1st layer... Main section wrapped...I taped it after to tighten even further, thats the layer that matters really as its internal surface has to touch form all over, I can add the other later in what ever way I want now pattern-wise...Ill have a run with some cloth templates once this is dried and any rough spots sanded off, see what kind of patterns I can come up with, Ideally Id like to wrap it using just 4 pieces, top doughnut, bottom doughnut, and two bits on the centre section, but the centre section may run to 3 bits depending how much the kevlar fights me...I could just wrap it again with an 1 wide strip, Ill see how it feels. The bracket for the return springs, its just a little tower that goes on the long bits I left on lower plate, most of it will be/cut shaped its just left big because the cloth was that size...5 layers, 1mm, and wrapped in tape to level/squeeze. Done... Various cable parts Ive gathered...
Update, Took trumpet off form, came off pretty easy when slit with dremel, I dont know why I haven't more Pics of removal I thought I had, anyway, thats it off below and re-glued along cut again. The spring bracket also popped off easy... After looking at trumpet once fully dry Ive decided to put just one layer of carbon on the outside instead of more kevlar, it seemed a waste going with another layer as one is insanely strong as is...so what I intend doing now is putting one layer in the middle of plenum also and therefore getting away with less carbon fibre, I now think just 3 layers will do plenum cabon, kevlar, carbon. Looking at my rolls of both I can get them out of one cross-cut too. This will all end up a lighter assembly this way also. Id honestly say I could have stood on trumpet without it collapsing, it really is serious gear! So onto the carbon layer... Just laid up, and before I wrapped it with tape to squeeze out excess resin... Once dry I gave it a rough trim top and bottom and removed tape(it comes off with water). A quick sand on any extra resin had it looking like this... Inside... I still have to go over it again with water paper, wax it, finish trim, etc but Its shaping up well. Ive another laid up on former so Ill get the other 3 done pretty handy after trying it all out on the first one. Got the spring bracket done... The springs will sit towards the top inside the bracket so access to the idle grub screws isn't hindered too much... Water papered, waiting final papering/wax... 1 small bolt will fix it there because if its shape... The modelling foam for intake form, this is great stuff, it cuts/routs/carves almost like mahogany... There is no substitute for this foam, kingspan style insulation, or flower arranging oasis's aren't dense enough, Ive checked. This has a density of 140kg/m3, off the top of my head kingspan is around 70kg/m3 so you see the difference... Foam glue up, all cut oversize to be shaped later...I believe you can use normal PVA glue too, but the one below dries in 2hrs Ive a crap mig welder which Im going to re-wire for use as a hot wire cutter, I cant be bothered pulling the battery from the car, after all the mig is just a variable transformer, I dont see why it shouldnt work, Ill just set it at a very low amp setting and see how it goes, Its fan cooled so it should be ok for the short while its on, the arc itself is kinda of a dead short too anyway...We'll see later.
Hot wire construction, may as well fire it in here too...Its a very important tool in the cutting process of foam which ill be going at next. Taper Jig... Sanded up a little bit... Groove... Rivet bit off pop rivet so timber wont get too hot, hole is 5mm for a bit of an airspace around it... Groove... Wires are from the ignition part of a Mk3 Golf... Rigged up to welder in no particular polarity(don't matter) set on the lowest setting... Fist wire I used erupted because it was flux cored mig wire, I forgot about the flux inside, Its now running a strand of wire from a wire rope, works a treat, you could use a guitar or piano string, or I guess any wire thats upto the job... Turned up a bit for camera, doesn't need to be red hot to cut foam, just hot enough. Another 'item' out of the way.
Hot wire worked well... Did a few tests to check settings before I started into the main former. You can actually cut pretty fine detail with it even free hand... Onto the main setup... Dried and mounted... Switch on and turn... Ill be re-using this bit for the base... Setting up for width of top cast plate... Trimming to width... Height... Test... Ends... Test fit... Glue... Taped,(and weighted down after) I did a small test with some isopon on a waste piece to see if it melts foam, it doesn't, so I can use that to blend/smooth/prime all the foam parts together in spots when its done.. Thats enough make and do for one evening...
