You could buy one of these.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-MK3-Golf-V...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item562f69ab0d But you can do it with three switches, one normal switch and two push switches More details here http://www.christiantena.net/motor/vag/tdi/ccs.html
My 93 1z van had cruise control (the one your injectors are from), it was brilliant. You pressed a button and a motor (behind the glovebox) pulled on a cable that was linked to a lever on the pedal! Very complicated but designed for non drive by wire motors it seemed
Sad to say, I never made it in the end... [:^(] Yesterday was the first chance I`ve had to give the injector swap a try, and it didn`t go well. Then I went out on the town with a mate as a joint birthday bash, and a `cashflow error` subsequently occured... On the plus-side I did fit the boost gauge and manual boost controller. Standard boost tops at 15psi, then tails to around 13psi at full chat. The Turbosmart MBC, being universal, has no `scale` so a bit of trial and error had to be employed. It`s around 6 turns from closed to open, so I intially set it to half-way...this resulted in 24psi and an overboost limp mode...oops! Contrary to something mentioned earlier in the thread, the extra fuelling will result in a boost increase of around 2psi. So with the switch off I was still seeing 22psi, and would only get an overboost limp mode if it was sustained. So I dialled back the MBC a turn or so, and now see 17psi on normal fuelling, and 19psi with the switch on. No more limp modes. Injector story so far (I`ll make this a separate `How-to` thread once it`s done); Cover off, and weigh up what the job entails. Breather pipe is in the way of injector No.4, so simply move aside. Disconnect, and move aside the vac line that runs across the front off the engine. Brown plug is for the needle-lift sensor on injector No.3. It`s easier to pull the connectors up and out of the bracket before dis-connecting. Unplug and pull aside the glow-plug bus-bar. Remove the injector clamps (13mm). The spill-return banjo on No.3 might get in the way. If so, sinply whip it out, but don`t lose it! Remove the spill-return line from No.4 (for ease i took it off at the pump end too.) Loosen the four unions on the fuel pump (17mm) Leave them finger-tight. The lowest one nearest the block (No.2 injector) is a bit of a fiddle, so a proper pipe spanner would help here, but is still do-able with a standard open/combi spanner. Undo the injector unions (again 17mm), and pull the lines back out of the way. No.1 won`t clear the pump, so best to just remove it altogether. Remove the remaining spill-return lines. They simply pull off, but as you can see they are linkely to be brittle and break off, so best to have some new ones to hand. Luckily mine just had enough length to be re-used... You`ll now be ready to start the `fun` part... ...give the area a clean of any loose dirt/grime and give the injectors a good dousing in your penetrant of choice (WD-40 used here) After about half-an-hour of wriggling, jiggling, hammering, and a liberal dose of swearing No.1 was finally liberated! You can see the extent of the carbon deposits that hold the injectors in fast, making this job such a pig... And that was as far as I got... The others, despite two more hours, a full large tin of WD, application of heat, and more swearing, resolutely refused to budge. I thought No.4 was going to come out, but it turned out I was actually un-screwing the body from then nozzle! It was getting dark, by then and I needed the car to be running, so everything went back as it was, and I fitted the boost gauge and MBC instead. I`ll hopefully try again tomorrow with some help of a mate, some bigger tools, and oxy-acetylene...
Shame that they are proper stuck in there stu. Hopefully the bigger tools help you out. Got my home made chips installed last weekend myself and so far I'm very impressed. Although some bigger nozzles are tempting me now too.
Wow, cheers for the write up so far. I once had to change #3 but shifted it without too much aggro. Makes you think! I recall these spill lines not looking amazing and used woven boost capillary pipe to replace it with.
No.1 wasn`t that bad (better than expected, TBH) but the rest are just a joke! Just remembered I`ve got some too-small bought-in-error fuel line that will replace the spill lines perfectly (I was thinking vac/boost line would do though) Good stuf! I should have said earlier, but the boost increase alone is a big improvement, and with the switch on it`s just relentless! First gear is all but useless, and the clutch is showing it`s displeasure if I give it death in third or above. God knows what it`ll be like with the bigger injectors...
I would clean that engine with proper degreaser before doing surgery like that, wd40 on the injectors for a few days before trying taking them off. I use a 15mm spanner on the flat of the injectors and then pull them while rotating to take them off, but always a nasty job EGT's rise very fast because this mod extends the injection period, bigger nozzles allow to inject more fuel on the stock time if the ecu is remapped in accordance, a step up is fine without mapping just as this mod is fine if used sensibly. the turbo is also a limiting factor, it gets too small, so EGTs rise again
The engine looks far dirtier in the pictures than it actually is. That is to say, there are no loose particles, what you can see is properly `ground in` dirt that has no danger of dropping into the injector hole. That said, a few little bits of carbon or grime dropping in wouldn`t exactly be terminal. 15mm flats on the injectors, indeed, but a standard 15mm combi ain`t budging these! Very nearly snapped my (very good quality) spanner trying that. 12" adjustable was the tool of choice to get it free from the carbon deposits, then the mole-grips to pull it out. Didn`t work on the others, though, so a 24" shifter will be getting appropriated from work for the job (or a suitable piece of pipe to fit over the 12" if that doesn`t fit.) You`ve mentioned EGTs before...seriously...I`m not worried in the slightest.
Could try putting the injector clamps on loose and starting the engine. Not read all of it, have you used a slide hammer? Also, that breather hose you moved out of the way, its not flexible so worth checking you haven't bust it the other end.
I did try using the compression of the engine cranking to try and loosen them off (fuel lines off, and pump un-plugged). Didn`t bother leaving the clamps on though... Slide hammer I don`t have access to, but I think really that rotating them to break the hold of the deposits is the best method. The breather pipe on mine has a rubber 90deg elbow at the bottom, so plenty of flex, but it did make a disconcerting `crack` when I first moved it. Checked out ok though.
Sorry Stu, but as Aidan said,i don't thik any amount of lube'ing,twisting or yanking will budge these if they are as tight as you say.I tried for hours (with access to as much kit as you'd ever need!) Waste of time with WD for ANYTHING!,it's ****e - only Plus gas is worth using. A slide hammer really is the way to go.I made one from a bit of old injector pipe/couple of unions.Even then it took a fair bit of pulling.(not as much as Aidans though - love the video!), Good luck!
Just a thought... run the car around with the clamps loose? Gaffer tape over the bolt heads, just to stop the bolts undoing? As soon as you can hear what sounds like the downpipe cracking, you know they're loose!
Thanks for the advice, but I`m pretty confident a 6` scaff-tube over the end of a big shifter will get them loose. (Unless you tell me you tried that with no luck... ) That was another option I considered...perhaps I`ll leave that as a ultimate last resort! Ta. Not much beyond what`s in this thread, other than coilovers, VR6 wishbones, and 8v GTI seats.
Be careful - you may end up undoing the bodies and leaving the tips still stuck in Wherabouts are you Stu,if you have no joy,i'm sure i have my slide hammer still buried in the garage somewhere.
That did start to happen with No.4! I`ll just have to remember to only go clockwise... I`m in South Manchester, BTW.
done that once by accident, forgot to tighten one of the clamp bolts all the way. might be a good idea to try to take them out with a warm engine because of the different expansion rates
Forget the twisting, if it was going to work it would have by now and yes I have a similar bar. Just get the proper slide hammer, plusgas, try it when its hot etc. Then wait for the big 'f*** you' from your lower back, and thinking how it ran fine before and why now did I decide to mess with it