Isaac - 1992 MK2 Golf GTI 8v...

That was something I was keen on, a bit of physical protection for the rims.

The width of the rims are actually 8" from absolute outside to outside, I'm guessing the 7" reference comes from the measurement when taken from the inside of the lip (where it drops down to become the barrel), if that makes sense... certainly how these measure up.

One of the charts above quotes 205/50's as being just a bit wider than the rims at 8.1" across, but then you'd have to also factor in it being squashed out a little at the bottom in use.

195/50's are actually narrower than the rim (without taking into account any 'squash').

Will try and get you the mud-flap numbers tomorrow.

 

Old image... 191 075 112 for the fronts, mentions GTI/G60 at the bottom.

 

191 075 112 - Fronts with wheel arch spats.

191 075 102 - Rears with wheel arch spats.

 

See what you mean about prices, fortunately mine came on the car already or else I wouldn't be forking out anything near what some seem to think they're worth.

It's the same with 205 flaps, seem to be serious money being asked for them, though I often wonder do they ever sell for those asking prices?

Check out this place, these ones are a good example - I thought I'd hit lucky at first, but they've been 'reserved' (though might be worth asking in case it falls through).

Up for sale a few days ago at €30 for a new pair of rears - https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/neu-schmutzfaenger-hinten-fuer-golf-2/2267465615-223-448 so can still be got at sensible money.

I used to get quite a bit of stuff on there and never had a single problem, but it all turned to crap post brexit - I'm sure others will turn up and maybe still worth asking, someone might want to post here!

 

Seem to be still available - https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s...-golf-2-191075112-rar-us/2265310940-223-19956

 

Have got myself to a level that I can do the routine, basic stuff on the car.

Over and above the obvious things like the oil / filters etc. can now also do the emissions and timing.

The next learning curve is the compression.

On the whole it's straight forward and I can follow what's said in Bentley, but just double checking one instruction they give and that's to disable the secondary ignition circuit by removing the king lead from the distributor and using a jumper wire to connect it to ground via the engine block.

This is only on non CIS-E Motronic and Digifant I's - I'm Digifant II, if it were CIS-E Motronic / Digifant I they state to disconnect the harness connector for the coil power stage.

Have I understood that correctly and the king lead at the dizzy end is earthed to the block?

If so it acutally suits me better doing it that way than disconnecting anything at the coil end, the wiring on my car has no play in it and taking it off / on needlessly would likely end up breaking a connection.

 

You're losing me!

Sorry but electrics baffle me, just can't follow them no matter how simply it's explained.

I'm worried I'd do something stupid and for example fry the ECU.

Would connecting the king lead to the block as described be safe, assuming I also follow their other instructions (guessing if so the wire would need to be quite a thick one?)

 

Got this wee thing, variations of it out there but if only from the point of view of now having this one and being able to use / see the quality, recommend it... didn't break the bank but shop about, some are a shocking price for what is essentially the same thing (or you could make one).

Very seldom have a little helper about so doing some jobs can be awkward when you're on your own, this takes the pain out of it and simplicity to use, even for me!

As Rubjonny recommended - it operates the starter motor by bridging the feed from the battery to the solenoid spade connector, but can be controlled using the trigger.

Just have to remember to take the car out of gear.

Compression test needs the throttle at wide open, a temporary fix using a socket extension that just so happens to be the perfect length, but in time will make up something bespoke.

 

Usual story... for every web reference you find and read you get 100 different answers / plus more and more confused.

Bentley don't seem to include the PB in any of their stats... presumably not an engine generally available in the US, so are any of the other codes a close enough equivalent so as to use their quoted figures instead - RD/PF for example?

Plugs are a bit blacker than I was expecting, though not oily / sooty - No 4 slightly more so than the rest.

Haynes suggest that can be the case for engines being newly run in, which I suppose this one is... will have to keep an eye on this as the miles add up.

(Approx. 500 since the new outsized pistons and re-done head that inc. all the valve seals etc. etc.)

No oil leaks / usage / exhaust smoke.

Running sweet as a nut infact, perfect start up and idle plus emissions / timing all exactly on the nail.

Hadn't yet been going too far up the rev. range because of the miles, but really smooth and pulls strongly / no lag etc... makes the 205 feel like an old radial engined bi-plane by comparison when it's spluttering into life and grumbling away until it's warmed up.

Between taking it easy and quite a bit of sitting idling lately to get the engine up to temp. for the emissions / timing / compression testing probably not helping, good blow out maybe change things.

If I can use Bentley's figures it looks like 145 - 189 psi (10 - 13 Bar) is what I should be aiming for in a 'new' engine... reckon I'm getting 185'ish or shy of 13 bar across the board.

 

That's spot on, very useful to know thanks...

 

That needs nothing only a bit of good hard driving.
How did you bed in the rings?
Did you do the first bit of mileage on cheapy, basic mineral oil?

 

Used a break in oil, Lucas I think?

Since been changed out for regular 10w40 semi-synthetic after a certain mileage.

Found a few articles on line about running in a rebuilt engine and between them all worked out a plan.

Had to write it down on a sheet so as to follow it, it was that involved... running at certain revs. for X amount of time etc. etc.

Maybe all made no odds but fingers crossed doesn't seem to have done any harm either!

 

The usual thing is steady load, eg accelerating in 4th for 20 seconds or so, then slow on overrun. Cylinder pressure on accel pushes out the rings to bed them in, lifting off increases vacuum to get some oil around them.

But tbh, modern materials and oils, it's usually ok.