Picked up the block today from the boring place, have to say I thought Id have to take it off them again, he kept asking was I sure I wanted to go ahead with boring to 84mm.....''The block is paper thin and Ill definitely hit a water way'' was how each call went every time, it got annoying to be honest, In the end I said look, Ill pay you, you bore it and Ill do the worrying, he still wasn't happy, I then told him the block thickness in different areas, that surprised him I think as to how I knew off the top of my head.. He then rang and said could he skim block in order to get a good surface to bolt the torque plate to, I said ya, skim away, as a matter of fact I said, take .85mm off the deck while your at it, to which he had another canary.... This is why Im building the skimming machine, I just hate all this explaining and ''Oh...that wont work'' ****e. Also, it came to a grand total of 280euro to bore and skim it......and I had to sign a sheet saying it was on my head if it gave trouble after.. Imagine if I wanted to bore it to 85.5...I think Id just build a boring machine to be honest. Im not going to name the place as they are top notch at normal stuff. Ill throw up a few pics later, going at foam form for a while, progressing nice with the trumpets too, suits to work on the former, as the trumpets take time to harden etc... Few more bits, Stainless tubing for re-routing the oil lines inside block, I think they're 15 and 18mm, I cant remember, The shafting for scavenger pump build, this is 4340 precision 14mm shaft, common uses are, aircraft landing gear, power transmission gears, shafts and other structural parts... The original Vw pump rotors are an interference fit on this shafting. The block... 84.10 bore... Miles of metal left in there yet. Did a bit of fluting about lastnight testing my bender on the stainless, it bends it fine, had to press a bit harder than with copper, but it works. Going to use the old flange onto pump, bored out old pickup, gave it a polish...perfect.. Thats that ''I wonder can I bend it test'' over with. Have plenum form nearly done too, pics up later, Ill soon be able to complete the slide throttles fully.
Bit of an update on this, and long before I thought Id be doing it but I had to start into it the last day as Ive a few throttle bodies to make for a guy, and while Im at it Im going to pour the part below to make it worth while putting on the smelter, The part is a crank girdle, nothing new to these engines, theyve been around along time, all the commercially available ones are just approx 6mm laser cut steel plate.. Thats lovely and all with a price to match, but Ive always felt when looking at the that 6mm is very light. While I wont be revving this engine to 8k every day of the week I have seen engines(other makes) before and after a crank girdle was fitted and proper ones do really make a difference to running, they run way smoother and quieter with them fitted regardless of hp. The 058 vw block and the newer 06A have the main caps really ''out there'' in relation to support, as in, they have no support. A girdle ties them all together, and also onto the bottom lip of the block its-self. Onto the pattern anyway, this is pretty simple, Ill be casting this using the lost foam method, that is, you make the pattern in the modelling foam(2nd sheet so far) taking all clearances etc into account, you then pack the sand around the foam shape, you can then pour directly down into foam to make the part. The molten metal vaporises the foam pattern on contact and fills the void it created in the sand, In this case the crank girdle. Sump outline... Mocked up with a 2.0l crank...you can see its pretty tight around pump body... The caps sit lower than the bottom lip of block, and the bolt counterbores lower again, this means Ill have to step down the girdle to meet it, but that wont be too bad... Marking out... Fits ok... Number 4 conrod nut hits it, but this is the 2.0l crank, so the 1.8l crank will drop it a bit more, Ill can sand the foam anyway for final fitment/clearance, and indeed the alloy with a carbide burr in spots if I need to... Foam cut(Full thickness) Cutting down to required thickness, With everything, it stays flatter if you take the same amount off each side, this applies to nearly all material incl steel blocks... Screwed down under template... Again, 10mm bit and 14mm guide bush in router... Cuts very nice, nearly as well as MDF... Laid down to see... Needs a bit of clearance for pump body as it sits at an angle... In... I have to lighten it up a bit yet in spots where I know I can, Ill be using another template to do so, and a half moon router bit but its nearly there, bit before time, but it suits me to pour as I mentioned above. Ill also be checking clearances for a final time as I should have the 1.8 crank in a day or two.
