Plan is a full rebuild on the bottom end. I hope to fit Buick pistons to it as they are larger in diameter(around 84mm)and for nothing new. Ill prob have to re-profile crowns to suit the digi head but Ill have to see them first, their in the post, its getting a 95.5mm crank too. Another update.. Alternator bracket coming off... Pulleys.. Pump... Lower timing belt cover... And the shield plate, Quick spin of the stand and onto the sump... Off, Windage tray removed.... On to the pump, 2) 13mm bolts.. Off, notice its a cast crank, the 2.0l 16v of the same era has a forged item.(6A) This also has a trigger wheel unlike the 2e.
Got a few bits for head skimmer which Ill be starting into later this eve, anyways, few pictures for the time being.. A mans tee Box section, this will be the main pillar, Im going to strengthen it internally and also fill it with concrete when finished to cut out any twist that may occur. And the main shaft I made, Ive no pictures of the lathe work as the battery's died, but Ill be doing more lathe work later. Made the nut also from 50mm hex bar. Ive made a few of these similar to this for various machines so Im dare I say 'used of it'. I wont need all the threaded portion but I cut them that long for handy-ness to save parting the end off. Pulleys, C/w taper locks, I thought I took pics of them all, Ill have to retake.. And the means of rotation! Brian.
Thanks lads Template for bed toe... Transferred to plate with scriber... Cut.. Cutting notch... Complete and checked for accuracy... Pillar dressed ready for welding.... Clamping them up, and again, checked every possible way for accuracy.... Tacked all over... Finish welding....
More finish welding..... Rear.... Sides.... Brace for underside of toe tacked in..... Finish welded.... Heres a rough plan of said machine, I didn't bother doing a working drawing as its pretty simple and I have it down in my head, Ive a fair Idea where the machine needs to be strong and also design it in such a way that the machine can be adjusted for accuracy via shim paper if needs be. Brian. More later... Brian
More updates, started base tonight, had an hr or two spare.... Pillar prepped at base.. Dont know why the 90' angle brace looks so off 90', its not.... Tack.. Finding the intersection angles for the 100mm x 50mm box frame.... Weld.... Two legs.... Weld.... Done...rear brace across back yet to be fitted.... Almost finished welding to base......bit more to do tomorrow....its bang on square every way I can think of which is a relief, I know I can shim if needs be but its nice not to have to shim anywhere too much. Brian.
Don’t get me wrong it’s a considerable effort you are under taking. But surely some one local must have a Bridgeport which would do a better job in terms of flatness.
I wont get you wrong at all, Ive a bridgeport too, but the table isn't long enough when a large fly cutter is fitted. Head skimming is rarely done on a bridgeport anyway In a proper engine re place, but on a dedicated skimmer. As for flatness, thats up to me and the effort I put in... Few more updates, did a bit of measuring to see what x travel Id need for carriage, thats a 20v head on there but I left it long enough for the Vr6 and Audi 5cly head too.... Fitted a brace plate to nose of toe... I had a load of box offcuts but none long enough to span bed, so I set about joining 4 together, while flatness of bed isnt too important at this stage as the bearing slide mounts have to be bolted on and can be shimmed, its nice to get it flat anyways.... Welded and true... Squared, checked and tacked...and checked again...you can see where both box sections are joined at the centre.. Cosy... Finish welded... Front rail checked and tacked... Finish welded... End cross braces tacked in... Triangular under-brace made up and tacked.... Welded, including brace up to toe... As it stands for today.... I have to fit a few braces inside here for headstock carrier before I fill with concrete.... Brian.
More..... Did a highly scientific bit of height measuring to figure out a few things, It not that important as Ill have a nice bit of quill travel but I have to be in range with the linear slide bars... The measurements prob dont make any sense, but they do to me, most of them!... Time for the two pillar braces to be fitted, give it a bit of strength where needed, concrete will help an awful lot, but I like to be sure... Hollow bar on top, can also be used for lifting machine by passing a chain through hole... Tube fitted... Weld... Solid bar will do for lower brace, one drive shaft well and truly put down Fitted... Braced. Time to make up the up down, or z carriage, two RC60 precision high carbon linear rods, 30mm. Great care is needed for welding precision stuff, careful planning needed in order to balance out the heat stresses of welding, as shown below as a demo, notice bar pulled away on the left hand end after tacking. Done.. Slide carrier template, 90' critical angle... Cut, fine finished, checked... Goes on here... Clamped.. One fitted lower down also to carry rail... Lot of bracing to go in yet in this area... Rough plan view of one side of linear system, two roller mounted with their axis at 90 degrees makes for a very good tried and tested slide system.. Brian.
