I have noticed recently that with this hesitation/stumble that if i have the throttle pressed down a fair way it will happen between 2000 and 2400rpm but if i accelerate gently then the hesitation/stumble doesn't seem to happen at all.
because the engine is under heavy load when you put your foot down (fully open throttle) @ those revs ie. revs are too low to draw air into the cylinders due to the flow characteristics of the 16v head... when the TB is open a bit at those revs its fine as there is a high vacuum in the inlet manifold sucking the air in... not good for an engine running it under load ie. not responding to throttle movements. My new tractor has a running in procedure of not running it under load for the first 500 hours. therefore if im pulling a grain trailer up a hill and it won't respond to throttle movements i've got to change down untill it does. My old tractor was gutless as the guy before hadn't run it in properly.
i took the trumpet out the top of my airbox today and then had a play about with the hole thats left in its place. i sanded that to give a rough bell mouth effect. as a result... the car sounds more like something with a cone filter once the throttle is open. there is a definate loss response. on heel n toe down changes i naffed up the first couple, effectively you needed more of a blip. once flat out, no major changes, i think there was less of a drop off in torque after 6k (or was it flatter leading to 6k?) the speedo said differently though. it looked like maybe 5mph extra in certain places, so i think im impressed. when im feeling less lazy i might attack that make shift bell housing again and may even get gtech to give a visual plot
What is this G Tech you refer to Matt, have seen you mention it a few times in the past in various other threads.
its something details use to get high gloss deep shine out of their exhaust pipes not really [YOUTUBE]<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/mmfwg5eoAFs&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/mmfwg5eoAFs&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>[/YOUTUBE]
[YOUTUBE]<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/AH39Xem_TBg&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/AH39Xem_TBg&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>[/YOUTUBE]
Looks like quite a cool piece of kit. Bit expensive for me at the moment though from looking at prices and details online earlier.
the essex cgti lot did a group buy on one last year. my original 0-60 was 7 dead, has since crept down to 6.6s. it will also do dyno plots so you can see how mods have effected the torque curve of the engine etc
Sounds like a good piece of kit. How much was it on a group buy? What model have you got? Theres a couple on ebay at the moment but they look like old models.
http://www.gtechpro.com/rr.html thats the one we got, it has the dyno bits on there we paid about 30 each between about 5 of us
I have noticed over last couple of months that when i boot it in first (up to around 6k) when i put my foot on the clutch to change gear the revs stick at around 6k then slowly drop off. Also to get anywhere near 40mpg i have to be driving to work like an old man (15mile journey) Also takes miles of motorway driving to get up to and over 40mpg.
Its annoying, was thinking it may be an air leak somewhere, my old mk2 used to do it when the vac pipes were shot. All the ones on the ABF are new though. Maybe those green caps on the servo vac pipe or the 90* angle going into the servo? Makes it sound like your a sh*t driver
Hey guys, Over the Christmas holidays i tried another throttle body on my ABF which i borrowed off a mate, When i put it on and took it out for a drive it was a completely different car and accelerated from idle a lot better than it ever has, however it was quite jerky on and off throttle and the idle was slightly higher than with my throttle body on. I have put mine back on and it has gone back to poor acceleration from idle, I tried swapping the TPS around which made no difference on either throttle bodies. My mates spare is slightly dirty but didn't have any carb cleaner in the garage to clean it. Could the high idle be because of the dirty TB?
iirc on my TB it'll go to 72* and on my mates TB it'll go to 71*. I can't seem to understand why the TB that opens to 71* has much better response from idle speed than the TB that opens to 72*. There's only the TPS and Throttle closed switch on these TB's that can go wrong. Oh and i put the TPS off my TB onto the one i borrowed and it still opened to 72* as it did on mine.
without a cts, ive never noticed a difference. with the other tps, was it giving a smooth read out as you opened it on vagcom?
Yeah both TPS's were smooth when playing with the trottle pedal on VAGCOM. The TPS on my TB has a higher resistance with the throttle closed than the TPS on the TB i borrowed of my mate. Also it still has better low down power using my mates TB with both TPS's tried. I also now have a leak on the passenger side front footwell. Its some how coming down the panel where the electrics go through for the door. The plugs are wet on top and also wet inside the multi connector when taken apart. I'm thinking its the sunroof drain as i'm pretty sure i could see evidence of water the other day.
