Just need to clear up something. I don't need a relay to plug into the fuse box for the electric windows do I, as my golf never had electric windows?
I have just about managed to sort out my loom now. I connected it up to my fusebox and having trouble as I have an extra wire. I have got the blue/black but I have also got a black wire, any idea where this goes? Also where could I connect the blue/black wire to on the fusebox, I know it is meant to come off fuse 14 but where can I connect it to. At the moment I have not connected the blue/black wire and the windows still work but not one touch closing. I also connected the brown/white wire to the earth block to get it to work not the door switch.
the black wire is likely an ignition live, if you have a CE2 fusebox connect both that and the blue black to D/9 or 11 round the back of the fusebox. once you have done that, disconnect the brown/white as that means the module is permanently on and could cause battery drain issues
Could it be possible that the black wire is the ignition wire and the blue/black is the switch illumination. I know you guys had some confusion as to whether the blue/black should connect to dash illumination or ignition live, but as I have an extra wire maybe my window switches might light up with the lights not with ignition on. My loom was removed from a late corrado if that makes any difference. I know this is off topic but I am fitting electric heated recaros soon. The heated seat loom has a black wire green connector, which I assume is ignition live, and a blue/grey wire also removed from a corrado and earth nothing else. This correlates to my window loom. The brown white wire confuses me as If this is not connected to the earth block the windows do not work.
the reason the windows don't work with the brown/white wire connected is because you have no ignition live feed. the brown/white wire should actually go to the door pins, thus allowing you to close the windows with the ignition off and the door open. I'm still pretty certain both your black and black/blue wires are ignition live, as above my blue/black wire is definitely an ignition live wire and not lights on. easy to test this for yourself, see if 1 touch up works on the drivers window with the black/blue wire disconnected. see post #1 for clarification. since so many people were asking questions I decided to update it into an FAQ post. I'll ask the mods to shift it
Sorry I meant that the windows wont work at all unless the brown/white is connected. I tried connecting both the black and blue/black wires to ignition live and it doesn't make any difference. At the moment the windows work all the time with the ignition on or off, but I have no one touch up. So I am assuming that I leave the brown/white wire disconnected, and just connect up the black blue/black to ignition live?
yes, if this doesnt work then you need to investigate your loom more closely. when earthed the brown/white will activate the windows, this is by design so if you forget to close a window you can open the door and wind them up
Sorry dude, you are correct! I took out plug D to see if a plug I had connected my loom to was an ignition live, it was, but I never plugged it back in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So now my windows all work fine, however the black wire is not connected to anything at the moment. Where have you connected the brown/white to, is there a spare spade to connect to for the door open switch?
Cool I had to splice into the brown/white wire behind the fusebox somewhere, there isnt a spare spade for it anywhere unfortunatly
well I know that my question shouldn't really be posted here but I'll try I replaced my passenger's side window regulator with an A1-Electrics one. They are claimed to be better than OEM ones, and also cheaper. the fact is that it was really 'easy' to install, and it makes less noise than oem one.. and it also moves a lot faster. The problem I have, is that when the glass has reached the bottom, the window control module doesn't "know" it's at the bottom and keeps drawing current until past 6-10seconds (may it be a safety timeout?)... does anyone know what I should do to make it work correctly again?
sounds liek the motor doesnt draw enough current at the bottom to trigger the control unit, might be worth speaking to A1 electrics dirtectly
Can I swap the tops of the corrado switches for the golf tops? As I cant find any toldeo switches, and they light up red.
Ah I thought they might. Never mind I have fitted the switches in the door pockets as so: Im thinking of extending the plate more so I can fit the mirror switch there aswell so I'll have smooth door cards with no holes!
basically how the late spec corrado is, if you get the later spec corrado switches might look a bit neater as they're smaller? your call that one though. will keep trying to find the toledo part number and post it here