Small update, A better Pic of skimmer as I left it.. Cutting the two wings for far side, Ive the grinder so well trained from all the years we spent together that it now cuts all by itself, and bang on square too Welding in one of many braces between wings on the right side... And setting up the left side, clamp central! Again shimmable out at the quill, but nice to be accurate all the same... Because I ran out of rods I gave the lot a quick run over with the drill and wire cup, I want it clean for marking etc..for the next bit... And ya can see where I ran outa rods....shame..thats 110 used on this already...and only half way there. These are going to be closed once I finsh weld the bits below either side....Ive a bit of boring to do before that though too... From the top.. One rail tacked on roughly so that its easier for you to see how itll all work... Four bearings either side of quill box carrier will run on rails as shown by sockets....a pair at the top, pair at the bottom, same other side... Slide rail on left will be adjustable for setup, Ill bolt this one on with some 12.9s, that way I can get an extremely good fit in relation to the bearings/rollers on the quill carrier. I could use cam bearings(adjustable eccentric) as my slide bearings and it would save having to make the rail adjustable, but I cant use them for another reason which will be clearer in a while. Fitted rear braces to wings...sides still have to be closed, but not yet.. Ground welds as I want this area fairly flat... Did a few more measurements in order to start into quill box... Quill/spindle with flange bearings fitted to get an Idea...thats a 50mm nut on there remember so its nice and stout overall.. Cut out the first few bits for quill box, these have to be fairly accurate so they took a good while to marl out, cut, de-burr, grind, square, and check again, and there was four.... Sides... front and back... Checking in the clamps... Tacked... ok.. Give you a rough idea, lot of work to go into this yet, may as well tackle it though, waiting on a few bits for the rest of pillar/base/carriage.. The most Ill ever want to skim a 16v head, or any Vw head is very slight, to put it into perspective, just roughly 1.5mm off one side, therefore the spindle needs to be adjustable for this angle at cutter, you could of course shim up head on one side on the bed, but thats a bit messy, and given the fact I can do what I like at this point an adjustable Quill is the route Im going. Thats where the flanges come in, the bearing is of the self aligning type, which means I can adjust to top flange bearing in and out and the bearings will still function, I have thought up an adjustment system and vernier scale that will allow me to do so. Quill angled an exaggerated amount below to show how the bearings function...
Quill box vee grooved before welding as Im going to grind these so Its a way of getting good penetration..(no Jokes!) Welding... Rods I got weren't great, back onto my usual rods again.... Ground... Radius ground.... Onto bearing carrier plate for lower bearing, boring the centre hole, a bit of wood used to guide core at the start.....otherwise the 6mm pilot bit will break... Started and away... Bored... Pcd marked for bearing flange... Bored, 12mm.. Old flange bolted on for set-up and bolt head hex's aligned parallel with quill box sides, this is where all the accuracy counts...tips of hex's front and back ground.. Fitted onto Quill box, sides stop bolt heads from rotating on all four bolts allowing nuts to be tightened... Clamped... Tacked and grooved.. Welded....high power here and as a deep a weld as I can burn.... Ground... Linished for smoothness... Onto top bearing carrier tomorrow, its pretty complex because it has to be adjustable... Onto the top plate which Im going at now for a while, eccentric bearing is rotated once flange bolts are loosened slightly, pulls arm and in turn moves flange bearing thus changing fly cutter/Quill angle at face, Ill have to make a pointer of sorts too as shown below, thats the rough Idea anyway, Ill see how I get on sure, if I need to make changes I can! Brian.
A closer look at the 8v tensioner which I intended using revealed that it could be split, and the eccentric bearing would still be ok, so I did just that... Laid out roughly on plate to get an approx size... Cut out... Small cuts in end where the grinder had marked plate from cutting other bits... Fill... Ground... Edges linished... Hole bored for eccentric bearing stud/bolt... Flange bearing laid out to final position to find con-rod length... Con-rod rough cut and larger hole bored yet to be finely ground to allow interference fit onto eccentric bearing... Edges ground and linished, 5mm pilot hole for bearing carrier locating pin/screw bored... Guides either side to do tomorrow along with grind hole, and fit top bearing flange... Brian.
