'Troublestarter'. First of all, if you're going to quote my posts, please ensure that my own text is properly quoted. Secondly, you have completely misread and misunderstood what I have said. Nobody is arguing with the fact that a door solenoid has to be used. If you go back and actually read it properly, word by word, you'll realise that my final conclusion is in agreement with what you just said: that the only way in practise is to use a solenoid in the door. The whole point of the discussion above, which you have failed to read properly and understand, is that the AI606 would have been able to have electrically driven the MK2's pump directly if only the AI606's central locking timing worked in accordance with Toad's documentation, which it appears not to. Is this really that hard to read and understand? Mookie: Use 1N4001.
Thanks! One final question, in regards the immobiliser wires I'm not 100% clear. Would I be correct in thinking that I cut the starter wire (as mentioned above) and splice in the two sets of immobiliser wires from the Toad as follows? Red wire to ignition > One wire from each immobliser circuit > One wire from each immobliser circuit > Red wire to fuse box
Thats correct, basicly the immobiliser is just a normaly open relay which is ''electronicly'' controled by the circuitry. Only when the immobiliser is disarmed does the relay close the circuit hense joining whatever the immobilisers wired into.
Ah right I see. Electrics are my big weak spot and I'm trying to fully understand how this system works before going anywhere near a soldering iron. I promised not to ask another questions but... in regards the alarm, would I be correct to assume that none of the switches are optional? In otherwords, when installed, the doors, boot, and bonnet switches MUST be wired up. If I wanted to temporarily bypass any of them, what would I do? I'm asking purely from the point of view of wanting to install this system gradually so I can check it works piece by piece - immobliser and ultrasonic sensors first, then switches afterwards.
Hi, you can run with the boot or bonnet plunges diconected, all they do is ground the wire from the alarm when open, so ensure the wires you are not using are wrapped and not grounding in anyway and that will be fine. You do need one of the door plungers wired in as this tells the alarm the door has been opened, without nowing if the drivers door has been opened the alarm will re-arm thinking it was accidently unarmed.
i agree with troublestarter and mr toad, i am also a certified installer and work hard to make cars secure. although you are to be applauded for fitting an alarm i do not agree how you have done it. the reason that installers are certified are that they fit the alarms to a certain standard, if i was to inspect your install for an insurance company (which i have done) it would not meet the standard and the claim would be turned down. toad alarms are cat1 certified but must be fitted by an approved installer, you may have filled in the paperwork and even sent it off, but in the event of a claim or even trying to obtain cheaper insurance you will be out of luck, and if you pretend you are a certified installer its obtaining goods by deception, try getting insurance after that. they dont need much excuse to refuse to pay out.
Lets not scaremonger on the thread but add some useful input how and what in your opinion would need to be altered/changed so that it would pass your inspection?
im not scaremongering, bad people steal cars, insurance companies dont like paying out. FACT. for an alarm to pass the thatcham tests it MUST cut the power to at least two circuits usually starter and fuel pump. just cutting the starter circuit is pointless car can still be bump started, and as most theives would push a car down the road anyway before they tried to start them you may as well not have bothered. at the end of the day i am in buisness and see badly fitted alarms regularly this is why the certification is essential so insurers can base what they will charge it also stops anybody buying alarm not even fitting it and just filling paperwork out to get cheap insurance. by all means fit an alarm yourself, follow instructions protect your property from scum, but dont say it will reduce your insurance because it wont without correct paperwork its not the fitting i am getting at apart from only cutting the starter, you must cut power to fuel pump as well, its the insurance angle you mentioned.
