Mk2 Gti 2.1 ABF Track Toy

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by holdawayt, Jun 11, 2018.

  1. holdawayt Forum Member

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    How does the bracket attach to the lever though?
    I see that little hook on the lever but there's nothing on the bracket for that to hook on to.

    There's also a blob of weld where that hook is on mine so I think someone's been creative in the past.

    Edit - does it just rest on there and the cables keep it in place by being taught?
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep it just sits over the hook and the cables hold it in place :)
     
  3. holdawayt Forum Member

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    Serves me right for over thinking it! Cheers Jon.
     
  4. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Yes, chopped the tubes. Also chopped off the floor mounted reaction plate and made my own.
    Positives? Handbrake cable run better and further from exhaust. Handbrake works fine
    Jon
     
  5. holdawayt Forum Member

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    Picture-less update I'm afraid, thought I'd wait til the arches are cleaned up and coilovers are less crusty.

    But... the rear brake setup is finished and the handbrake works a treat. Thanks for the advice chaps. I'll put it all back together this weekend and take some pics.
     
  6. holdawayt Forum Member

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    I whipped the rear coilovers off this weekend for a tidy up.
    They looked quite bad and I was fully prepared to replace them but they tidied up a treat and with a bit of heat from a blow torch the locking collars span off no bother.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Fronts are coming off next weekend for the same treatment, I'll have to raise the car slightly too for track use as it's currently in poser mode.

    The handbrake and brake conversion is all done, I just need to take delivery of some 15mm spacers then I'll be able to put the wheels back on and adjust the handbrake tension. I really want it to be strong enough to hold the car still while I spin the front wheels up prior to a run. Hopefully the Mk4's will do the job.
     
  7. s1monc Forum Member

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    How did the trackday go?
     
  8. holdawayt Forum Member

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    Hi Simon,

    It didn't happen unfortunately, the Mk2 needed a few more things for the MOT and the other cars we were taking weren't ready either.
    The good news is that after new ball joints, rear wheel bearings and a new exhaust, the Mk2 is now MOT'd and back on the road so it's just a case of waiting for everyone else to catch up!

    Glad I did the ball joints, the car was wandering about terribly after the winter refresh. It's now feeling like it used to, incredibly agile and balanced. I'm slowly working through the running gear and improving bits where I can but progress is delayed somewhat because of the bike project.

    I'll do the gear linkages next as they're a bit vague and i have an annoying issue with the idle control module or the wiring that's associated with it. Sometimes if i disturb the wiring by the fuse box it simply won't idle, the ISCV won't buzz and it drives like a pig. Give it 10 mins and it's fine again. Really not sure how to tackle this as I can't pull the fusebox out enough to investigate. One to sort another day i think.

    Pic from the MOT garage highlighting how desperate the shell is for some attention. I'll get round to that once I've fixed everything else!
    [​IMG]

    Battery tray gave me some relief, solid as a solid thing:
    [​IMG]

    We've got a long test drive down to Paignton from Kidderminster on June 14th for a weekend away so that'll be a good opportunity to stretch its legs.
    Must keep this up to date more, I'll take some recent pics at the weekend.

    Tom.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2019
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  9. holdawayt Forum Member

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    The idling issue is getting annoying now. I spent an hour or so checking the sensors on the side of the head and repairing any broken wires that I found.
    I took it for a test run it and it was absolutely fine. Parked up, turned the car off and when I came back to it it wouldn't idle again. The idle control valve will sometimes buzz constantly with ignition on. When it's playing up it'll buzz for half a second as the ignition is turned on then nothing.
    Think i'll replace the head sensors because they're cheap and if there's still no joy I'll replace the idle control valve and module.

    In other news I've fitted an ancient steering wheel to the Mk2 because the cheap and nasty OMP replica (you read that correctly) was flexing as I pushed on it. Fine for looks but certainly worrying in an accident. Cue this old thing (I think it's off one of my old MX5s)

    [​IMG]

    And I managed to get a quick pic of the other half linseeding my bumpers with a pair of old socks, what a keeper!

    [​IMG]

    Hopefully I can sort the idling issue out and enjoy the car for summer. It's just annoying because it's intermittent and nothing seems to be obviously faulty.

    Updates as and when.
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2019
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  10. Nightroamer Forum Member

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    Give the idle valve a good clean as i ended up going through 3 of these before i fixed the same issue!