Small update, its been a slow few days, But, I did order the slides for the carriage, they're bosch items, and top class when it comes to carriage slides, I had intended making the slides, but they came at such a good price I couldn't not get them, plus, the machine itself will save me a lot of money so why not. I have also come across an add on which can be fixed to carriage too which will allow me do machine really cool stuff which Ill also want, so thats good too. Few pics of linear ball slides for the time being, these are extremely high load and tolerance, and German made of course And the tech drawing, slides are 1200 long in my case, but you can get them in any length. Ill be using 2 rails and four blocks. These blocks are of the recirculating ball bearing design. Should be back at it in full swing the weekend. Brian. More details on Bosch linear motion here
Back to the engine for minute while Im waiting on a few bits for skimmer to come early next week, I want to pull a piston and con-rod to do a bit of math and measuring for the 95.5mm crank as it will change things a bit, keep in mind its not Vw pistons that are going back in here also. I decided to pull number two piston and rod, although Ill be pulling them all and changing crank and pistons, from experience number two is always a good one to start on as it seems to wear the most on the big end, so its a good indicator of engine health, especially on a G60.(which this is not) Its a 2min job to pull a piston.... Off with the 2) 14mm nuts.. Off with cap and lower shell, and hoses fitted to bolt threads, these mind the threads on the way out, hold upper shell in place, and also protect the crank journal should they hit off it. Pushed down bore... Nearly out, one sharp tap with a timber rod, out she comes... Cap and lower shell refitted, nubs should be opposite on rod on cap when together again(Top of pic)... Pistons came, 84mm, from an Italian car, Ill be making them fit this block, Im not sure on pin height on them yet as I didnt get a chance to measure them, or infact pin diameter, but whatever it is Ill make them fit, Im not that worried, its the 84mm Diameter which got my attention, which is why I got them. The only Vw pistons that come in 84mm bore are R32 items, and the fact that the piston crown is angled, makes them un-usable. You could get custom 84mm pistons made to suit this at a cost of approx 600euro, Im not going spending that as I have the means to make any other 84mm piston fit, and also get my chosen compression ratio in the process. I spent a long time looking for the above and working out if the skirt on them would be suitable, taking the rpm limit from the car they came from into account and there material/surroundings, so please, if you want to know what car they came from, and are interested in fitting them yourself, pm me. 84mm is as some may know a large piston to put into these blocks and some may fear that they are too big, and that the bores will wobble leading to compression ring seal breakdown, well fear not, Ill be drilling gas holes in the crowns around the circumference down to behind the top piston ring. These holes let the chamber pressure down, and behind the top ring, in effect pushing it outwards against the bore wall at all times. This is common in racing engines for just the above boreflex problem. Ill also be grouting the block to approx a little less than half way up the water jackets to stabilize the bores even further. Ive read a lot of proven pdf test results on this and it has just a very small effect on cooling as most of the heat is in the top 10mm of the cylinder anyway. Ive also been inside these blocks and know where the weak spots are. Even taking all these steps it may still need a rebuild sooner than a normal build, but this is what performance is all about I guess...this car will be my daily so it has to be reliable so Ill be taking my time. I got the carbon fiber, resin, alloy plates, ptfe sheet, brass sheet, springs, bolts, micro switches, and boring heads to make the slide throttle assembly also. Ill be pulling the rest of the pistons tomorrow, and stripping the head ready for the build, Ill be putting over-size valves in there too, such an oversize that I have to rip out the seats, rebore the head, and install the bigger seats. The rest of the stuff for the skimmer should be here mid week, Im totally out of plate steel so Im waiting on a plate to be cut. I also got the 150mm diameter x 75mm alloy blank to make the skimmer/cutter head.
Picture of alloy for slide throttles, grade and makeup/spec is En Aw 6060. 500mm x 20mm x 100mm. Nice stuff, more pics of a lot of other bits later when net speed is up, started crawling half way through upload... Few more pictures of more stuff before I go posting up more engine teardown pics, Carbon fibre for intake plenum(Airbox) And one of the resin kits, this stuff is almost the best there is, there is another but the specs that it has way exceed what Im doing here, its more for aerospace and F1 stuff, so this is just what I need. Im still waiting on an anodising kit as you cant fibre directly to raw allow as the composite will corrode it but that should be along soon. One very exciting water pump....cant remember what make it is, Ive used loads of same make before without any bother.. Oil cooler.... 2 pack epoxy, this is the best 2 pack epoxy know to man, full stop. 8 buckets, the ones I have here are a bit worn on the tops, and I haven't even any to re-con, it killed me to buy them, Oh well....They're standard Oem nothing fancy. Full Oem hose kit, the ones on the Mk2 are a bit auld, and the ones off the Mk3 engine above are a bit different, so ya, new ones were needed, Ive wasted enough of my life being ''concerned'' about old hoses when pushing on, or being very far from home! Again, Oem, Thats all for the mo, more pics and stuff later. Brian
Unbelievable amount of engineering you are doing here. I simply would have no idea where to start. Really admire your dedication to building something which is exactly what you want it to be, why settle for something inferior when you can build one you want yourself!!
