my 8v digi woes

thanks chris, isv buzzs as it should, iv got another il try, its just starting now its running right.

il have a look at that site. remembered i got think automotive round the corner, i bought from them when i had my 20v so im going to try there.

thanks

 

iv ested both icvs and both buzz and both open and close with 12v. i unplugged the idle switch and revs go up to 2k.
the icv pipes were a little perished so iv wrapped them in tape till i source some good ones.
in traffic the revs sometimes stick at 1200 raiseing itself to 1500. anything else it could possibly be?

 

When the revs sit high, try unplugging the ISV connector and see what happens....

If the revs fall to a normal(ish) 900-1000 then I'd suspect the valve

If not then either your base idle is set too fast on the idle screw or you have an air leak...

Be careful to check the throttle microswitch operates just as the throttle hits it's closed stop and also check the microswitch wiring. It often snaps...

 

thanks chris, im suspecting an air leak.
i did what you say this morning, i unplugged the isv and nothing happened, so i plugged it back in and unplugged the throttle switchs, the revs went up to around 2000 rpm.
iv checked the switch clicks at the right time quite alot recently so im sure thats ok.

after tapeing up the rubber L bends on the isv pipework today it was alot better on the way home.
it did it a few times but only rose to about 1300 and dropped strait down to 1000 then the normal 800ish idle.

so i think it must be an air leak or the isv i had on there, as i put the other one i had on, but i beleive them both to work fine.

anyone know if the pipes are still available from vw?
or if i can get them from euros or gsf?


thanks again

oh yea,,, anyone ever found that the vacuum needle on a gauge to shake rapidly at idle but as soon as the trottle is touched it smooths out?
i think if it was my guides it would do it up the revs then smooth off,
anyone got any experience of that?

 

also it wouldnt be the cause of my oil temp going up to 114 in traffic would it?

 

idle has turned out to be a vac leak at the isv johnny.
cooling systwm is working as per your faq awell.
have have two idle screws both with new o rings. base idle is at at1000,
would like it to idle at that all the time though.
new mobil oil last week and its still quite high.

thanks johnny

 

I've got a spare setrab oil cooler you can have it if you like, just need to get yourself a sandwich plate and pipework then

 

actually I have some spare stainless braided pipes too laying around you can have. All parts are brand new

 

exellant. pm me withwhat your after for them please. will just need a sandwich plate and a bike fan then.

thanks

 

my saga continues.....
car seems to be idling really well, driving not to bad, slight niggle that if i let the car idle, then raise the revs slowly to about 2k, or anything off idle reall upto about 3k, it seems to be running really shaky and the engine bounces.
could this be a misfire?
im drawn towards fuelling but what does the fuelling off idle without load.
could it be time to mod my afm??

 

could it be my hall sender? it has a remanifactured dizzy on it, and i have to clean the dizzi cap turminals every week cause they go white.... forgot to mentian this..

 

so now the cars running better i thought id try the cam on standard marks.
after putting my new tb on made idle smoother.
i took the car for a cpl mile drive. first impression is it feels the smoothest it has yet. but feels flat all the way to the limiter. and when i look down im packing on the speed.
but im getting the metel sound. think its pinking. on light throttle and random when accelerating. not really bad but noticable.
could the flatness be the cam needs advancing. and the ignition knocking back from 6*?
feel like im getting some where now.

thanks again

 

Put the cam back to equal lift on overlap firstly. It will be flat if the cam is overly retarded or advanced.....

Light throttle hesitation is most probably a weak mixture. This is controlled via the afm at light throttle loads.

I'd be setting an idle mixture of 2% co initially via the normal cts rev 3 times method, then remove the afm top cover so you can see the spring and black toothed wheel. Mark the initial position.

If you release the spring clip and SLACKEN spring tension by a couple or 3 clicks it should richen up on light throttle.

I'd check and adjust back to 2% idle co afterwards too, then see how it drives.

Any detailed adjustment needs a rr to quantify how the adjustment are affecting afr

 

ok. cheers chris. car didnt get so hot today and was very smooth. il try what you sugest. and go from there

 

any sugestions of how i can set equal overlap without a dti gauge. is ok to do it by getting the buckets level with a strait edge. solid not hyd!

 

Do it bye eye so buckets are both compressed equally...

It will be close enough before you eventually go to Stealth...

 

ok. i took the cover off to find the valves sat at different angles. set at tdc on flywheel.
i undone the belt lined the cam at eqal. and the vernier at zero. and the teeth on the pulley lined up with the teeth on the belt exactly. so the vernier had to go either way. so i moved it back so i still got advance but not as much retard.

and after everything the origanal mark on my vernier. that looks factory. lined up with the rocker cover when fitted. not the head.
and thw standard vw pulley mark is only half a tooth retrded from the vernier mark.
so on standard vw marks. the cam was about one and half teeth advance. from where i got equal this time. il do the co and afm when i get home.

if it dont make sense its cause im on my phone

 

That is jibberish!!!

Cambelt shouldnt need loosening! Just undo the vernier screws so the belt remains stationary but the cam can turn..

Use a ring spanner to set the cam to equal lift on overlap then do up the adjusting screws!

 

sorry bout that.
pictures speak a thousand words. this is my tdc mark at the fly.


when i timed it up the cam was on my marker from the standard 8v pulley.
cam sat like so.


this was around 1.5 teeth too advance, from eqaul.

had to take the belt of to get the cam far enough back to eqaul it.
after equal overlap it looks like so.


with the cam vernier zeroed, the pulley and cam belt matched up ][ like so.
so i had to move the outer part of the vernier either way to get the belt on.
so iv set it so i can advance more than retard. i,e i moved the outer part of the vernier forwards.

now everything back on and all the bolts done up.
my vernier has always had one mark on, which is a cut between the cam pulley teeth. i always disregarded this as it was half a tooth away when i lined it up to a standard pulley.

but now, all set, this mark lines up to the top of the rocker cover, instead of the top of the head.

hope thats clearer

so on the way home, before touching my fuelling, it felt not to bad, started picking up speed around 4k but revs slowed down, so like its pulling but the revs are rising slowly, still looks like its going when it gets to the limiter!

im going to set the fuelling tomorrow and see how it feels. gonna do my spare afm tonight, bolt it up and set the co tomorrow.

long winded post but thanks for sticking with me if you got this far

thanks to everyone