Help needed with bike carb/trigger wheel/crank sensor on a DX engine install

Any backfires, or smell of fuel, could you just loosen a union and get someone to crank for a second to see if fuelling?
Used to have a hand soap dispenser with petrol in to put a squirt in carb mouths when messed with minis years ago, or a spray of wd40 even.
Could be 90° out possible?, swap the leads or the coil trigger wires.

 

Did you mark tdc on the bottom pulley, and shine a timing light on it while cranking?

 

Hello Tristan,

Yes done all of that and all of the basic engine checks, like I say i'm really scratching my head with it.

I bought the car as project and have been back over everything, the crank TDC mark has been checked against the flywheel marks, the cam timing is all correct.

I'm not a mechanic but have a good understanding of engines, I've rebuilt a couple of KR's in my time but not had many dealings with the 8v's.

It can only be fuel or timing and I haven't done anything mechanically to affect the fuel pump/fuel regulator to the carbs.

I just want the bugger on the road.

 

Checking with the strobe is ignition timing, but no matter. So the strobe flashes onto the tdc mark?
Definitely fire a squirt of juice down the inlets and see if it tries to go.

 

Right, I’ve made some progress…..

I’ve bought some easy start today and it has attempted to fire up so one of the wires from the hall sender/coil configuration must be needed to tell the car to start.

There are still three wires which did connect to the coil that are disconnected. A green, a black and a red/black.

looking on Cabby info.com the green was terminal 1 and the black is terminal 15 on the coil.

I know I can jump the pins on the fuel pump relay (which I will do to get it running in a minute) but I need to know what I should do for a permanent solution.

Is it something simple like connecting the black and the green?

 

After a day of messing it’s finally running again.

I’ve tried to jump the fuel pump across the two big pins but this is not letting the pump run constantly. I thought it would?

To get it operational in the short term, I’ve bolted the old coil back on (without HT leads) and connected the wiring back together between that, the TCU and the hall sender on the dizzy.

It’s finally firing up on the button and I can access the nodiz separately.

I need to get to the bottom of the wiring issue so all the extra cables can be removed but happy it’s starting on the button now


I think I’ll let a specialist sort the rest….

 

Why not just wire the fuel pump externally?

 

I don’t really fancy doing that, I had it switched on my old 16v conversion years ago and I burnt a pump out eventually.

it should be easy enough to bypass the coil once I have the tacho controller from the nodiz

 

Cheers Jonny,

I've got a feel that the wiring might have been altered but I've also got my head around the bypass solution as you mention.

My next battle is to stop it running like a bag of cr4p. Fuel filter change and checking for exhaust/inlet leaks is the next job.

 

A bit of an update on this post in case it helps anyone in the future.

I managed to get the car running pretty well a few months back and its finally been for a rolling road set up last week.

The wiring issues have been sorted, I'm still running the original wiring via the existing coil as this controls the fuel pump and rev counter but will shortly be replacing with a 3 or 4 way 30amp relay and an electronic output for the rev counter.

I found a handy youtube guide to setting up the Nodiz electronic ignition to get a base timing map set up and it ran ok-ish and was driveable for a month or so.

The rolling road tune at DanST engineering in Bradford was a complete success though and I'm finally enjoying the new found power.

The car did a base run and made 102bhp, however a morning spent fiddling with the electronic timing settings, carb jets and other things saw a final result of 122bhp/138 lb ft torque. The engine is a 1870cc overbore running 1999 Suzuki GSXR 600 SRAD carbs and a 4-2-1 manifold.

This was with a blowing/mismatched exhaust and 95 ron fuel (thanks to the fuel crisis) so with the new Jetex stainless system on its way i'm confident of a tiny bit more power.

Just a shame its taken until Autumn to sort but there is always next year to enjoy it properly.

 

Fair play for the update.