Hello guys I am newbe her on the site and from denmark, so my english is not perfect . Have som question about the swap im doing, I have read yours threads, need som others suggestion, crank breath at the front, can i use that housing end do a block in to a hose. And question about a dizzy fram 2h engine to aaa/agg, will it fit, i found something where they wrote that a engine with digifant can use dizzy to agg engine buttom. And have a question about transmission from 2h engine(aug) vs golfmk3 Aba/agg (che)transmision. Can i use the 5 gear from che to aug, i need lover rpm in 5 coase freeway.
1. If you swap the ISV and breather connections over on the inlet and inlet boot, you can use the OEM MK3 breather hoses. I used a bit of plastic pipe cut off a mk3 golf, pushed that to the inlet boot hole then pushed the breather pipe over the top of it. Can find some pics of my 1st and 2nd attempts at breather plumbing here: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...-then-abf-now-abf-management-widetrack.85893/ 2. use a MK3/SEAT 2.0 8v 2E code dizzy You may even be able to swap the 4 window trigger wheel from the 2H dizzy to the AGG/ADY type dizzy to convert it 3. The 5th gears will swap over fine
Ok i Will take a look at breather on The old one and 2h, to make it work. About dizzy, i found that the If you have a digifant on so Will dizzy from 2h bolt on with out issues. Transmision, cool, i Will swap the 5 gear over to my agu gearbox. Many thanks Rubjonny
2H dizzy is too small to fit the 2.0 block, this is why you use the 2E code dizzy. Straight fit, works with 2H ECU or as I say, before you spend any money could see if you can fit the 2H trigger wheel into MK3 dizzy (2h & 2e has 4 windows, AGG/ADY has 1 window) another option is swap the 2.0 gear to 2h dizzy and find an adaptor ring to fit the block, TSR make them here but I'm sure you can find some more locally as well
I took my engine out the car and removed almost everyting from it, cleand op and paint it. I am taking the head and intake at work to wash it. And have to paint at Home. Intake and exaust holes, What to do, or leave it like they are. The dizzy from my 2h engine diddnt work on the 2.0 agg block. I took and switched the 4 Windows wheel from my dizzy to agg dizzy. Later at the week, probably the engine Will be complet. And the tranny is for next, switching the 5 gear from che trany to mine aug. And cleaning and painting. Sorry no pictures. Cant upload
And I still have some issues with a crank and rocker cover breath hoses. Can i take both of Them and connect those 2 hoses and lead Them out.
Worst case you can get a breather blanking kit, this is the route many people take as it saves a lot of work. On the MK1 engine its not as easy to get the block breathers routed nicely as it is on the mk2 thats for sure! You can get breather valves with 2 outlets offset from each other though, those might help you. Say something like this, the straight hose 'F' routed to the oem inlet hose and the other one routed to the block outlet: https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-2-0l-pcv-valve-16885.html but yeah, you could blank it off and see how you go first. if it runs nice without excessive crank pressure then all is well
with the head ports, a little bit of port matching on the manifolds is easy enough and can give good results. head porting a bit more involved so do lots of research before you decide to break out the cutting tools!
I did a port matching and it looks fine now. Put the head on the block back now, and set the timing marks. But timing bedt cant fit. It fit Nice on vrang and on the wheel for dizzy, but the cam pulley no. About a one tooth difference. And If i install timing belt on, and turn the crank 2 times around, then timing marks is a halv tooth difference. Can i fine ajust on a dizzy.
did you use the 2.0 8v timing belt? with the cam the smallest movement you can do is a tooth either way, so if its only a tooth out move it a tooth to correct. dont worry about the dizzy marks on the belt side just make sure rotor arm is lined up to the notch on the dizzy housing, that will be close enough for it to fire up and you fine tune it later with a timing gun. Try to use the punch marker on the flywheel rather than the crank pulley mark as its more accurate, and the damped crank pulleys can slip out of alignment
Yes i used a 2.0 timing belt. Its a longer den 1.8. When turning 2 times on the crank and timing marks set, Its a only half tooth difference on the cam pulley away from where Should be. And i dont have a fly wheel on yet. Can i use a timing belt lowest cover to find a marks.
if its less than a tooth out thats as close as you're going to get make sure belt tension is good (about 1/2 twist on the front section between cam and dizzy sprocket) then carry on. As long as you've confirmed piston #1 is at the top of the bore when the crank pulley marks line up you're fine, a 2.0 8v I worked on several years back I found the timing marker had slipped near 90 degrees!
if you have enough posts you can host them on the foum direct, otherwise you need to put them on an image host and post them that way
I assembly the engine and back ind the car. I Saw on the fly wheel, two marks. The 1 like arrow and other like 0. If i turn the pulleys and set the timing marks on the belt, the mark on the flywheel showing is the arrow. Is it ok or Should it be at 0 mark.
the timing mark for Top Dead Centre when lining up the timing belt is the small 0 or punch mark, so see where the cam is lining up when the TDC marker is lined up. The larger arrow is used when adjusting the ignition timing