MK1 Cabrio build 2L cross flow + 45 carbs

Discussion in '8-valve' started by jrgibb, Jan 26, 2014.

  1. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Nice job J!

    I'd take Adam (dumma) up on that offer...you'll also get to see why your inlet manifold looks so good!..;)
     
  2. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Gear box cleaned, etch primed and aluminium sprayed, fitted and starting to put on all the bits and bobs . . . . .

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    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
  3. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Happy New Year everyone, keep on building!

    Happy New Year to me, oh you shouldn't have!

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    Get away from my engine!

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  4. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    New head cover (didn't like to old one plus this AGG cover has a breather hole) - Just waiting now for my neighbour's brother to return his engine hoist, in the meantime ordered ASH hoses blanking plugs etc for heater parts of the water system I'll plumb some of that in before dropping the engine in, will be sorting the engine cooling (pump - rad - engine) when the engines in and I've sorted the position and fixed in the Honda rad and the head and block breather to the catch can.

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    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
  5. mitlom

    mitlom Forum Member

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    Just replied to your email Jase :)
     
  6. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Thanks Tim, yep once I got the flow right it all made sense, all pretty simple without the header and the water oil cooler - Pump, blank top, 2nd heater matrix, bottom to bottom of rad. Head flange small to heater matrix, large to top of rad. The AGG head cover has a nice breather on the top so that's all sorted for the catch can. :thumbup: Mani are carbs all off ready for the engine to go in !!! Should be in next weekend if not before [:D]
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
  7. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Stop washers for the engine mounts (part no 171199125A) discontinued by VW, Heritage can get them 3 - 4 weeks from Germany, on eBay at around 8 each from Greece! I'm ready to get this engine in, made my own, 5 for some 70 shore hardness rubber (harder than tyre rubber) and my hole cutters;

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  8. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    nice job , where did you source the rubber?
    Jon
     
  9. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    eBay! exact thickness 6mm lots there, had to do a little research re the hardness (you learn something new everyday!) mitlom pointed out that the holes on the cam side are more oval so they'll need some fettling with a craft knife - As long as they fit, they're not a hi tolerance part it's just about stopping the metal of the engine mount hitting the chassis mounting points under high load. The 70 shore hardness feels identical to the one OEM one I do have, granted there's a risk that the rubbers not up to scratch but I'm pretty happy with the result - the proof will be in the pudding so to speak!

    http://mykin.com/rubber-hardness-chart
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2015
    mitlom likes this.
  10. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    well done
    Jon
     
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  11. mitlom

    mitlom Forum Member

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    Jase what is that water outlet on the head you are using? You got any better pics of that as looks different to the one I'm running !
     
  12. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Tim,

    Got it from VeeDub's looked for one with the oval fitment and with the 32mm to the rad pointing towards the front of the car and the 16mm (I think that's the size) for the heater pointing a the bulkhead, it's from a MK5 plus loads of other VAG vehicles. There's the water temp sensor fitment there as well, you can just see it under the 16mm in the pic below. I did also need to get a long bolt for the top of the two, 70mm from memory.

    Part No 038121132G

    http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/coolant-flange-seal-19-20-tdi-16v-tdi-t5-golf-mk5-leon-p-1751.html

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    Last edited: Jan 9, 2015
  13. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Big day for me - Engine in! :thumbup: :clap: :thumbup:

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    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015
  14. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    excellent
    Jon
     
  15. gasco

    gasco Paid Member Paid Member

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    How is the fitment of the honda rad? Does it block any of the trumpets? Keep up the good work looks amazing so far.
     
  16. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Am scheduled to fit the rad at the weekend, I've removed my battery tray (battery in the boot), the civic rad fits perfectly to the right of the front engine mount so will be right out the way of the inlets. Having just offered it up I'm probably going to have to cut off the unused lug off the starter motor to allow room for the bottom hose. The rad will sit low and a section will be below the front panel. I'm going to get it in and then see how efficient it is, I may have to run some ducting to get some additional air flow to the lower part of the rad and possibly some mess along the bottom to allow airflow but prevent stones etc - it'll be trial and error. A oil rad will be going the other side (well below the carb inlets), that will be reducing some of the cooling requirement as the stock engine had the water oil cooler above the oil filter. I'll take some pics and post.
     
    gasco likes this.
  17. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Fitted the oil cooler to complete the oil system and filled up the engine with mineral oil - no leaks! Gonna need to get some shorter pipes for it the ones that came with the Mocal kit are too long and I had to swap around the pipes to get the best fit to prevent the pipes pinching closed. A tidy up job for later;

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    The Honda rad (HONDA CIVIC 92-00 EG EH EJ EK EM) needed the lug on the starter motor to be removed to allow the 90 degree hose to fit and allow the rad to sit as high as it could. The bottom hose connector on the rad rather than sticking straight out points up about 25 degrees which means it sit's a little lower than expected but all in all it fits in well. Will need to keep a close eye when it's running to make sure there's plenty of clearance for engine movement.

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    So here it is in place;

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  18. gasco

    gasco Paid Member Paid Member

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    Good progress and great pics. Just need to decide what route to go with my engine. The cross flow option looks like it could be a contender.
    Keep up the good work.
     
  19. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    If you go for the cross flow try to source another head other than the AKL (the AKL is a low flow head) or find someone that can flow test it after they've re worked it, a lot of "meat" needs to come out the bowls to get it up to scratch.
     
  20. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Good work.

    Are you popping down to the meet tomorrow?
     

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