Ignition Maps - Running in an engine

I hope you guys can guide me < noob

I am converting my 1.4 engine to a 1.6 by changing the crankshaft and conrod.

I need to get the car from my house to the rolling road guys who tune megajolt about 80 miles away.

They configured the first map for me.

Is it okay to use the original map to run the new 1.6 engine in?

Nothing else has changed apart from the increased capacity.


Other notes
The bike carbs have always run slightly running rich (150 jets).

 

We cannot accurately answer that question.
It would be down to the chaps who tuned the car and who will have to retune it to advise.

 

What ecu are you running?

 

Megajolt

 

When is your booking with your mapping guys due.

Tuning on the dyno also helps to reduce some of the friction which is also helped by a "break in" period.

 

This is the current map on the 1.4 carb setup. rev limit 6500

 

So it's just ignition map

Personally I'd put a AEM afr gauge in

And run it in not thrashing it to the max

 

I've got a aem afr gauge.

So just keep a eye on that n do a steady brake in for 300 miles about 3500 rpm max?

 

cbr600 carbs were set up by bogg brothers on my 1.4 afh setup. they ran rich because was using 150 jets.
so at idle they ran 13 AFR and at 2000rpm in stationory position AFR was around 1.0- to 14.0

but using the same carbs on my 1.6 afh conversion setup they run super lean on idle
idle was over 17 when engine cold causing exhaust to occasionally make like a spitting noise.
when warm , gets around 15.9 -16.0 ish and exhaust pop stopped

in stationary position revving it up to 2000rpm gets it where it should be 14.7, (when engine is warm)

i've done some research and timing shouldn't affect AFR significantly to get dodgy AFR readings.

theres a idle screw that controls where idle rpm position is.. i increased that to around 1500 rpm to get a decent enough AFR to avoid damage.

i took off the brake vacumm hose and re-installed it to make sure it's dead tight. where else can there be air leak.

the jubilee clips around the intake manifold for holding the carbs are pretty crap. they are tight but if you overtighten these jubille clips the nut jumps , making you tighten it to a certain limit. but had this issue with old set up.



the only thing that is different apart from the engine lol, is that im doing the testing with no bonnet and no induction pipe and ram air filter