Guide on how to make carbon fibre/fiber car parts (ITB trumpets)

Cheers Nige.

 

Top thread mate, nice one.

 

wicked guide, just one thing i feel should be pointed out.
avoid splinters, unlike wood and GRP/fibreglass the body does not reject the carbon fibres

 

do the stacks just simply slide into the bodies? any fixing??

 

another

how did you make the templates

 

Smudge, Im sticking this drawing in here, hope you dont mind, it explains how to arrive at the optimum bell mount radius shape if the diameter is known.

 

Good bit of info there, on a note my bells taper to match the taper of the ITB's body.

 

also helps to remove the plug too? Even if it's not 100% neccesary , a slight taper helps to separate the finished product from the mould/plug , right?

 

Yep helps alot to get the two seperated.

 

Any long term issues with petrol contacting the C/F mate? I'm looking at making an intake mani from C/F for the rally car, but I'm concerned about it breaking down and softening...

 

http://www.profblairandassociates.com/pdfs/RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf

few more details on that website.
I spoke to a composite tech in Uni and he said using a fibreglass resin was just stupid and you might aswell just use the epoxy one if your going through the whole effort. plus more details on the interaction between the resin and firbe.

 

That's probably because he's 'borrowing' it from work, rather than paying for his own

 

Of course, but i've had the phrase if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing properly drilled into my head. I try and avoid pikeying things as much as poss. but ye ya know on a tight budget there are short cuts that can work. and my car is covered in slightly pikey mods etc.

 

Agreed, but the standard that makes it 'proper' or not should be 'fit for intended purpose' rather than 'ultimate spec'.

 

brillaint work looks perfect ! how much did all those agents/wax set you back , i've checked the website out , just after a rough price for all the other stuff needed then i figure out how much of the cloth i'd need ,


Cheers Joe

 

looks great, just always make sure that your resin can take the heat and chemicals, pretty sure petrol is a solvent for some polyester resins, epoxy is more durable but check the temp ranges. with ram pipes it's more heat soak that's a problem ans they are air cooled once the car is running

 

I agree with what you are saying, and I recommended people use epoxy earlier in the thread, I have remade these parts with an epoxy resin, I use West Systems - it smells less and has a much longer cure time which helps when laying up.

As I said GRP resin is good for visual none structual/important parts that will not come into contact with oil/petrol. I only used polyester resin in the orignal post as it was all i had and i was experimenting on the cheap.

Very valuable advice.

 

+ [

 

You sir, are a craftsman!

 

Just incase you ever feel the need, Henkel make a resin that will bond composite to alloy, or ti, but the alloy or ti must be anodised. I have spoke with Henkel many times about this very subject and they assured me it would be ok and went onto to say that they supply it to F1 for bonding the ti end plates (that carry the bearing shells in the gearbox) into the composite casing. Which, coincidentally, is what I want it for too down the line.
They couldn't of course tell me the current one they use but they did tell me the one they used last yr.
Ill dig out the p/n later as I looked at a million epoxys that I wondered would fit the bill.