how to replace the oil seal in a 16v distributor

this is how everything looks



By senndogg at 2010-10-05

 

i have to admit the 3 screws of the hall sender were a pain too. but no fiber-gasket was damaged. they didnt need to be changed.

 

so, this is the seal. it similar to the one in the KR



By senndogg at 2010-10-05


this is how i removed it. i needed a screwdriver.
look at the 2 holes. if they werent, than my distributor would be filled up with oil.


By senndogg at 2010-10-05

 

this is the seal


By senndogg at 2010-10-05


By senndogg at 2010-10-05

 

that hall sender looks similar to KR one ,can it be used in a KR dizzy

 

the seal arrived, but i wasnt there. unfortunately i didnt take pictures of fitting the seal

i myself tried putting the pin. it was really hard till mr. Visi [pronounced vi: si] taught me a trick.
this is an industrial fixed power drill, and this is abrasive paper


By senndogg at 2010-10-05


By senndogg at 2010-10-05

 

after the tip was fixed, here's the new rotor



By senndogg at 2010-10-05

 

if it is the same, than you could use the entire ABF distributor in the KR engine?

 

everything tighten well, and fired up the engine. everything looks so good. i can feel the engine run smoother maybe because of the new rotor. thanx for listening , a excuse me for the bad english. its not my native lang.


By senndogg at 2010-10-05

 

idlirp-great addition to the thread there,good job

john- i was thinking more of the hall sender rather than the whole dizzy,the on in the pic looks very similar to a KR one

 

thanks for the overhaul guide!

 

ordered a 12x19x5 from a different supplier and its still very tight to turn the shaft,is there any chance the seal was originaly imperial i.e 1/2 x 3/4 x 1/4 which is 12.7x19.049x6.35,this would explain why A,the shaft is tight,B the seal went in the body without having to tap it in and C there is a gap under the sea at the bottom of the recess of the body

 

yea its bosch ,im more concerned about the ID,its just way too tight,OD can be sorted as the washer taps in over it,if i can get an imp seal ill try that,i doubt the dizzy is worn,i have like 5 dizzy bodies here and all the same

 

just thought id add this pic of shim order from ABF as shown also in post 41 ,but in this you can see the top fabric washer is on its own and fairly wide,as opposed to a KR one that has a metal shim and a fabric one

 

cant say as i have no vernier gauge,i did use a smig of engine oil on it and made a reasonable difference,but im comparing it to the old one where you could spin the shaft say half a turn,but this one has a lot more resistance,and to the extent removing the shaft has distorted the very top lip of the seal

 

right ok so it all appears to be ok then ,i shall carry on building it then
yes its the twin one and its only the dust cover thats distorted,i have just also tapped that washer down a bit,the one that goes over the seal,seems to have mad a bit of a difference too

thanks