Folks, Quick question - whilst I was checking over my 8v, I did notice that the indicators would stop working (hazards OK) but they would not respond from the stalk. Turns out that the indicator circuit fuse holder on the fuse board seems to be dodgy/worn/loose. Other than a complete swop of the fuse board has anyone come up with an easier fix? To me taking the board apart could result in a rapid launching of links/bars/connections and the mother of all ball-aches. Cheers
2 options, replace fusebox or open fusebox and inspect well 3, you could re-wire the hazard switch wiring to use a different ignition live but I wouldnt recommend that opening the fusebox isnt too scary theres nothing spring loaded inside so its just a case of work carefully to ensure everything goes back in the same way it came out. Then you just decide if its worth repairing or if its too far gone and needs replacement. if you have CE2 I woudlnt even bother just go mk3 golf hunting, you can also find them in caddy vans plus early 6n polo and also polo saloon/estate up to 2000 ish
Cheers RJ - I have CE2 from the 16v already so I might as well use it. In terms of fusing/circuitry/relays etc. is it just a straight swop of the 16v board to the 8v one? Are there extra circuits on the 16v in comparison to the 8v or is it pretty much the same?
base fusebox is identical for all ce2 models, so just a case of swap over whats different from old fusebox to new
Won't have the time for scrapyard as I'm only going back for a week after that it's another 12 months before I'm back - won't have to worry about lights on as I only get to drive the cars 2-3 weeks max every year. RJ/Tristan - regarding the larger connectors at the back of the board - is it the same story with those when swopping 16v unit to 8v - what I mean it's the same connector size, position and location - I will take pics anyways but I want to make sure I avoid any short/heat/fire related issues when I do it.
Yes. They're all sized differently, and have offset locating lugs so as not to be able to mix them up. John very helpfully also put up a guide about them here. https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/
yeah its impossible to go wrong unless you destroy your plugs trying to get them out. handy hint, there is a lock bar which runs across the back in the middle. click the tab out to the right to release it. see new fusebox for details with lights on 36 relay that only works if you add a couple extra wires on the rear loom, there may be another type which plugs right in and works with standard mk2 wiring but dont know of any off hand
Had a problem with blower motor fuse after adding AC with the mk3 blower motor. The old fuse had plastic in the middle witch melted then got poor contact. Was a pain to remove the old melted fuse. Put on new style spade fuse, still working. Had this problem on mine and my brothers (a rust bucket fully restored tdi close to 180hp), wish i had 180hp on my driver!
From what I can see it's not melted or doesn't look like it's been overloaded but for some reason the bugger isn't snug in there.
sounds like fuse terminals worn/bent inside, possibly an easy fix once fusebox split but these are so common not really worth the bother. can always open it up once you've replaced it