Is that your listing on ebay then for that single bolt? As the name matches to the links in your signature? Thanks for that link, just checked and they have the flanged bolts M10x25 and M12x1.5 flanged nuts. But yea like you said, the shipping is abit much, probs because of weight Thanks
It is yes, I needed 6 for myself so I bought 30 odd and decided to sell the rest. Made about £15 in total after fee and everything so wasn't worth it
Ah great! thats good then just in case all else fails Ah, was thinking to do the same lol but more hassle than its worth
I've been stripping down the beam and came across the rubber bush around the ARB Can this be removed and replaced? I'm going to be getting the beam blasted and powdercoated so it will probably get ruined if I leave it on. Is a genuine replacement still available? Any tips for removing it?
Looks like they can still be got - VW part number is 871 511 423, I found them on e-bay, just type in VW part 871 511 423 and you'll locate them.
As above, I ended up with a "Borsehung" one, but I do think they are still available at dealers. To remove, BIG screwdriver is require and a fair amount of force. Try and end one of the sides out and up from under the bar. The other side then comes fairly easy
Great, Thanks guys will contact the dealers once I have a full parts list of things to buy Ill be going down the route of braided hoses with stainless ends. Does anyone know if there will be any corrosion problems in the future if I use stainless unions on the hardlines so they mate up to the stainless ends on the braided hoses? Read that it can cause problems... :S Seeing how corroded the original unions and flexy pipe ends have gotten on this beam, I want to future proof them abit as I have to replace them anyways Is it worth the money to buy Goodridge/Hel braided flexy lines? I saw you can buy braided brake line quite cheap by the meter and the fittings also. Was thinking to make the up myself, Probaly could make all 6 for alot less than the kits on offer from the big brands. But open to peoples reviews
So im going to be using MK4 calipers and polo/Ibiza stub axles and bearings. Can someone confirm what brake disc and brake pads I will need to buy for this mixture of parts? Will it be polo discs and MK4 golf pads? Or something else? What handbrake cables would I need to buy? Thanks
Polo discs, mk2 pads, though I think mk4 and polo gti are the same, and 90 spec mk2 gti handbrake cables.
yeah polo discs, pads can use mk2, mk3 or mk4. ideally use later polo/mk3 caliper carriers these take the stainless pad slider shims so you never have to worry about pads stickign in corroded carriers again. handbrake cables depends on the age of the car, pre-88 or post 88 as the handbrake lever changed
Thanks guys I have Mk2 carriers already so will refurb them up for now or is it not worth it on those? My mk2 is post-90 so will get late gti handbrake cables then So Polo 6n2 gti discs and mk2 gti pads should be good?
if they're in good nick no problem, clean em up and fit. mine were pitted where the pads sit so would stick now and again. luckily I had some polo ones in my stub axle kit so swapped over and fitted the shims problem solved. I did try the shims in the mk2 carriers but were just that bit too tight and pads wouldn't slide at all. I guess you could grind the mk2 carriers till they fit nice
Hi guys, Can anyone help with how I can line up the brackets which attach the rear axle to the car? The workshop manuals I saw say that you have to use a VW tool to measure the degree the brakcet is tightened to the rear axle. e.g. https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...r_suspension_drive_shaft/repairing_rear_axle/ Is there a DIY method? I still have the old axle attached on the car but will be taking it off soon. Car was a 1.3 and rear disc brake beam is getting fitted Thanks
Bolt no. 12? Just leave it loose, let the car sit down on its wheels, roll back and forward, bounce it to settle it, then tighten it up.
Yea bolt no. 12. Just had another look at that link I posted and it says to have the beam horizontal and vehicle unladen when tightening? But further down it says the bracket needs to be set at a certain angle to the beam :s
That's just so you can have that bracket bolted to the axle before refitting. Most people leave it in place when dropping an axle.
oh okay. So because im going from drum brakes axle to a gti on with discs and brake regulator I have everything apart on the new axle as it was powdercoated etc. In this case should I bolt the brackets to the body first and then attach the axle to them? Is there an alignment I need to keep to with the positions of those bracket to the body so the axle is square to the front end? Thanks
I would fit the axle brackets to the axle, but not very tight, then bolt the lot to the car. Measure side to side and move them left or right if needed to centralise, bearing in mind it's fairly limited. Loosen the axle pivot bolt and lower damper bolts then, drop the car to the ground and get it settled to running ride height, then retighten. And recheck after a drive.
Sounds simple enough, Thanks! Im fitting polybushes to the beam so dont think there will be much movement in the bracket to the axle. Just abit of movement in the bracket to body like you said I was just thinking if its worth taking any measurements from the drum brake rear axle thats on the car currently before I take it all off. Thanks