Lightened it up in a few spots, just made up another jig to rout out the pockets. This is done both sides. Sanded at all edges... Screw holes plugged... Approx alloy cc calculations, Ill need extra too for risers etc... This is a complex pour in order for it to all come out ok, Ill explain later why it can be a problem on a part like this. I just have to attach the pads on the underside for the bolt pads and its ready for the hot stuff, Im going vent it well, and put a few risers at the thicker spots. Ill also be feeding with 3 gates, and maybe 3 or 4 chills near pattern, in sand to aid solidification at the farthest points from gates. The problem is, you have to plan the best place for the colder metal flow fronts to meet, the bond isn't as strong at these points so they have to be in non stressed areas of the part. Meant to throw up these earlier, plenum former nearing completion> Intake tube cut... End belt sanded/finished by hand... Intake end shaping... Blended by hand... End plug glued on... And top fillet, an off cut from cutting main cylinder, most of which will be sanded away/blended to form smooth transition profile... Thats pretty much how I left it the last day, It needs a final blend and smoothing/check, and the parting line spacer fitted. Im then going to give the whole lot a plaster wash, Ive decided itll be far easier smooth than Isopon. Once its bone dry Ill waterpaper it, wax it, and hit it with some carbon fibre. I need to find a large zip lock bag that Itll all fit into too, as Ill be vacuum bagging this one.
Got a bag, fits grand, thats that problem out of the way. Final rough shaping> Almost ready for plaster smoothing coat. Got the girdle pattern almost done, hope to pour later> Sprue's... Tagged together while glue dries... 5 risers fitted... The risers will be approx 2 inch below the surface of sand and a vent hole leading down to them to vent smoke. There will also be multiple vents around the part to also vent smoke from vaporised foam, failure to vent properly can lead to a ruptured mould. The 3 sprues(fillers) Will be fed from one trough approx 9'' long, and semi circular. This should keep the sprue's molten until last so that the part will be fed from it while it cools. The risers should stay molten the fact that they are blind(not coming to the surface of sand) Ill also insert chills, these are just metal block/off cuts, they are placed near the mould at whatever points you want it to solidify first. They are Important tools in the control of casting as you can then pick where you want to solidify first, usually the thicker areas, so that they cool rapid, and dont have to be fed until it is all solidified. Got the pads on that will space down onto main caps, these are just little bits of pipe spacer in the commercially available Vw girdles... Pads were ran off in one length and I just cross-cut off ten of them. Cap in place, you get the idea...bit left on them for machining etc..
Cut up the AHW block a bit, got a surprise actually which slowed me down a bit, its got dry liners, which I never knew. I thought these were Nikasil(electro deposited lipophilic nickel matrix silicon carbide) coated alloy bores, but they aint, there cast iron dry liners. Ill also add that this engine that the block came from had the famous 1.4 16v knock, I can say that the liners, the rings, or the pistons had not an ounce of wear on them, ZERO. So Im not fully sure why these burn oil and knock like they do, Ill have to study the rest of the parts until I come up with a reason. The big end shells were also mint. Also, before I pulled crank I datumed off points along the block around the main cap areas with the parallels and the dial gauge , on removing the crank I re-checked, there was no differences in both sets of figures, Indicating that ''the blocks will warp if you pull crank'' story may not be true. Im confident its not true at this point. Anyway, a few pics of the famous 1.4 block before I start to melt it down to in order to make it into parts that will actually be good You can see here after one cut part of the liner chipped off, it was at this point I had to re-think things, I actually thought the lot would be useless but I discovered that the liner actually comes away from casting pretty easy. These are NOT pressed in like some dry liners, but moulded in at the time of pouring. Alloy jacket on the left, liner sleeve on the right... Time to get down to it and split it right down the middle... Split, and liners removed, they came out pretty handy with a small bit of help, back to 100% all usable alloy again, no waste. These are really odd engines, and the problems that go with them, the alloy block would not help in the deadening of any knocking or tapping that would occur though, unlike its cast Iron counterpart which is excellent at deadening. Which could be a lot of it, sounds that may go unnoticed in a cast iron block would show themselves easier in the above block. And twice as much given the fact that its open deck too. Ill have to examine the rest of the bits and try figure it all out. I have all the other parts incl head. Bit off topic as always, but interesting non the less. Plenty of alloy in it I have to say, which is why cutting it up came about.
