Golf mk3 electric window switch

Anyone knows the wiring of the dashboard power window switch 1-8 the pins to where they connect? I found the electric wiring diagram but the switch doesn't have that much info on it.
In the mean time I'm trying to search on how to connect the rear window dash switch to the front power windows.

Thanks

 

Hello,

The master switch in the dash shouldn't have any effect on the front windows. In fact, cars with elec. front windows only may not even be provided with a connector for the master switch - if they are, it'll be behind the dash, above the top of the pedal box. A short length of additional wiring would be used to reach the switch

I don't have my notes handy, but the dash switch is in three parts; left rear 'remote', safety cut-out, and right rear 'remote'. Each 'remote' switches a wire leading to a rear door window control pcb; connecting it to Ground is the 'down' signal, connecting to 12v is 'up'. The cut-out is simply an on/off connection to ground through the switch, with it Off the rear door switches are locked-out

Am I right in thinking that you'd like to use the dash switch to control the front windows, or those of a 2-door?. A problem with that might be the drivers' side, which doesn't have a 'remote' switch, unlike the other door(s). On the passenger side, you could connect the relevant control wire from the dash switch to the wire crossing the bulkhead from the drivers' side (basically adding another remote switch in parallel with part of the double switch in the drivers' door), but the drivers' window switch won't have a wire coming into the car, it would have to be led into the door from the dash switch, i.e. you'd have to run a wire from the dash switch through to the drivers' door switch

Re. your query about pictures; I'm afraid that I'm not all that computer-savvy, or much of a photographer

 

No worries about the pictures Dougie. I have a 2 door mk3 in which i purchased the electric window motors and haven't found the loom for it so i've made the wiring my self at that time to control the windows from the electric switches in the door handles to the motors. They work after 3seconds when i press the switch down/up but they work. Now instead of controlling the motors from the door handles i want to control them from the dash rear switch in which i remove the door switches and only use the dash switch.
I found the wiring diagram to detail but the dash switch doesn't have that much work in it. If only i found what those 8 pins of the dash switch do exactely i can process with my project.
For the door switches i only used wires directly connected to the motor and ignition switch and door ground connection.

 

Jeffrey,

It seems to me that the window motors may not be compatible with the dash switch - as with the door-mounted switches, it's meant to signal to a control pcb attached to the motor, and only uses one wire to do so, i.e. it doesn't actually pass the motor current itself (a relay on the pcb does that). A switch which directly controls the motor has two wires to the motor, with another four to power and ground, to allow for each direction. If you have this type, I'm afraid the factory dash switch won't be able to link in

As to which type of motor you've got, the factory ones have a large 15-pin connector, with a sliding lock. That 3 second delay makes me wonder if you have these, with the 'central operation' (from the external key cylinder) being used in place of the interior switches

 

Yes i only connected like 5 wires on each motor of the 15 pins which only connect to supply, negative, up and down supply and i think another negative. I'll try to figure something out then Dougie.

Thanks for the info

 

They are the original equipment type, then. With a little thought, we should be able to link up the dash switch. I'll have to consult my wiring notes, though, and get back to you

As a start, though, using the interior switches will need two power supplies, one permanent and one 'live' with the ignition On. Then we can connect your passenger side of the dash switch to your passenger side pcb, and the driver side of it to the driver side pcb. Adding a couple of safety lines may be wise, too, to shut off the switches with the ignition Off

 

Yes, that what i was thinking. But i'm trying to trace the switch connections to the switch pins first to see which button is to which switch pin. Refering to the dash switch.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/91zNeBMdvthPVN7C9

 

I've dug up my notes, so here are the connections for the dash switch;

Pin 1 - Ground
Pin 2 - Right side control wire (remote)
Pin 3 - Supply side of cut-out switch (not needed for your installation?)
Pin 4 - #58 12v supply for switch illumination
Pin 5 - Ground for switch illumination
Pin 6 - Ground side of cut-out switch (again, not needed?)
Pin 7 - Left side control wire (remote)
Pin 8 - #30 continual 12v supply

As to the 15-pin pcb connector;

#30 continuous 12v on Pin 15
#15 Ignition On 12v on Pin 7 (& 13 in drivers' door)
Ground on Pin 1
Remote input from remote switch on Pin 11
'Lock' closure (from key cylinder in original wiring) on Pin 14
'Unlock' opening (as previous line) on Pin 8
Safety shut-down (when door is opened with the ignition Off) on Pin 12

The last of these uses a Brown-yellow wire, and is grounded through the drivers' door* 'B' pillar contact switch via the White adaptor block

* That's for the u.k. though. Territories with l/h steering may well use a different trace colour. In the u.k. the dedicated l/h front door pillar switched ground uses Brown-green.

 

Been searching for this information for months !

Thanks Dougie i'll let you know if the project works

 

Thanks rubjonny !

 

I've came to a point where i connected the dash switch to the motor without any relays, just wires to an external battery only. The switch works but only from pin 7 (UP) button only. The down button doesn't have any voltage coming on it. As you said it may need a relay to operate. I'll try to either custom the switch or figure it out with relays

 

Hold on,

I don't see the use of adding any additional relays; you've already got the crucial control units, the printed circuit boards attached to the motors. Each board has a relay, which can operate the motor in each direction. The system outside of the pcb's is simply wiring and switches.

The circuit boards can be regarded as 'nodes' or 'hubs', each of which controls its own motor, and which can signal to other boards. The control inputs to each board consist of;

• the external 'key' inputs, which you've been using up to now (one for Close/Lock, one for Open/Unlock)
• the internal switch inputs, both 'local', which can be locked-out for safety (on rear doors)
• and 'remote', which we're chasing here, from the dash switch
• a safety shut-off, which stops the motor(s) if closing, and locks-out the switch inputs

The switch inputs each use only a single wire - pulling it up to 12v is seen as an 'up' input by the circuit board, while pulling it down to ground (0v) is the 'down' input. This may be why you didn't detect anything when pressing down.

I'd check the dash switch for continuity - Pins 2 (right) and 7 (left) should have continuity with 12v (pin 8) when their respective switches are pressed for 'up', changing to continuity with Ground (pin 1) when pressed for 'down'. The contact blades and pads inside the switch can be cleaned if necessary.

If you'd prefer to check with a voltmeter or test lamp, connect this between 12v and the switch line to check for the 'down' switching; if the down contact is okay, it'll ground the line, creating a circuit.

Each switch line connects to its circuit board at pin 11. The board responds to the switch with the ignition On, and for a while after switching off, provided the drivers' door remains closed. The switches are also locked-out if the car is locked using the key input.

 

While I had the switch into pieces and testing it I ended up runnin 2 wires through the switch up to the center on the buttons for 12V up and 12V down. Then i soldered 4 wires to every button directing to the motor to indicate up and down by separate wire. And taking pin 5 to ground and I forgot if I took pin 8 from switch aswell to 12V supply. Now everything works just i need to loosen up the contacts because everything is stressed in the switch that you have to make a huge amount of force to press the up button but at least it worked

 

Hello i know its not really topic but i connected my el. Windows like you Jeffrey in my vw mk3 3 door without inner instalation wires for the window and they work but when i press down or up then only go 5 cm at the time evry time i press wtf haha can you tell me how did you connected wires?

 

Hahahaha thank you so much i will try that

 

I tried that and still it stops evry 5cm so i take out window motor and tried runing it without regulator with no load on it and it just makes half of circle evry time i press switch so new window motor? Or i can fix it somehow haha?