mk2 roll cage (fitting page 5)

Discussion in 'Track Prep & Tech' started by GVK, Dec 29, 2005.

  1. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    This type ? ... http://www.msar-safety.com/products.asp?s=Harness Bars&c=2

    I`ve not found similar for a Mk2 ...
     
  2. turbotommy Forum Member

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    Would there be any info/pics on the B pillar mounting? [:D]
     
  3. M7R

    M7R CGTI Regional Host

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  4. jamesa Forum Junkie

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  5. M7R

    M7R CGTI Regional Host

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    I have the cage finally!! does anyone have any more pics of the feet on thier bolt in ones? mainly safety devices just to make sure we do it correct next week when my master welder mate gets busy.

    also what have people done for the rear arches and the bolts? as I need to make sure there is ample support, due to the harness being mounted to the cage.. so in a crash it will try and rotate around the B pillar and try and pull the rear mounts out.
     
  6. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    The gist is the cage should be as high as reasonably possible. Until you get it and put the back half in the car, you won't know what height to position it all at. Get it as high as you can, dummy build the front and then look at the space between the feet and likely position of the footplates. Clearly you can't have feet staning off the sill/floor like statues - they need to be near the sill or floor, and it'll become obvious what options you have. Blocks of wood are ideal - have plenty to hand for a dummy install.

    Have some ratchet straps ready in case you need them for the main hoop, to pinch it if it's tight.

    On the rear arches, you can plate both sides.

    This thread I'm sure you've seen. Should be useful for feet, but I believe the cages shown are OMP. Post 2 tells you about footplates.

    You don't want a cage that is low and you're clattering your helmet off. Take your time and don't have someone lash it in in an afternoon because they're in a hurry.
     
  7. M7R

    M7R CGTI Regional Host

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    Cheers Chris, Its only a rear cage at the mo, as when I go full I want a multi point, but money is going else where at the mo.. but a half cage is better than no cage and it has the harness bars which was my main reason for buying it.. that and it was a brand spanking new safety devices cage for 230! (the lad paid nearly 600 for it not long ago!)

    I have got it in now and ratchet strapped it in place to various items with in the car so it doesnt move when I drive to work - no the harnesses are not mounted to it yet before anyone asks! - it seems a nice tight fit to the roof, but that is with out the spreader plates there! so it will be fun getting it back in when they are there!

    Ill get some pics up etc for others when its being done, but it does look impressive in the car with the full X in the back and the extra harness bars.

    the only other thing is I wouldn't mind getting the cage re-coated but that will mean losing the FIA sticker unless any one knows if these can be removed some how with out damaging them? (im guessing not as it would defeat the point of the approval sticker if you could easily swap them)
     
  8. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    :thumbup: ... look forward to the pictures / install, not seen that type of SD cage before.
     
  9. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Something doesn't feel right to me about mounting harness bars to just a rear cage install. It puts more stress on the 6 bolts through the rear arches, much as I'm sure they're enough, any stresses would (try to) tip the cage forwards, pivoting on the feet.

    Normally the entire cage is supporting the potential forces, stopping the cage from physically moving forward in the car, as it is complete.

    Folk get a little hung up on harness bars for some reason, but here is no harm in mounting harnesses within FIA recommendations:

     
  10. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    Chris ... interesting point, attachments to the B pillars should help if Luke is up for modifying the cage ... with brackets that bolt into the seatbelt top mount.
     
  11. M7R

    M7R CGTI Regional Host

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    the other way a harness bar is to be used is to guide the straps, so they go over the bar and then down to a mount else where, but in a crash this will still load up the shell.

    also dont forget that the harnesses are normally mounted with these:

    [​IMG]

    not exactly spreading the force over a big distance.... but they seem to work,

    plus the harness mount is not oin line with the B pillar its half way between the 2 sets of feet, so it will try and pull the rear arch mounts out while also trying to rotate around and push the front ones down into the sill.

    I will have a good look and I might just make an extra strap that can go from the harness bar down to the lower rear seat belt mount, that way its another anchorgae for the cage in a crash to help stop it being pulled forward.

    also B pillar mounting on a mk2 isnt that easy, as the laod is designed to be spread over 2 bolts per side, due to the adjustable height for the loop. so you would need to do the same
     
  12. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Please read the harness thread. Post 3 deals with this point, under the heading "Fails".

    In the absense of any other certainty, it is advisable to use the OE car achorage points for the rear seatbelts, and 2 eye bolts per front harness + washers, within the specified harness angles mentioned above. I'm sure you know what I'm driving at, but I'll say it (and don't take this the wrong way): this is safety, not fashion :thumbup:
     
  13. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    Ah ... I`d forgotten that [:$]

    [​IMG]

    ... always this though ;)

    [​IMG]

    Good luck with it.

    ..........................

    Great to see so much subject information on this `site` :thumbup:
     
  14. M7R

    M7R CGTI Regional Host

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    I hate to disagree but you can have a guide bar as I read it and I have seen it else where too... its just not very common, and pita to find examples off... mainly due to bneing if you have built the cage stong enough to act as a guide you may as well just mount the harnesses to it!:lol:

    http://rallysport.freeservers.com/eng-nrr02.htm

    about a 3rd of the way down,

    plus in the fia rules it states:

    The key bit there is "leaning on a transversal reinforcement welded between the back stays of the cage"

    also page 12 of the Schroth racing guide mentions that harnesses sould be mounted to the floor, and can go over a harnesses bar or guide.
    http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2011
  15. M7R

    M7R CGTI Regional Host

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    James - This is what mines like.. this is a 106 version, but you get the gist, mines just doesnt have the extra brace at the bottom of the rear stays.

    [​IMG]

    when I find my lead for the phone Ill get the pics of mine up
     
  16. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    This is very interesting - that's a USA webpage in the first link (refs SCCA), something I've never seen in FIA's Art 253, and still can't find [:s]


    Andrew, any thoughts?

    I think we'll need to move this discussion to the harness thread in due course.
     
  17. M7R

    M7R CGTI Regional Host

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  18. Tim8v

    Tim8v Forum Member

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    I have a tornado cage in my race car, but my harness is looped over and attached to the harness bars.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    Tim ... have you trial fitted the harnesses yet ?

    From that view it would appear that the bars are too narrow ?
     
  20. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    Last edited: May 16, 2011

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