Filled any sharp corners with wax to give the finished part stronger lines where it changes thickness upto pads... Making the new taller, larger cc crucible, the full guide is in the casting thread on the first few pages, its the very same construction, but done in 15min... Because this part has the little cap steps in the bottom and the indents I couldn't just leave it on a flat bottom bed of sand so I had to think of a way to reverse fill, and with the risers and sprue's in place, so I did... Marking their positions on a flat board... Drilled and chamfered... Fits, and sits flat... The outer lower frame test fitted... Laid up on blocks to protect the risers/sprues from the floor level... Filling... I filled it as above and turned it over... Lifted off board with all the holes and test fitted top frame, you can see it filled good all round pattern, tamping the sand is a boring job, but it pays off... With the top frame test fitted I removed it again and raked a groove all round the pattern so that the top layer of sand would interlock with the bottom, and so that no metal could possibly find its way out... Vents inserted, I just used welding rods, its amazing how hard it is to find straight wire when you want it, they'll be grand for re-use again after... I removed a few later as they were in my way for the 3 sprues but theres still plenty. Chills inserted(heatsinks) These suck the heat from the thicker areas that are not near the sprue or risers, remember these risers and sprue's fill the part as it cools(shrinks) so any areas away from them don't get fed, so they need to be cooled first and fast so they don't shrink. I guessed there positions with what felt right by spending a while looking at it. Now, this is why it took me so long, and why its so late...I ran short of sand which led to a lot of problems. I couldn't reach the tops of the risers, vents, and sprue's with the amount of sand I had so I had to heighten them without sand...this wasn't fun and took ages. I've more sand on route but its not here yet. Keep in mind I had another pour going on at the same time as this which took a fair bit of sand too. I chose to compromise on my mould and used what I had because I wanted the other parts 100% and wouldn't take short cuts with them as they were for someone else. You can see the pipes I used to rise everything in order to gain head height for the molten alloy, more head height is always good, both for pressure, and the amount of alloy you have stored to feed things as the part cools...even the vents had to be raised, as one low vent, and all your alloy (stored height) flows out it. Lowering the level across the full mould, = Bad. Fits good, its now the same height as the refractory lining, the max I can go with this smelter, but it holds A LOT of alloy... I didn't take any pictures of the melt, or it lit, sure your well used of seeing them now! Poured, you can see the various bits in mould I used to try and take up space in order to give me more sand where I wanted it! Talk about running tight. It vented very well, and I got flames in all the risers, I pretty much knew at this point that it was 100% inside mould. They all lit at pretty much the same time which also meant that the riser(fill positions) were pretty good also. I spent a long time thinking about there positions and how the metal would flow at various points inside the mould. Spending time doing this pays off in the long run. Gave it about 8mins and started clearing... Lifted out, you can see it filled perfect, with no voids, cold fronts meeting, or low spots, I was very happy when I saw this, makes me think that foam is a brilliant way to cast one off parts from now on as it holds detail very well, is easy machine, and is quicker to mould as you dont have to split mould boxes to remove pattern. Gun was showing it was still at 400 degrees! Gave it a bit of a wire brushing to recoup as much sand as I can... Topside, vents just snap off easy, the chills also worked well as you can see as there is no shrink in the areas away from sprues/risers. Thats where I left it for tonight, Ill give it a proper clean tomorrow, cut off risers and sprues and itll then be ready for the small bit of machining it needs. All the research on casting Ive done over the yrs is finally being put to use, I thought Id never get a chance
