Golf MK2 OEM+ Headlights

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by NateS2, Oct 31, 2020.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    switch is 3A0947561A, boot 3A0947565 and plug 357947231. plug takes standard 2.8mm latched spades :)

    the boot is the hard bit to get, switch and plug avail on ebay. parts only listed for passat though. maybe a3 has similar will check
     
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  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok so done some more digging. A3 rear door has switch 8D0947561B, similar but rather than nice plug housing its got 2 bare spades on it. boot is 893947565A, boot & switch look similar but are more rounded at the bottom where passat ones above are pointy.

    boot 893947565A is also listed for passat, but not for the passat part number above. The roundy type boot fits passat switch 3A0947561 which is the same shape as the a3 one but more square at the bottom and still has the nice 2 pin plug same as 3A0947561A
     
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  3. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks John! :) do you think he A3 style switch would fit better? Looks more of similar shape to the Mk2 standard one
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Not tried an A3 switch so not sure how well they fit, the b4 ones definitely do and I prefer the look of them because of the nice plug housing but that's just my wiring OCD :lol:
     
  5. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    I only looked on nemigma parts, was 2 part numbers listed for boot, 893947565a and 3a0947565, on the application list A3 , A4 and more came up, that's as far as I've gone with it.
    RJ, loads more info and brill
     
  6. davidut5 Forum Member

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    Fitted a b4 switch wired to L2, work as it should. The buzz is very annoying thou!
    I noticed that with rear door opened, when i open front door too, the light gets brighter. Old wires i guess.
    One more thing, added a switch on trunk lid tied with front ones with a diode. If i open trunk, trunk light is on but front interior light to. If i open doors trunk light is off because of the diode. What can i do to work separate but grounds tied togheter on the alarm trigger?
     

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  7. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    You would have to find where the fronts connect up to the alarm. You can then fit a diode between the alarm and the front switches, with the "stripe" facing the front switches. Then, take your wire from the the trunk switch, and connect it to the alarm with another diode, again with the "stripe" facing the switch. That would make everything work independently.
     
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  8. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    As for my project, I've recently had a "few" parts arrive from TE:
    Connectors.jpg
    These had an average speed of around 170 MPH from when I clicked order to when they arrived to the UK... Which fell to approximately 3 MPH on their way from the depot to me [:[]

    Finding all of the correct connectors in correct sizes was a HUGE headache and not something I want to repeat, however it should mean the end result is as OEM as possible with no splicing. Again, TE have been beyond helpful and saved me a load of time. I've also got one of those 10 tonne hydraulic crimpers for eBay, as I didn't fancy doing 4 AWG phosphor bronze sleeves by hand.:lol:

    For loom protection, I've decided on Tesa 51608 PET fleece tape for the inside sections, and Tesa 51026 PET cloth for the engine bay stuff. No real reason for the brand choice, except its cheap and readily available.

    I've also found an Italian company that may be able to source the door switch boots new, for a good price. I was speaking to them before Christmas but they having a lot of issues over there so they're going to get back to me in the new year hopefully!

    EDIT: If anyone is interested I can see about getting a neat drawing done
     
  9. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    So after vastly underestimating how long wiring takes, we have the almost the finished article!
    IMG_4401 - Copy.jpg IMG_4402 - Copy.jpg IMG_4399 - Copy.jpg

    Some in progress shots, old the old connectors removed and cleaned up
    IMG_4388 - Copy.jpg IMG_4393 - Copy.jpg

    Chinese Hydraulic crimpers being put to use doing the big crimps
    IMG_4396 - Copy.jpg IMG_4360 - Copy.jpg

    The are some more pictures to follow but you'll note that only half of the room is wrapped with tape, which is for the very good of: I ran out [:D] I was also one short of the large barrel crimps that's used to splice the passenger lights, battery feed and radiator fan wires together. Once I get that I'll crimp it up and get some pictures of the RBK-3 shrink tubing I'm using too.
    I do also need to get the style of ring terminal that is compatible with the hydraulic crimpers, got the normal type but my ratcheting crimpers aren't up to the job to do it neatly on 6mm2. I've got the same issue for the fuse box end with the spade terminals.

    Changes over stock are:
    • All standard 1.5mm2 wire for the lights has been replaced with new, correct colour, 2mm2 thin walled wire.
    • All bare copper connectors have been replaced with correct plated ones
    • Totally new earth. Original 4mm2 earth has been removed and replaced with a 6mm2 one. All the lights on the passenger side are tied in near the battery as per factory. For the drivers side, a 4mm2 earth has been ran down the chassis leg to the lights, to replace the original 1.5mm2 one. I've also moved the brake fluid earth so it no longer runs the length of the loom, and totally removed the specific headlight earth from the fusebox.
    • The original 6mm2 power feed has been retained, but I have also added a second 6mm2 power feed from a MK4 golf which will be used specifically for lighting
    • Inner spot lights now run off of there own 2mm2 feeds going into a new 3 pin plug on the harness. This replaces the factory setup of them piggy backing from the headlights.
    A combination of Tesa PET tape, self amalgamating tape for loom spurs and black electrical tape have been used to keep it looking OEM.

    EDIT: Big thank you to @Flipp_76 for helping me source a Scandinavian light switch, will be picking it up from Norway when Covid allows
     

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  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    looking good :)
     
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  11. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers :) Managed to get it fitted at the weekend, getting those bungs through the firewall is a pain
     

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