Golf Mk2 20vt

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by jshep73, May 22, 2019.

  1. Mk2daz

    Mk2daz Paid Member Paid Member

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    Was doing my AGU to ce1 loom recently and there was no clutch switch wiring, don't think the DBC cars care for em'
     
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  2. jshep73 Forum Member

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    AUM definitely have them??? Woah ok well I haven't got one. I'm not convinced it would cause a high idle though (no information to support this though!)

    If this is the case there must be loads of 20vt engine conversions with a high idle ?! On the basis that many people that do a hydro clutch conversion don't put a clutch switch onto the new pedalbox?!

    Blah blah I don't know what I'm chatting about anymore
     
  3. cupracraig

    cupracraig Paid Member Paid Member

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    AGU does not have a clutch switch
     
  4. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    20210727_124118.jpg this is what I'll be doing with mine for switch.
    Sure in the mk4 wiring guide it's also mentioned about the clutch switch causing odd high idle if not connected even without cruise.
     
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  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    dbc only have clutch and brake switches wired if it has cruise control, all dbw have clutch switch and 4 pin 'cruise' brake switch regardless if cruise is fitted or not. the clutch switch isnt there for automatic ecu though obviously (possibly why some are ok and some not?)

    to bypass the clutch switch you can give white/red at ecu pin 39 ignition live, but I just wire them in whenever I make looms now. to get the mk4 switch fitted you have to file out some 'ears' on the cruise clutch switch hole on the mk2/corrado/passat pedal box same as the brake switch. or you can find an ibiza 20v clutch switch thats nut and thread style fit same as mk2 golf snd it fits directly. cruise switch isnt same as brake switch as it works the opposite way round, cruise switch is is closed when pedal NOT pressed, brake switch is closed when its pressed.

    also for the cruise brake light switch the 2 internal switches work the opposite way round, so when brake switch is not pressed the yellow/white wire sends 12v to ecu. plus to properly bypass the brake switch you need to earth the black/red wire since the ecu pin is earthed via the brake lights when pedal isnt pressed. though dont think this one will cause any running issues
     
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  6. jshep73 Forum Member

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    Cheers RJ, so to test if my issue is clutch switch related I can connect ecu pin 39 to an ignition live and see if my idle drops?
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yup, that will simulate clutch not pressed
     
  8. jshep73 Forum Member

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    Gotcha - I will give it a go! I've not looked at the ECU plug much I assume it is pretty obvious where pin 39 is? And it SHOULD be white/red you say

    Started the car last night with the throttle unplugged and it sits at 800rpm. I then plugged in each of the 3 pedals and revved the car and everytime it idles at 1200rpm but if you pull the pedal up it drops to 800rpm again.
     
  9. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Gonna sound daft, pedal not catching on plastic trim? Had to chop mine for clearance.
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the plug is numbered on the outside, plus if you slide out the purple retainer on the end the pin holders pop out the back and those are numbered also :)
     
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  11. jshep73 Forum Member

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    It was last week but I moved it over for clearance. And the 3 pedals last night weren't even bolted in, I just had them in my hand!
     
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  12. jshep73 Forum Member

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    Thanks fella, I will try it later!
     
  13. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    There's no spring missing, that would be mounted on the pedal box?
     
  14. jshep73 Forum Member

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    I see what you mean but no, the pedal/spring is all in one
     
  15. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    It just seems bizarre that on all 3, lifting the pedal a little bit drops the Idle. If you put an extra spring on, would that fix it?
     
  16. jshep73 Forum Member

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    Well I connected ecu pin 39 to live and no difference to idle.

    Nice idea Tristan... maybe if I had a stronger spring it would push the pedal up further. Although all 3 pedals feel like they are at the top of travel - when I say I pull them up to lower the idle i mean 2-3mm max.

    I am convinced the wiring for the plug is faulty. My next plan is to use a piece of wire and connect each throttle wire directly to where if goes 1 at a time and see if the idle moves. Or if it drops to 800rpm when I switch engine off and back on.
     
  17. jshep73 Forum Member

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    My thanks to @Smithdog84 who suggested loosening the 4 screws on the throttle pedal which allows adjustment to the idle.

    Seems to have done the trick, car is now running as close to perfect as I could hope for. I'm surprised this isn't common knowledge although it seems to be a rare issue. A mate told me he thinks it's abit of a bodge as I haven't found the route of the problem. But meh... I'm happy at the moment!

    Just in time for Retro Rides on Sunday... will post some photos next week

    Cheers
     
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  18. jshep73 Forum Member

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    No post for months so quick update for anyone interested…

    Pipework tidied up and new gear cable ends:

    SS3.jpg


    Cloud 9 catch can kit installed:

    SS2.jpg


    Really haven’t touched the car much over winter, I’m pretty happy with it at the moment! Running very well and not leaking any oil or water. A few times when idling warm engine I have some white smoke (not blue/black). Only intermittently though and only when engine fully up to temp. Not sure what to make of that yet, something not quite right though.

    I seem to be in the habit of using the car once in midweek and a then a couple of times at the weekend. My office is about 1 mile from home so I don’t use it to commute – however the office is moving soon so might become my 20 mile roundtrip daily!

    Went to Coleford Carnival of Transport last weekend, pretty sure my car was the only Golf there! Good show though, especially for free. I parked with my bonnet up and had lots of people asking about the engine, spec etc which was nice – most attention I’ve ever had at a show by far.

    ss5.jpg

    Still rocking the steelies at the moment!

    Few bits on my to do list:

    Offside front and rear side lights, fuse 7 blows. Must be shorting somewhere, needs investigation

    Fuel gauge not working, I’m running the tank empty to remove the pump (full jerry can in boot) Rubjohnny did advise of a wiring mod on the Mk4 pump when I installed, but it has never been right. When tank is full the gauge reads half. Well it did, now it doesn’t work at all.

    Side skirts do not sit correct, slightly sagging on one side too. I want to remove them and fix on correctly. Can anyone confirm OEM way of fixing them? I believe there is plastic tabs on the back of the skirt which are then bonded to the sill and then a 10mm bolt each end?!

    Dawned on me the other day that the throw of the shifter is quite long. Looking at options to shorten it. A few products on the market including an actual new gear shifter or the likes of Forge do a quick shift that fits in place of the shift weight ontop of the gearbox. And Dieselgeek do a full on upgrade including cable ends. $219 plus postage. Has anyone tried it? Still mulling this over…

    Some other upgrades coming soon too!!!

    Cheers all
     
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  19. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Is it a mk3 tank ? I've just took a pump unit out of old tank I had, I'm down your way on 7th May if any use.
     
  20. jshep73 Forum Member

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    Thanks Dodgy
    Mk3 tank, Mk4 pump
    Works great, just nothing showing at fuel gauge
    Someone has ground off the securing tabs on the inside of the tank which I believe a Mk3 pump uses. So I have a Mk4 pump which just gets screwed onto tank
     
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