Got the risers and sprues cut off and it brushed up a bit, may as well finish this out as Im waiting on a holesaw before I can complete slide throttles. Mounted again as I did with the throttle plate, fixed in three points, no rocks... Setting up...not much has to come off, I think I took off a total of 1.2mm to fully flatten... The various light passes as before... Gave the indents a light pass to to clear them out if anything else, same template that I used to cut the foam pattern...had to finish at that as I ran out of wd40. Finished cleaning up the indents> Lapped the machine marks off face(lower) with some 600 waterpaper... Gave it a run of the mop to remove any sharp corners... Linnished edge want this smooth as can be as it will be outside, Im hoping it wont hold dirt as much as other cast finishes do...may polish it altogether, dont know yet. Needs a serious clean then Ill be ready to finish up the upper side and get it all drilled after.
Got the other side done, Ill let the pics do the talking, got the outer ring of sump holes bored after that also, still have to bore the holes for main cap bolts... Fits down onto caps and block skirt...Ill check crank to girdle clearance once I have the 1.8 crank in there... Marking outer holes... Just the main cap holes left to drill... Hope to get throttle bodies and plenum all done this week. Got the part lines inserted and filled on the plenum former. These will end up being the carbon fibre flange faces where the two halves(top+bottom)will be screwed together once the top and bottom are separated off the former. The carbon will be laid over the former and out onto these timber slips before being vacuum bagged tight onto the full form. Once dry Ill trim the flange surfaces to say 12-15mm wide, a neoprene gasket will sit on the lower flange which should form an airtight seal once the two are bolted together again. Melted a centre line all round the form, the front I had to angle down in order to get the top and bottom mating line down and away from the inlet hose/neck. Superglue! No need for dovetail joints here Filler, just normal board filler/plaster crown moulding filler... This is good gear and sands easy, Ill sand it once dry, check it, and give the whole lot a thinned down wash of the stuff again in preparation for the final flattening for the release wax. Just working on the shape/design of the scavenge pump foam patterns now
The start of the scavenge pump build... Its a 2 section pump, that is two scavenge sections, Ill be getting my pressure feed from the internal factory pump, but feeding it remotely and doing away with the pickup and sump. It will be fed into base of pump where the pickup attaches normally. This idea struck me one night, and once its done, Ill have a dry sump system, cost free, bar the fittings and hoses. It will be a bit unusual but I want to try it out and see how it comes together. Im using four pump rotors and two vw casings also for the scavenge pumps, Im doing away with the bottom part that holds the pickup and relief valve. Ill just be using the main bodies and rotors.(x4) After looking closely at off the shelf dry sump pump plans this will do the trick nicely. Theres just one catch, Ill have to make the divider sections between them, and also the pulley end section. The end section on the pulley end will hold a bearing and oil seal, and so will the section on the other end. The middle section will have a hole through it(like the pulley end)but it will be a clearance fit with the shaft. All the bits will be then bolted together with four long bolts/rods, the whole assembly screwed to a back plate, and then mounted where the pas pump would normally go. Thats the plan anyway. The sections will also hold the fittings, and some oil ways into and out of rotor chambers, the chamber below the rotors will be connected to the dry sump pan, and the section above them to the oil tank(supply to main pump). Ill explain further once I have the dividers cast, but this bit below is just mocking up the rough basic shape of the foam patterns. Ill be casting them using the lost foam method again, like the girdle. The pumps, this is all Ill be using of them. Thats the shaft you saw earlier running through them... The end the pulley will be... The chambers, top is the pressure section I need to send to the tank, and the lower is what I need to connect to sump... Foam... Marking out rough outline... Basic shape cut out ready for fine tuning/lightening... The square bits top and bottom are where Ill be threading in the fittings to connect hoses... Ill need two... Pulley end section rough cut... All three ready for fine tuning/sanding shaping etc... The inlet and outlet to pumps will be on the same end of rotors, but