Hello, I have this fault code for a while now, do I need to change the sensor inside the distributor to remove this fault code? Can this fault code be stuck in ecu? Because car runs smooth with this fault code on ecu. Im asking because sensor inside of the distributor is not cheap.
yes this code is telling you either the hall sensor in the distributor is broken, or the wiring to it is bad. the ABF engine (assuming this is what you have) will run OK without it but with slightly less power and smoothness as it falls back to a safer fuel map and batch fire injection rather than fully sequential since it doesnt know which TDC stroke seen by the crank sensor is cylinder 1 or cylinder 4 heres the wiring diagram: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/vw-abf-digifant-3-current-flow-diagram.283287/
Hmmm that explains why i am missing my full 110kw right? And im not good with electric stuff, can I somehow check the wires with multimeter?
and about a year ago we tried to solder the internals of that sensor, but the fault code was still there and nothing changed, so I thought that maybe the fault code is stuck in ECU, but I guess I need to change the whole sensor, or check the wiring somehow
if you have vagcom you can use it to clear the fault codes, most aftermarket scanners should have this option also. it wont clear by itself to check the wiring you put the multimeter into continuity/resistance/beep mode. so the display shows 1 with the leads off, then goes to 0 and/or beeps when the probes are touched. then you put a lead either end of each wire to see if the wires check out
we tried clearing it many times, comes back instantly, you attached a link, is it a 5th diagram? and do i need to put one end on the distributor and the other one next to ecu? sorry for dumb questions
ok so yep using the diagram put 1 multimeter probe to distributor pin 1, the other to ecu pin 33 (its a little hard to follow this in the diagram, but pin 1 is sensor earth which runs to a crimped joint '220' in the loom, then back to the ecu) dizzy pin 2 to ecu pin 44, pin 3 to pin 45
yes, Its hard for me to understand diagrams, so Ill try to put multimeter probes where you told me to, with pin 1 and pin 33 pin 1 is black pin 33 is red probe, does it matter if I change probes with the other ones?
I dont think ill be able to check if wires are okay due to ecu being secured pretty well in its place, i cant reach wires coming to ecu and I dont want to mess with them too much, maybe I should just go for new sensor
you can check across the outer 2 pins for voltage on the distributor plug, that will tell you if those 2 wirers are ok. no way to check the middle signal pin back to the ecu though without a multimeter though unless you unplug the ecu this thread will help you if you want to go ahead and replace the sensor its basically the same distributor: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...ace-the-oil-seal-in-a-16v-distributor.190271/
how do I check the voltage of the outer 2 pins? I dont need to do anything with a wire in the middle? And also is 8v and 16v distributor different? Do you have their codes?
put the multimeter on voltage mode put the red probe to the red/black pin and black probe to the brown/white pin and switch on the ignition, you should see 5v or 12v unfortunately ABF distributor is specific to this engine, though the hall sensor inside is probably the same as a kr/9a one. possibly same as 8v type also but etka doesnt list a part number for the abf sensor so its hard to confirm. probably more that VW dont consider the abf sensor replaceable though
I might get a whole distributor for free tomorrow, one guy said he has one, it came from a 16valver, he doesnt know if its good or not, but if I pay for postage its mine, so I dont have nothing to lose, cheapiest option for now
just need to make sure its an ABF one, as the kr/9a one is no good to you. the sensor inside may swap but thats about it
What are kr and 9a engines? And if that distributor wont be from 16v i mmight swap the sensor only, right?
1.8 and 2.0 16v mk2/corrado/passat. easy to tell as the bolt holes for fixing it to the head are slotted for adjustment, and the distributor cap clips on. for the abf the holes dont allow for adjustment and the cap screws in place
Understood, will have a look at the pictures tomorrow of that distributor, and do you know if hall sensor is the same for 8v and 16v? Because you told me that whole distributor is different
it may be but I'm not sure, as I say VW dont list a part number for the 16v hall sensor only 8v version. but this may be becasue you arent supposed to replace it, as per the 16v oil seal replacement thread I linked earlier its pretty difficult to do so compared to 8v other thing about abf disszy cap is the leads poke out at an angle rather than straight out as on older 16v so very obvious difference to look for
Well hopefully that distributor is from 16v and is working fine haha, more power and fuel economy would be nice to have
