had my Jetta on the road for a few weeks now, and overall its been pretty good. here's what ive done to it before i go into what my problem(s) is(are).. head stripped, cleaned and rebuilt, all new top end gaskets and manifolds cleaned and refitted too (new cambelt too of course) GTI 026G stamped cam G60 manifold to (What im guessing) is a MK3 8V downpipe K-jetronic distributor set 125mm BTDC (6 degrees as EV engine) new leads, plugs, rotor arm (need to sort a new cap as i was given the wrong one) GTI 8V rad (New) new oil and filter, and fuel filter Pierburg 2E2 carb, rebuilt and set up by bromyard VW - all new vac hoses too new air filter new carb base flange (not genuine but good quality - rubbex or somthing) new coolant temp sensor new fuel pump on the front of the engine the problem im getting is that the car is very hard to start, its like its not getting fuel as you push the accelerator a bit and it comes to life. sometimes it will miss and run 3 or less for a few seconds and then it will be alright.. the car idles from around 800 to 1100 (not fluctuating but this is when warm and up to temp, sometimes it will be high and sometimes low) the idle on the car is not rough but it can be a little lumpy and the big issue is sometimes it wont idle, foot on the pedal and it will be fine, but take it off and it will run low about 400 ish then die (mostly at junctions..) if you put your foot to the floor in a low gear as so you don't take off (4th of 5th) it will then idle again.. sometimes if you walk around the car there's a whiff of fuel.. sometimes.. the car itself runs pretty warm.. on the motorway where it should sit in the middle it sits just above 3/4. the fan kicks on but it wont go back to the middle (nor will it get higher) on the move the car runs great. its pretty fast and revs up nicely, its returning 38mpg on a run and about 25 around town (which is pretty good ive been told) does anyone have any idea into what i should be looking at and checking? as above Most things are new and the carb was meant to be set up and perfect (sometimes it runs like its meant to) the thoughts i have are: wax stat maybe for the weird high and low idle? maybe a small fuel leak somewhere? im pretty much stuck there.. im pretty competent with the spanners (its my job) but i don't have any experience with this carb set up ive racked up about 600 miles in the past 4 days and its been getting better but its still stalling at junctions and obviously running hot! and idling at odd points! does anyone have any ideas? ive been looking through the 2E2 FAQ and in the general carb FAQ but i cant find anyone with a problem like this! any help is appreciated! Cheers
Have you been along the bottom of the fusebox checking all the fuses? The overrun/cutoff solenoid valve on the back of the carb sounds like it might be involved. If this isn't getting 12V it won't like to idle (when warm) without help from the right foot. Valve itself is probably fine, but you may have popped a fuse that feeds it or had a wire break (check inside rubber boot of connector).
I have been fiddling with the fuse box removing a dead alarm! Il take a look at that then as it's intermittent I'd say a connection may be loose down there!
okay il give the wiring a look tomorrow, im guessing with engine movement a loose connection would make sense! there is a click when the ignition is turned on, but i guess there are two solenoids so il have a good look and peel all the boots back tomorrow! the fuse (17 on ce1 i believe) is all fine and the fuse box is in good shape and has no water damage
check the 3/4 point unit, it should be fully extended when engine off and is responsible for giving a bit of throttle when starting. watch how it moves as engien is started it should stay out for a couple seconds at least, if it retracts to running or over-run position immediately check the vac pipes again and the 2 valves round the back plus check they both have ignition live and earth as above. Some nicly coloured pics of the vac line layout in my 2e2 faq thread, its easy to get em mixed up as theres a lot of gubbins back there! what fusebox is it, ce1 or ce2?
Another possibility - if you find no wiring problem near the valve - is that you have the full overrun throttle-closing system on your car, and it is misbehaving, maybe because the control unit is bust, or maybe it isn't getting a good rpm signal. On a CE1 car the control unit will be above the main block of relays, in position 22, I think. My car didn't have this set-up, so the solenoid valve was directly grounded, and on/open whenever the ignition was switched on. Here's some VW info on the control unit:
it clicks when the ignition is on.. i don't own a multimeter just a power probe and it seems to be getting power.. unfortunately i have bigger issues! is that the relay on top of the fuse box? i was testing that a while ago and it seemed fine! i do have a spare coil i could test to make sure its getting the right RPM signal.. also the vac lines were done by bromyard vw and are assumed to be correct!
it seems to be loosing its idle less often nowadays.. so im not sure! it all seems okay! im more concerned about the starting where it runs like turd for a few seconds and really struggles to start!
Your car does not have that control unit. Mine did not either. It is not necessary, but was fitted to some Mk2 Golfs and other VWs with Pierburg 2e2 carbs, to improve fuel economy. I think the extra complication cost more, so they stopped using that system at some time, and just had the overrun/cutoff valve permanently connected to ground/0V, instead of switching it with this 61 unit.
best thing to do is bin the pierburg and fit a Weber best mod i ever did, runs far better now and i get way better fuel economy from it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5hEPXTpKvw&feature=share&list=UUcnbmeSe1K8z9OF2TKwbYbw another video..
new red temp sender (for auto choke as i have early flanges) and it seems better.. sometimes idles low when starting from warm, but cold start is as it should!
new dizzy cap and rotor cleaned up. coupled with the red Temp sender i mentioned above... fixed! i sense the dirty dizzy cap meant the rotor couldn't give out power the the spark plugs correctly
Glad to hear you've got it sorted. Looks like another example of "Most 'carburettor problems' are ignition problems". Someone famous said that; not sure who.
after replacing everything EXCEPT the cap and the fact it was'nt missing or anything i sorta assumed all was good!
