how to replace the oil seal in a 16v distributor

Discussion in '16-valve' started by MUSHY 16V, May 1, 2009.

  1. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Cool, let me split it apart and see how it's looking.
     
  2. lufbramatt Forum Member

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    excellent guide. think i may have to do this on mine as i found a few dribbles of oil in my dizzy cap the other day.

    one question- would anyone be able to point me in the direction of a part number/supplier for the hall sender in a ABF dizzy? as i have a feeling my running probs may be caused by that.
     
  3. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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  4. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    I did the seal replacement last night - there seemed to be 2 fibre washers in there, one being the drive lug, and another which was inside the distributor, in bits.

    I assumed the part in bits was from between the metal cap over the replaced seal, and tha hall sender window 'thing'.

    Thinking about the order of assy (it was easy to mix things up), I make it:

    spring | drive lug | steel washer | fibre washer | housing

    and on the other end:

    hall sender windows | fibre washer | captive washer | seal
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 14, 2013
  5. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    the fibre washers i got off mushy were great,just had to lap it down slightly but other than that spot on
    this is the order i took mine out,bottom washer near where pin goes through is the one mushy made
    so slightly different to what you put chris,but i cant say mine is correct as it was a second hand dizzy and could have been messed around with

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2010
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  7. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    if thats yours in post 5 pic 2 john ,its the same order as mine
     
  8. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    I've got another I'm going to take apart, so will have a camera to make sure I record it properly this time.

    Getting the seal's captive washer out wasn't easy. I used a punch down through the centrehole, but resulted in a small washer dent which I had to flatten with a hammer.

    I see you say you got it out like this - it was quite tight - what were you levering against?

     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its not my dizzy in the pics, but it was the same order when i replaced the seal in it :)
     
  10. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Ah, I missed the posts on this page - where's the halfway point?

    [​IMG]
     
  11. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    from the shaft,count two to the left ,thats the top ones,then the remaining 3 are the bottom ones
     
  12. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    mine only had the one fibre washers but it was not bosch it was a cheep gsf on the car when i got it
    so it may vary from dizzy to dizzy depending on make
     
  13. idlirp Forum Member

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    yes the dimensions for the ABF bearing are the same!
    tomorrow im gonna post the pics of the replacement of the oil seal in a ABF distributor :)
     
  14. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    yes it is just the same set up as the kr only the abf has two windows in the rotor
    insted of the four the kr/9a has
     
  15. idlirp Forum Member

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    ..and dont forget, the ABF doesnt have brackets for the cap. its got bolts ! thats why i love it :)
     
  16. idlirp Forum Member

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    so as im still waiting for the bearing to be shipped, im posting the pics and info about the ABF distributor seal.

    after removing the distributor cap, which comes out easy, you need a good 10mm wrench for the distributor. it has 2 bolts.

    [​IMG]
    By senndogg at 2010-10-05


    first, i have to thank you all for this thread, because look at all this mess the oil has done. i have changed the cover seal but there was still oil and dirt. now its time for the distributor seal:)

    [​IMG]
    By senndogg at 2010-10-05
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2010
  17. idlirp Forum Member

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    its recommended to remove the rotor arm. mine its about 80k miles old (120k km) so its time to change. since it wont came out, i had to break it!


    [​IMG]
    By senndogg at 2010-10-05
     
  18. idlirp Forum Member

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    the spring clip


    [​IMG]
    By senndogg at 2010-10-05
     
  19. idlirp Forum Member

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    remember this sign. it has to be by the part of the non-centered notch.

    [​IMG]
    By senndogg at 2010-10-05
     
  20. idlirp Forum Member

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    after fixing it well, now hammer it with no mercy. i dont know about the KR , but this was a real pain :(

    [​IMG]
    By senndogg at 2010-10-05
     

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