    Keep it up!
     
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  11. s1monc Forum Member

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    Typical old car problems!
    I’ve just bought an old retro 850 T-5R saloon which also has an idle issue that is driving me mad!
     
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  12. holdawayt Forum Member

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    The Idle control valve has been soaked in petrol and cleaned but nothing dirty really came out. I've got a replacement coming tomorrow which I'm hoping sorts the issue. I've double checked the earths near the distributor and have replaced any that look sketchy. Idle control module (black box behind the centre console) has been replaced and the issue remains.

    When cold the car will idle perfectly, I left it idling yesterday and after 4 - 5 mins it cut out and the valve stopped buzzing. I've got some FEBI sensors coming today which I'll swap the cheap GSF ones with (two have snapped somehow). Nothing looks untoward behind the fusebox but I'll clean up any earths that look worse for wear. The black ignition live wire from the module looks fine too.

    PS. if anyone can shed some light as to why my indicator / wiper stalks are sat on the wonk (See picture in post above) I'd be grateful. That's how they sit in their resting position. Not sure if it's because of the steering wheel boss that I'm using or what but it's weird and looks toss.

    Cheers all, hopefully some good news soon.
     
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  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the early spec ones are supposed to sit a little wonky but yours look to be rotated a bit too far anti-clockwise. pop the wheel, stalks and lock housing off and check your column tube is alright, maybe its suffered from a previous break in.

    See here the indicator stalk sits horizontal and mfa stalk points up a bit but not quite as far as yours seems to be
    scan002.JPG
     
  14. holdawayt Forum Member

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    SUCCESS!!

    After replacing the following parts the car now idles properly:
    - Idle control valve
    - Idle control module
    - Head temp sensors
    - Various fuses
    - Temp sensors on oil cooler
    - Accelerator cable
    - Wiring to throttle body micro-switch

    It turns out most of that was unnecessary except for the microswitch wiring and the throttle cable. None of the 3 wires running to the switch were intact and the throttle actuator doesn't hit the microswitch due to the throttle cable being so frayed and tired. It's now idling properly and I'm able to enjoy it again.

    I'm taking the car down to Paignton on the 14th with some friends, I promise to capture as much as I can in photos so that this thread is a bit more enjoyable! In the meantime here are some pics that I've taken since I bought the car last year.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. holdawayt Forum Member

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    It stopped working and it turns out it wasnt sorted before. It just hadn't got up to temp yet.
    Ive written a post on the Facebook page detailing the issues and will copy them over to here if I can't sort it there.

    Let down is an understatement.
     
  16. holdawayt Forum Member

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    IT'S GOING IN THE BIN!


    Not really, but I'm tempted. I've gone over a lot of the wiring in the engine bay and there are loads that are split, blue from copper corrosion or completely frayed so I've bought a replacement engine loom that I'll swap over this weekend. Even if this doesn't fix it, I will have ruled out a lot of things.

    I've now run through Jonny's Kjet setup guide and if anything the car is worse than when I started. Idle revs and CO have been set but the car doesn't sound healthy at all. If the loom doesn't fix it I'll have to take it over to Stealth or similar once I'm back from Australia in August.

    Apologies for the shite updates, as soon as it's running properly I'll start on the cosmetic stuff again.

    Cheers.
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  18. holdawayt Forum Member

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    Cheers mate, I think I'll leave the clever bit to Stealth or whoever ends up drawing the short straw. Spent enough on parts as it is.
    Once it's running again I might get the kit so that I can keep on top of my settings but I won't be spending too much more on fixing this issue until it goes to a pro.
     
  19. s1monc Forum Member

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    When I had that car I bought myself a CO meter so I could set mixture myself after I built the engine. It ran like a dream and I never had any issues after the build. I also took it to stealth for them to do the WUR mod although the guy there said it hadn’t made a lot of difference. Can’t remember torque but was 169bhp on their rolling road.

    How’s it going with the Golf now?
     
  20. holdawayt Forum Member

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    Hi Simon,

    I haven't driven the Mk2 for a few months now, every time I do there's a new problem.
    I don't want to destroy the hard work you guys did with the engine so I'd rather not drive it at the moment.

    It's going to Vince at Stealth on the 14th, hopefully he can sort it out for me.
    Will update with the good / bad news soon.
     

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