stalk/ignition plugs will fit mk1 stalks and ignition switch at least. nothing too scary mostly just a case of match up the wire colours and go
Sorry my bad, the A/8 pin is on the fusebox, it's on the A plug that there is no wire coming from that pin. Since I have the entire interior out of the car including the dash I'm actually toying with the idea of fitting a mk2 dash with clocks and switches, all from the same donor car as the fusebox and loom, an 89 mk2 gti. But it's just an idea for now. Thanks again for your help.
help plase There are 99 cordoba I made a 1500 km road I came home I stopped half an hour later I went to the car the vehicle did not work despite trying many times it did not work, I looked a little, there is no ignition in the vehicle note: When the ignition is turned on, it clicks once, no other ignition
check ignition switch, the black wire on pin 15 should be live ignition on and the red to pin 30 is your permanent live. if you loop a bit of wire between the ignition should power up
Topladım ama çalışmıyor 15 pim boş https://hizliresim.com/tRLlmw https://hizliresim.com/N6xwuD https://hizliresim.com/XFYQq2 https://hizliresim.com/RblDmF
I mean the black wire to pin 15 on the back of the ignition switch, its on the back of the ignition lock/key switch