MK2 3 door build - turbo'd and 4WD (CAGE PICS ADDED Page 4)

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by jasongtr, Mar 1, 2014.

  1. jasongtr Forum Member

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    thought id put a little thread up on here, mainly to gather peoples thoughts and opinions of what I'm doing, all info is well received good or bad, i might be doing the wrong thing here and there and I'm sure there are many more well informed minds here to shout if thats the case.

    I bought the car towards the end of 2013, it is a C reg 3 door non sunroof car that had a mk3 tdi engine, mk4 interior and shed loads of crappy fake dynamat. I had it on a ramp to see underneath before i bought it and all was well. It had later type doors with one piece glass, big bumpers, 90 spec arches, 90 spec loom.

    how the car came to me

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    I quickly stripped it to a bare shell

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    sound deadening bloody everywhere

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    The plans for the car are loosely based around the following

    Haldex 4WD conversion
    Turbo'd engine (i have a forged S3 engine - but might opt for R32 turbo as it will spend life on the road too and this should make it easier to drive on the road)
    Full multipoint motorsport cage - and a very stripped interior
    Wide arches (being made now - will look like a rallye on steroids) possibly not using them now though
    18" wheels - to suit the above arches and accept big brakes
    fuel cell
    kw v2 or possibly v3 coilovers

    I bought a syncro to use some parts for the 4wd conversion, the rear axle has been shot blasted so its ready for the haldex brackets that i now have from dutchbuild to be welded on, the boot floor has been cut out so once the axle comes back it can be bolted up and the beam between the chassis rails can be welded in to fit the haldex rear diff.

    the interior sound deadening has almost been removed, just the passenger side footwell to do now, i found the floor had been jacked up and split the seam so that needs welding up.

    As it was an early car it has the wipers the wrong way, so I've welded in a plate on the passenger side and will use a single wiper, there was a very small patch needed putting in on the screen frame next to the plate i put in, this is the worst part of the car regards to corrosion.

    Ive also welding a panel where the fuel door was as the arches would interfere with the filler door, i might relocate the fuel filler arrangement or just fuel through the boot into the fuel cell.

    Ive also bought a pair of mk3 syncro rear trailing arms as they are a touch wider but more importantly are 5x100, ill be using 5x100 widetrack on the front too.

    I think the arches will take 18" wheels and 10j wide all round so no problem getting the power down, and it will have a pretty aggressive look too. I know there will be arch work needed at the rear, i picked up a sheet metal roller last night so i can tackle that.

    Its going to be a fairly slow build, i dont have as much time to spend on it as i would like, and theres the 000's that will be spent on it too.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2015
    1990 likes this.
  2. micky1 Forum Member

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    so syncro subframes with haldex diff?

    i have a mk2 in th garage..was thinking going all haldex inc subframes lol
     
  3. jasongtr Forum Member

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    yes mate, dutchbuild sell a kit that welds onto the syncro rear axle that accepts the haldex diff, the rear axle with the mounting brackets bolts right up to where the rear beam on a fwd mk2 fits, then its a case of welding a box section like 75mm x 50mm across the chassis rails (hence cutting the boot floor out) and bracketing off that too. If you were running it as a road car you would use the full syncro boot floor and tank, but as this is a stripped out road/track car i took the easy option.

    I have been trying to find someone to 4wd a mk2 on and off for ages without success, had i known it was this easy (read easier than i 1st thought really) i would of started it years ago, I've had a 280hp fwd 1.8t mk2 and decided the next one will be 4wd.
     
  4. micky1 Forum Member

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  5. jasongtr Forum Member

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    nice skills, but not exactly required to get the haldex into the car really - looks an epic build though
     
  6. tom.rich Forum Member

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    Better place for the thread here mate :thumbup:

    There's not much love for cars on the Mk2 Owners forum that are going further away from OEM than just wheels and springs [:D]
     
  7. jasongtr Forum Member

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    i did put that in the 1st post over there that if anyone is OEM only they shouldn't read on.

    are you a member on mk2oc?
     
  8. 1990

    1990 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thats going to be bonkers!!!! Cant wait for your updates!!!
     
  9. jasongtr Forum Member

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    cheers, hopefully ill be able to post up pics of the rear arches in the next week or so, my guy is making the patterns on the car then taking the molds before turning out the final panels. Its 4 inches wider per side at the rear and most likely 5 inches wider on the front per side. The work he has done so far is great.
     
