Help fitting a Cobra 8510 Thatcham 2 immobiliser to a CE2 Mk2

Discussion in 'Security' started by 1990, Jan 23, 2015.

  1. 1990

    1990 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I've bought a Cobra immobiliser for my CE2 Mk2 but have a couple of questions about fitting it.

    Here's the diagram for it:

    [​IMG]

    First I need to find 2 suitable ignition lives.

    Second I need to find 2 suitable wires to break for the immobilisation. Would that be fuel pump and something to the ignition switch or are others more suitable?

    The rest is basic so I'll be able to do it lol
     
  2. 1990

    1990 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'll make a guide when I'm done.

    So far this is the kit, it was 34 off e-bay:

    [​IMG]

    These are the connections which come attached to an orange plug. The wires are all black but are labelled on the ends so they can be identified before fitting then secret once fitted:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  3. Trev16v

    Trev16v Paid Member Paid Member

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    Installations I've seen tend to cut the fuel pump supply and the starter solenoid supply from the ignition switch.

    I'd recommend using crimp terminals and connectors to make the installation as 'factory' as possible. For example one of the wires that cuts the fuel supply could have a terminal crimped into it and be fitted directly into the connector housing on the back of the fusebox. Far nicer than the regular job of splicing, soldering and taping like alarm installers tend to do.

    You're CE2, so:

    Permanent +12V (30) could be taken from fuseboard 'Y' terminal.

    For switched ignition live (15) there are potentially several spare terminals on the 'D' connector housing. Test with a multimeter to find a terminal that is indeed switched ignition live. http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775-Fusebox-FAQ
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
    1990 likes this.
  4. 1990

    1990 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I've used the fuel pump red/yellow on plug M as one immobiliser circuit.

    Would H1 4 - blk - ignition switch pin 15 (coil ignition live feed)
     
  5. 1990

    1990 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I fitted it yesterday and am really pleased it actually works lol

    I started off with a problem, I went to move the car from the drive into the garage and it ran out of petrol lol lol

    Which meant it was stranded here until I got a fresh can
    [​IMG]

    So once in the garage I first found a good hiding place for the control box
    [​IMG]

    I pulled the loom through the stereo hole and connected the wires 1 by 1
    [​IMG]

    I used the redundant stereo wires for the permanent live, ignition live and an earth. There were other earth and ignition lives in the same area which I used for the second circuit. I soldered them all nice and neatly before wrapping them up.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I used the fuel pump wire as the first immobiliser and the coil feed as the second. I took these from very near the fusebox so they would be harder to find. Any thieves should have no fuel or spark so if they do manage to steal the car fair play to them lol. These 2's are the markers for the second immobiliser circuit, I cut these off a couple of seconds before soldering so I didn't cock it up
    [​IMG]

    Finally I fitted the fob receiver in a 16mm hole on the dash
    [​IMG]

    And one of the fobs on my keyring
    [​IMG]

    Tested it and it works perfectly, if I don't touch the fob I get no fuel or spark. Touch the fob the red dasher goes out and I have 30 seconds to start the car before it arms again. Turn off after driving and 90 seconds later it arms itself.

    Easy as that :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015

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