I know some dont bother with em. Have you had any issues...you could argue the fact a stone could get wedged with them on Between disk and guard. Had any mot issues not having them?
Rust - you said it's been a Scottish car. M14 splines on rear discs carrier,you can get the special VW tool from Autodoc, even still a pain to undo. I had the rear discs guards go on my Edition 30 , the local garage fteed a pairfrom TPS, sorry my invoices all went with the car, unless I posted something on my thread. Many people leave them off.
Managed to undo 2 last weekend with laser M14 12 point.wernt easy was actually getting to the point of removing the hub and taking it to a garage somewhere lol. Good news found some brake guards on a skoda parts supplier in the Czech republic. Cost 32 euros for the pair 282mm. And fedex express 19 euros.but I'd rather have em on tbh. Dont think they would have been cheaper here if I'm honest if I'd found them.
One side of car is now completely repaired very pleased with my efforts.paint match is spot on considering this is one of the worst colours to get right.
Re your question about wax. I believe VW used/use a hot applied wax. If you took your car for a repair, they won' use that but they would use a Henkel product: You can buy the "repair" wax from VW but its around double the price of getting it from a Henkel supplier and is the same stuff. I also really like Bilthamber Dynax S50 which would an equivalent to WX350 or WX215
Was slightly convinced the new paint was a bit more white but I think I've looked at it too much and now I'm imagining it.im more than happy with it. Before and after.ground out,rust treatment, 2k primer 3 base coats,2 laquers,and polished out this is a patch repair on panels But pretty seamless blend.
This is a better picture.the candy white is on about 6/7 inches of bottom of wing. And about a palm sized area on door corner To wing..laquer is about twice the size of the Colour fading out to an overspray then buffed out on the join.not easy but doable I used to be a sprayer doing furniture a bit different.
Another side done this was worse than the other.new backplates as there wernt any,new disks,pads,caliper,springs,shocks& all rust dealt with.a lot if nasty bolts that were corroded now sorted. Black,yellow&red bit of a German theme here Wasnt planned.
After assembly of back end car never felt right when breaking like catching harder on rotation of disk.discovered run out on the hub so stripped it all again easy this time as all has just been done.but I've been caught out like many I suppose and been supplied the wrong hub despite me saying is it definitely right.supplier got it wrong now waiting for another.one step foward and two back.
Great job nas and good spot on that rear hub! Good job you kept the old part to check - in my younger days i used to just throw everything but now I keep it for a bit for this very reason!
That's what I thought.gtis are 30mm r32 32mm? If anyone can advise on my hub fitting be much appreciated.fitted hub today with new Bolt. Done the new bolt m18 to 180nm then tried the 180 degree final turn but have only managed about 90 degrees.i have heard of some.people putting a small amount of copper grease on thread(I havnt)as I beleive this would give the wrong nm readings.and a dry bolt is a tight bolt imo. I am only using 1/2 tools and 2 foot bar. Think I need a 3/4 drive spline and a 4 ft bar to get the final 90 degrees.foooking tight that is.
Might just see if someone else can do that last bit.dont think my wheels gonna fly off With 180nm and 90 degrees. Is this meant to be done dry thread as that how I've done it.ive read some people lightly oil bolt but that's a big no for me.
