Wondered if anyone else has had this problem. I converted my car to 1.8t and modified the mk4 wiring loom in the cabin to run with my original electric windows running it through the mk4 control box (may need to post some pictures as I have almost confused myself!). The windows work but you can't hold the button down to open the window, you have to press it several times and the window gradually opens. Has anyone had this problem? I suspect it's the one touch system from the mk4 box so I figured id try fitting the mk4 window motors and see if that works. Any help much appreciated if anyone's done this and know it doesn't work would like to hear either way!
are there any kind of logic boxes on the mk4 motors? you'll have to transfer those across too if so. mk4 motors are very different so it would be hard work to fit them, you just need to remove all the gubbins off the back of the mk4 motors and put them on the mk2. are the mk2 motors/regulators in good nick? if not you may have to replace. see PABs red mk2 build thread he did exactly this conversion in his mk2, that should hopefully sort you out
I might be sounding stupid but what is a logic box? i might just get a mk4 window mech with everything and try retro fitting it. Tried to find that red mk2 thread but dont seem to be able to is PAB his name!?
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?196688-The-difficult-third-project-BVF-Best-Golf-Winner by logic box i mean look at the motors to see if there are any circuit boards or anything on the back of the motors, basically do they have more than 2 wires to the motors!
Thanks yet again rubjonny. You do seem to have all the answers! looked at that thread looks amazing. Anyway I have had a go at combining the mk2 windowm slider with the mk4 motor/pulley assembly. I used the same 1.5mm braided wire that the mk4 uses but just threaded it through the mk2 assembly. I soldered nipple/ferruels whatever theyre called onto one end, threaded through and halfway soldered another 2 in the middle to attatch to the slider, then one on the end to hold it on. The wrapped it round the pulley and closed the containing bit. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/195/newwindowreg.jpg/] My plan is to cut a section out the door and pop rivet this section from a mk4 on. Anyone have any ideas if this will work? the ferruels are on there tight im just worried that the wire is under too much tension of maybe not enough. If anyone has anything to say would be much appreciated http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/newwindowreg2.jpg/]
just drill holes in the mk2 door for the motor, it only needs to be held roughly in place at the motor side, maybe transfer the mk2 rubber mounts to the mk4 motor in a suitable location. before you do anything bolt the lifter part to the door and hold the motor in your hand, then see if the window works ok! if not, adjust till it does. then once its working look at mounting the motor to the door. be annoying modding the door to suit motor only to find you need to play with the custom regulator and end up with the motor no longer fitting, or finding that no matter what you do it wont work! as i say another option is use unmodified mk2 regulators and simply run the 2 power wires to the logic board inside the mk4 motor. you can unclip the circuit board from the motor easily its just clipped on as i found out recently, then you'll see 2 chnky metal contaces on the PCB which contacts the + and - terminals for the mk4 motor to run it. you could even mount the mk4 boards inside the car and run power wires from there all the way to the motors in the door!
Thanks that was one of my worries, to go cutting into my door and finding out that it doesn't work, then finding out I can't fit the mk2 motor back again! I tried that hard wiring into the logic board, read it from another thread. But the window only went up in steps, am guessing because of the one touch? Thought maybe having this motor would give me this one touch (although I have seen the corrado and vw buses have one touch switches). Will connect it up and see what happens, then attach the window and see if that works. Then get the drill out!
The one touch function is either in the switches or a central controller, not the motors, so I can't really see the value in trying to get the Mk4 motors to fit...
Ah right that's good to know! Ill get some switches as well then don't like the corrado ones so much. Ive got a comfort box does that mean I can program the windows to open on the unlock?
yes the mk4 1 touch is all in the switch, its a 2 stage jobber. 1st click is open/shut, 2nd stage is 1 touch. its a real brain ache to figure out on the diagrams. edit: from my research total closure only works if you hold the key in the open/closed position, i guess via the internal lock switch in the mk4 lock unit. you can make it work off the keyfob only on certain convenience modules: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=148070
I have the same problem.. iv got a mk2 with complete mk4 loom in place, mk4 electric window motor works as should but when i remove the controls from the motor and joined to the mk2 motor it only works for a little bit then stops as said in the first post. What was the cause of this problem and how did you get working?
what I didnt know when I made the posts above is the mk4 motor has a hall sensor hooked up to it, so the control module knows its moving
the bit about the switches is correct though, the drivers side switches have 2 positions. hold it half way and then glass will move as long as you hold it there. pull/push it all the way and this activates the total closure. The mk4 motors 'learn' the fully open and fully closed positions using the hall sensor built into the motor
I have only tried it on passenger side yet. Thought there would be something like that in the control box.. is there a way to work the mk2 motors correctly?
you would have to mount the hall sensor from the mk4 motor to the mk2 motor somehow, along with the pickup ring. fiddly, but doable I suppose. my plan was to split the motor mount off the mk2 reg and fit the mk4 motor mount in its place, but thats a long way off I'm still in the middle of remaking my dash harness. the only potential problem I can see is the motor might turn opposite vs mk2 when mounted up, so i need to do a bit of experimentation there
Rubjonny.. did you look at this problem since? Or know if the hall sensor can be bypassed? Also have you got any diagrams for circuit board/central locking?
Not really no, small children and cars don't mix very well I got as far as offering up the mk4 golf plastic housing where the cable drum sits in to a mk2 regulator, the design is similar enough the cables guides hook onto it but the cables themselves are a little too short. The next step was either find longer cables or make some up, or my other idea was cut down the little arms on the plastic housing the cables guides fit up to the same overall length as the mk2 ones if that makes sense. Once you get the mk4 drum housing on the mk2 reg all you need then is a wee adaptor plate between door panel and motor to hold it on. Or my other thought if there is enough space is drill 3 holes same as mk4 panel has and have motor mounted on the inside of the panel behind the door card, but I doubt there is enough space to do that
Had another look at this think i might have a fix. But i had the board out of the driver side motor and powered up trying to find the switch pins on the board, multimeter lead slipped and shorted 2 pins! Since that central locking on both doors has stopped working but the tailgate lock is working. Checked fuses and tryed another motor still not working. Any idea what damage i have done?
Fuse 21 is first place I'd look, but it also does the clocks so I guess you would have noticed those beign dead. Also fuse 14 is used for the cl/ew system, but its an ignition live so i cant see it affecting the central locking. Thens theres a thermo fuse for the electric window & cl system above the fusebox though I'd expect that to reset once tripped, unless its been changed for a normal fuse?