this is not an issue Ive discovered after looking at other oil/dry sump pumps. Thats as far as I got, I want to keep the bottom end of engine moving as well as the top half/head so itll all come together at roughly the same time(probably not ) Bit of a boring update but cooler stuff to follow... Got the form rough sanded in prep for the slurry coat of filler, I may give it two coats yet, but I may hit it all smooth first time, Ill see when I start sanding once the slurry coat dries. I mixed it about as thick as soup... Paints(slobbers) on pretty good...dries quick though, ten minutes and the brush was starting to resemble all my other 'used' brushes... I have a few checks to do once its finish sanded...that is, measure in from timber slips to plaster above and below part line, to make sure the plaster is exactly opposite itself so that there wont be a little step when both carbon fibre halves are brought together, If ya know what I mean...
A quick pic of the 1.8 crank, c/w trigger wheel... Had to sieve and oil the sand before I could do any more casting as it was gone a bit dry and lumpy... Passed through the riddle... Also mulled it after, engine oil works fine...its a slow job doing it by hand/trampling I need to make an automated muller soon... Got the patterns finish sized and smoothed... Moulding it up...I did these two first as I was a bit tight for room to do the three at once... Filled... Turned over... Raked out around edge radius to make sure It fills with sand ok since it was filled face down on a flat board some sand didn't make it tight around and under pattern... Fitted a very crude sprue also!... Vented... Filled... Charge ready for ignition...lining in smelter is holding up pretty well for home-made refractory... Poured... Moulding up the third part...same as above, Poured... Something like this> Bit of machining to be done of course, and a few other bits made, back plate, mount brackets, but ya, thats them three parts cast and out of my head anyway. Got the plenum sanded also, gave it one more light coat, that should do with regards final smoothing...Ill know tomorrow once its dry.
the ecu, megasquirt, want to give this a try for a change, Ill be able to play around with it which is good! Opened it up to check soldering, these are hand built, its spot on> The enclosure, Ill be binning this for a higher automotive spec enclosure, this one isn't fully sealed> Loom> One temp sender I got with it> The knock controller> The communication's cable> Got the former almost ready for fibre, nearly all smooth now just to go over a few bits. I had hoped to fibre this this week, hopefully my vacuum bags will come in time so that I can.(volcano dust cloud holding up air transport) Im going working on finishing the slide throttles now, there aint a whole lot left to do really so I better get them out of the way before I start the throttle to head runners(Which will be a pretty complex mould layout) Onto fitting the throttle stops> Trimmed the plate to length first> The fixing hole for spring pillar> Fibre bored fine... Tapping> I have to get washers and nyloc nuts for everything in general but Ill mock it up with normal nuts for the time being. Some bolts are too long also, I have to size these once done... Sizing the phosphor bushes> These locate snug in spring eyes, even though they(springs) will be pre-loaded in the rest position I do not want anything rattling(ever), this is a major point throughout all the design with everything> I know what your thinking, its very near the edge!! I tested an off-cut of carbon, there's no way in hell thats going to pull out of there, its fantastic stuff> Bored also> Bolted>(Ignore the overly big nut for the time being)> Time for the idle stop> Bored> Counter-bored> The lower part is off a racer bike(pushbike), 316 stainless> I based the stop(s) design around them> The bush is there so I can get a spanner on the small nut in order to adjust it, and lock it off without spanner snagging cast stop tab> Tightened up, end of bolt bearing fully on brass throttle tab>