  10. jasongtr Forum Member

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    This will make things easier

    [​IMG]

    ill get to work stripping the underseal off in the next few days
     
  11. jasongtr Forum Member

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    small update, Haldex diff now fitted to the syncro rear axle

    the syncro beam was shot blasted

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    I then had a choice to make, i had the dutch build brackets bought and delivered, i could get them welded onto the axle for 300 as they need doing on a jig, or i could make the jig and weld them myself, i decided on the latter route.

    The syncro rear diff needed to be bolted back onto the axle so i could make the jig.

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    the jig basically ensures the position on the props shaft coupling is central and square, its pretty simple, 50mm box section with bracing and pickup points for the axle bushes to keep the main section secure, then the bolt tubes pressed out of the 4motion prop donut bolted onto the diff and welded together with another small box section welded onto the main part, it was strong enough to keep it secure with the diff bolts removed that i could pick the whole thing up. As the haldex diff prop coupling is the same size as the syncro one it seemed the easiest way to approach this.

    the prop coupling part of the jig

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    rear axle with syncro brackets removed - jig now ready to accept the haldex diff

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    haldex diff bolted onto the jig ready for the brackets to be welded on

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    haldex brackets all welded on

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    rear axle - haldex diff complete and ready to fit to the car

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    the diff I'm using is a scrap one, its fitted to the brackets using the 4 rear points its fitted into the later cars, the 2x top bolts need drilling out and tapping M12.

    I can now remove the rear beam, fit this so the box section can be welded in across the chassis legs, the boot floor has already been cut out

    [​IMG]

    i can then work out what part of the tunnel needs modification to accept the 4motion propshaft, where the handbrake cables go through on a fwd mk2 is different to a syncro so that part definitely needs work.
     
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  12. jasongtr Forum Member

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    small update.

    bought some shiny bits for the car.

    custom built rad/intercooler package with a mocal oil cooler, lightened front panel, charge pipes (will need modifying though) front cross member, 2x spal fans - they are pro alloy cores and made by a guy who has just started his on fabrication company - some might of seen it up for sale on ed38

    ill let the pics do the talking

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    oh and my carbon roof turned up today.

    and the wide arches are coming on a treat, rears just need some final filler shaping then we can take the molds off the patterns
     
  13. micky1 Forum Member

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    cool :thumbup:
     
    jasongtr likes this.
  14. AjVR Forum Member

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    Looking good , decided what engine \turbo to use ?
     
  15. jasongtr Forum Member

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    it will come on the road with a remapped BAM 20v as i just bought an s3 to break, that will get it finished quicker and ill be able to iron out any issues i potentially have on the road and track, then have an engine built for full beans power, could well be a 1.8t 20v or an r32 turbo - up for debate right now but ill most likely keep the BAM in there for a year so lenity of time to decide on that
     
  16. Trev16v

    Trev16v Paid Member Paid Member

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    I always like seeing a 4WD / Syncro conversion. If for any reason you need detailed pictures or measurements of the original MK2 Syncro chassis underneath then let me know as the underside of mine has just been stripped and painted.
     
    jasongtr likes this.
  17. jasongtr Forum Member

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    i appreciate the offer thanks and ill let you know, my rear syncro axle has now had the haldex brackets and diff fitted, and pretty much worked out where the tunnel needs raising - as its only in one small area i dont need to use the syncro tunnel i have. Im not using a syncro boot floor as its a track based car i can use a fuel cell, might even go side exit exhaust out of the deep sills I'm going to have - but thats for another day.

    cheers again
     
  18. micky1 Forum Member

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    mk3 golf tunnels higher if that helps.
     
  19. jasongtr Forum Member

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    cheers but if i needed to use a different tunnel id use the syncro one i have
     
  20. jasongtr Forum Member

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    going in a slightly different direction with this car now, decided that at the age of 40 and having never done a track day it seems silly to build such an extreme car, so its going to be built as a fast road car. So basically a cage won't be fitted, no race seats/harnesses.

    It will still have the following though

    wide rallye arches
    carbon roof
    big power
    big brakes
    quality suspension
    ill still stitch weld it as it seems stupid not to as its having all the underseal removed and its on a rotisserie and i have the welding gear. That way if i even do cage it for a more extreme car thats all been done already.

    but will have the added benefit of rear seats and a proper dashboard.

    It will of course be heavier than i planned as a track car but i won't have a 50kg cage fitted.
     

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