I agree with cutting the fuel pump, injectors, coil etc and have so said that earlier in the thread, my car has two seperate circuits immobilsed and neither is the starter. I never mentioned what they were on here for obvious reasons but did say you could immbolise this that and the other etc. On reflection I would always recomend taking the car to an authorised fitter and let them sign it off, as mentioned earlier just say you have lost the cirtificate and pay a small fee for the privalige then you are all above board. There is no point in taking any risks with insurance Do you have any other tips or ways to to improve the fitting of the alarm? All good info from you so far
Hide both the siren and wiring, use black electrical insulation tape and cable tie the wiring neatly to existing vehicle wiring. When joining alarm wires tape up as much of the visible wiring as possible this goes for the vehicles wiring by doing this your making it very difficult for any thief to by pass. Most alarm installers will just fit to thatcham spec, as i once needed to take some of my trim off my dash years ago when i had a mk4 escort i could see where the toad immobiliser had been joined on to the ignition switch wiring and could have been easily bypassed. What thatcham should have stated that more wiring other than the solidered part should be covered in insulation tape. Thatcham testing standards arent as good as folk think they are, and dont cover the detailed anti bypass precautions, which is as simple as adding more electrical tape. Thatcham make money from testing devices and then charging manufacturers licence fees, for continious thatcham cat status the licence fee must be paid every year. So if toad stopped paying thatcham for the AI606 then even if the alarm was installed even by a pro installer after the licence expires then the cat 1 status is void! Only alarms fitted before the expire date are still valid as cat 1. Many alarms are better than the cat1 status, just look at cliffords top end alarms they werent cat 1 status but they would have conformed to the thatcham spec, but clifford wouldnt pay just to have thatcham say there good. Abit of a money making racket on the insurance industry of things.
Can anyone clarify on the use of diodes for the door pins please?? IE: Do they always need fitting? Or do they only require fitting in certain circumstances? If so, when do they need to be used? Sorry, i'm not uber clever with electrics.
after 6 months in the garage, mine has developed a buzzing of varying loudness, sometimes this can be stopped by disarming also the siren is not as loud, is all this due to mine being on the way out? any ideas thanks?
robertGTi3, Possibly a silly question, but after being in the garage for those six months, what state is the car battery in now? Is it in a fit state to crank and start the engine? This does sound like the kind of behaviour I've observed some of our systems do when the supply voltage is quite low. If the battery is good, check over the main power supply connections to your alarm system (positive supply connections and chassis returns). Your problem, at my best guess, is a power supply related one as opposed to any of the ancillary connections (sensors and so forth). seanr68, The primary reason for fitting the diodes is to enable the door switches to be wired to a single common door switch wire to the alarm system, while still keeping the individual door switch circuits isolated from each other. The reason you keep them isolated is because on some cars, the driver door contact might be separate and activate systems that other door contacts don't; for example, the driver door switch might activate a seatbelt reminder or lights-on warning. So, you fit the diodes between switch contacts, and the single alarm door switch wire, according to this diagram (choosing the correct diagram for positive or negative door contacts - the Golf uses negative; i.e. switches simply contact the brown wire to chassis). On the Golf MK2, all of the door contact switches are simply connected together as standard anyway, so there's no reason to use diodes. The way that Smudge has shown the diode connected in his photo isn't quite right actually. Connecting the diode that way would result in the system responding only to the door switch that the alarm system is wired to.
The reason I used the diodes was because I was having false alarms on the mk1 CE1 wiring - which as Trev said are connected together but also trigger the interior light, I think the light with timer was causing the problem, the diodes separated the circuits and all is good.
thanks for your help trev16v the battery is good but it did need a small jump to get her started, will do the checks you suggested later today
never had to fit diodes on a mk1,2,3,4 golf you can actually program out the door error by entering programming and selecting door error chirp on/off
I thought it odd at the time too, fitted the alarm and then had a few alarms go off that day, doors being the problem, so I poped the diodes in and no more problems.
Cheers TREV16v. I fitted mine about a month ago now, all seems ok apart from occasionally, the range drops out. Normally i can arm/disarm from 30-40ft away quite easily. But, now and then the range dies and i have to put the fob right up to the door window. Not a massive issue, but would like to know cause? The aerial wire is taped up so its always in the same position....bit weird eh?
Hi all. I know this is an old thread but it's been so useful for fitting my alarm when it seemed like there were next to no instructions around on the internet, so here seemed the most logical place to ask a few questions. I'm afraid it's not even for fitting on a Golf, it's for a Vauxhall Viva, but I hope you won't mind helping me out. First question is about the wires for the hazards - do they need to be wired into a certain side? E.g Green/black is left and white/black is right. I ask as my hazard wiring is a different colour from yours and I just want to be sure before I solder wires together. Second, just to check, the immobiliser circuits you wire in series to the car's circuit (i.e. the car wiring will be cut) and the other circuits you wire in in parallel (i.e. car wiring remains the same and solder the alarm wire to it)? Third, my door switches have a live input and act as earth when door's open. Will I need a diode and if so where's best to solder the wires and where will I need to add the diode(s)? Bare in mind the loom is out of the car and stripped, so it's easy for me to solder in the alarm wires anywhere into the loom. Thank you, look forward to the replies.