Quick end view>(Plenum form needs final finishing)> And from the front> Time for the full throttle stop and cable guides> Bored> And counter-bored, I counter drilled to the same depth as Idle stop as drill press was still set, but used a washer to bring height to where it needs to be> You can see the outer diameter of ferrule bears on throttle plate. This ferrule does two things, acts as an adjustable stop, and also acts as the cable guide> Cable passed through, it comes in just at the correct height under brass throttle plate> Bored for cable grip, the nut on the grip is being replaced with a nyloc> Hole drilled for cable sheath stop, tapped also> The holder widens in diameter after the threaded portion, I had to counter-bore down this depth removing the threads in alloy so it would seat on its shoulders> Bored> In and cable guided through> Getting there with this now at last. Once I get my throttle pot ill deal with that also. Got the reamer for the scavenge pump. These are used by hand to accurately ream out an undersized hole to the correct size, and very precise too. Got an extremely good deal also, its a Dormer reamer, the normal price was 68euro, I got it for 25euro as I got other stuff too off the same guy. You could get one for a tenner but they tend to be crap. Onto mounting the throttle potentiometer(pot) and link arm... The ecu uses this sender to gauge throttle opening in order to calculate how much fuel is required. This senders range is I think 80 degrees, or just under a quarter turn from idle to wide open throttle. This can be all calibrated with the ecu software but the linkage still has to be near right. It works similar to a volume knob on a radio. I have no idea what this is off as I found it in my parts bin, its the same as many generic Pot senders and its new. You can see the shape my spindle needs to be to fit into it and turn it internally> The sender also has slotted mounting holes to enable it to be clocked if its a touch out of range. Onto the link bar to fit onto throttle tab and attach to the crank arm which will turn sender> 6mm aluminium plate, spec, 6061> Although this link bar has no real load on it it needs to be stout enough so that it does not vibrate, something I saw once where a guy had used some 2.5mm wire as a link from his butterfly throttles to a remote mount sender, at around 2200rpm the wire started to vibrate much like a bonnet stay does sometimes. This vibration could be seen when looking at the pot input values while the engine was running, I made a better linkage setup for him and he had no probs after that. I don't want that happening with my setup. Marking out> Drilled out and reamed to 9.80mm> Pressing in the bushes> In> End radius cut and linnished> Bending, first bend> Second bend, checked and adjusted> Lightening hole centres marked and centre punched> Drilled, ready for clean-up> Ends reduced down to bush width> Water-papered> Buffed> Link is very light and extremely strong. Ill be mounting the pot sender next and making the second crank style link to attach to the link above.
Mounting the pot> Bush pressed in either side as with link> Finished ready for ream> Reamed to 6mm> Holes drilled for the m4 fixing screws, tapping> Tapped> The spindle below, this is from a 20v head, its pretty hard get a bolt with a 6mm shank, any bolts I had here had m6 threads alright, but the shank was just 5mm, due to how the threads are formed. So I had to go another route that left me with a 6mm shank, and m6 threads also. Hence the stud. Screwed a nut on there and tightened it until it bottomed out, rounded nut after> Down to 8mm> Because Ill be cutting off a 1/3 of nut I had to tack it on there> Cut> Now fits into pot> Trial test> In, and turns free> Next up the short link onto pot, this is a crank arrangement and although a crank style link like this is not 100% linear in respect to the rate of throttle opening to the rate the pot will turn because of the crank angle at the start and full open position, its hardly worth worrying about, but worth a mention. Im making this in Carbon fibre with a foam core. I could just make it in aluminium but I want to try out carbon over foam also including inserts. The bush sticks out .5mm either side, once the carbon is applied and vacuumed this protrusion amount secures the bush in the carbon skin. The carbon can then be sanded leaving the bush flat with the surrounding fibre. It is then both stuck there, located, and with the case of the bush going onto the pot spindle, unable to turn in the link. Serrating the pot bush so it gets locked in place> Before I hit this with some fibre Im going to heat the pot bush to remove all the oil I can from it so that it bonds better(Phosphor bronze has oil in it for better bearing performance) The pot bush wont be turning on shaft but locked on so it doesn't matter if I do this. Im also Interested for down the line projects, in the weight comparison between the above carbon/foam link when done, and a link the same shape, but in alloy.
