Hi all, Just bringing the Mk2 back to life after few years sitting, ironing out a few faults. The headlight dash dimmer seems rather suspect, If I touch the little potentiometer wheel dimming thing it will often flash the dash light and they flicker and may/may not work. Bit worried the fooker might burst into flames, ideally I'd like a brand new switch, but the 9pin switches seem rare unfortunately. there are 2nd hand ones on Ebay wasnt sure If they will suffer the same issues at some point though so thought about just bypassing the dimmer by linking the wires in the loom behind the connector, is this an ok Idea and does anyone have the pin breakdown? I've got the switch apart and possibly pin 58 feeds the potentiometer and 58b is the output so connecting these at the loom should feed the dash lights with 100% of the voltage all the time?
Hi, The diagram I've got handy shows the 10-pin switch, I'm afraid, but on that '58' (Grey-green) is the supply for both sides external lamps, 58L (black trace) and 58R (red trace). 58b* does seem to be the outlet from the brightness adjuster, though, with Grey-blue wire. The inlet for it is shown as 58e, Grey. Connecting 58b to the full 12v will by-pass the adjuster. *58b is also instrument/dash lighting on other diagrams
CE1: 30 - red - B/23 - live feed 31 - brown - earthed in dash harness 56 - white/black - flasher switch pin 56 and A/9 - headlight feed & pin 2 of fog light relay socket 56D - yellow - dimdip resistor 58L - grey/black - B/27 and parking light switch PL - left rear light & front side/parking light 58R - grey/red - B/26 and parking light switch PR - right rear light & front side/parking light 58 - grey/green - A/24 - number plate lights & pin 1 of fog light relay socket 58e - grey - A/26 - power feed for dash light dimmer switch 58b - grey/blue - dash harness and A/1 - dash lights feed X - black/yellow - B/10 & ignition switch pin X - x-over live feed if you loop pins 58e and 58b that would be safest, as the grey wire on 58e is the factory input to the dimmer wheel and is fused for you. unfortunately this wire isn't always there it depends on the age, if not then as you say 58-58b would be the equivalent of 'full' on the dimmer wheel on early type wiring looms. Dougie, 58 is power output from the switch for the number plate lamps, 58L and R are supplied internally by the switch when its on the 1st click
on a side note, if you do have the grey wire in your loom its relatively easy to convert to the later and more common 11 pin switch, get yourself a red plug socket from a donor car and match the pins! you ignore NSL and 58D on the new switch