Onto the fibre... Because this is a small part going in a small vacuum bag I thought the vacuum pump(its big) was a bit of an overkill to suck the air out so I improvised> 1 old silicone tube...plunger removed, The longest wood screw ya ever saw in your life!> Vacuum pump done! > Nozzle taped into cut corner of ziploc> Done, works good, and holds vacuum, The various bits you've seen before> Bit of shoe polish on the inside of bag> One side laid up> Turned over and onto other side, Ill be leaving about 5mm of a lip/flange around edge when trimming where both sides meet> All done and inside> Checked, then I pulled out plunger as far as I could, worked really well for a basic setup> Ill crack it open tomorrow and trim her up, from looking at it, it looks like it'll be ok. Dried good, going to give it another day to harden up fully then Ill start trimming> Did a bit with the scavenge pump, as I said, I want to keep the bottom end parts moving along as well as the bits for the head... Cut off the sprues and marked drill holes, theres a fair few stages involved with these in the line of boring and jigging so it all has to be thought out> First bout of drilling> A picture of the reamer, its a perfect fit... With the parts pinned together I drilled the other hole... Drilled> All drilled and counter-bored for screw heads> Notice its the three hole deal again for mounting when machining, three legged stool never rocks... Starting into it... First pass at .50mm> And the second and final pass>
I got them all machined as above, either side, three parts in total> Ill be drilling the 6mm holes in them larger later, which will mean they'll then be 90 degrees to the newly machined faces... I might lap all the faces yet Ill see, although the camera doesn't show it, they're dead flat despite the crazy appearance!> You can kinda see where my inlets and outlets need to be above and below rotors> Two 6mm rods> Its now possible to drill the inlets and outlets> I had to pack one side to get the correct angle on the opposite side> Enlarging for fittings, Ill be tapping these later, hole is 32mm deep> All done, inlets and outlets on both> I cut the flange bit off a spare pump case to get a better idea of where the inlet and outlets need to be> Rotors fitted, inlet/outlet shape is very clear> Bit too close of a close-up... Inlet drilled to 16mm, it meets the first drilling below it> Bit of porting with the 12mm carbide ball, handcleaner works good to stop it clogging, or wd40 if its a small job like this> Poor picture... Quick check> Drilling the outlet, 12mm hole fitted here, Ill be opening it up to scribed line> Ported it, and moved to the dremel to get into the corners> Like so! > Top view, bit of fettling to do yet but almost done on this one, the other one (cast section) will be the very same. Picture of the tap there too, for the fittings>
Got the second one done(ported) the same as the first> Tapped the inlets/outlets> The cast taps real good> All pinned for a quick look at things> Drilling holes to 8mm and counter-boring the lower hole> Time to dowel them together for boring the mainshaft pilot hole, Ill be reaming this, and also cutting a large counter-bore in the first section for bearings and oil seal, The spring pins> These are spring steel and almost impossible to cut up in this state, so a quick run with the blow torch to red and let cool naturally anneals it back to semi soft again, making it easy cut. Counter-bored the 8mm holes to 10mm for the dowels/positioners Heated the cut pieces again to cherry red and quenched them in water, this makes them attain there 'spring' again, Tapped in, Section placed on, Sharp tap, Two more tapped in, You can see how they now locate casing, Another intact casing tapped onto them, and an oil oil pump drive spindle... Ball bearing held into factory centre drilled hole with some grease, fitted spindle down into casing(its the fit for hole!) as above and gave it a tap, the ball left an indent where the shaft centre will now have to be drilled, tomorrow hopefully...
