Got the main shaft holes bored... Pilot drilling, Reaming, You can see the finish the reamer leaves, Compared to the drill bit... Stacked to check clearances, Checked holes for squareness in respect to shaft and rotors using a small bit of lapping paste between rotor and section, its a very fine grinding paste much like valve grinding paste used for jobs like these, a couple of turns of the rotor highlights a circle an etched and that it is indeed square/ok, Did this with all sections, The oil grooves milled to oil rotor/section interface, also done on the two section, And the oil drilling from outlet to end hole where the shaft spins, I thought this was the best place to tap it from as the pipe up to tank will always be full of oil even after shutdown so the bearing should always be wet even if the car is sitting for a while, again, also done on the centre section. The same pipe up will also seal the rotors with this same back feed/head pressure so they'll never run dry or not pump on startup. There will always be a small amount of oil in the pipe to run back and keep things wet. Stacked and all spins free. Ive to cut two more oil grooves yet, and also drill out the end section for the bearings/oil seals. I can then lock the rotors to shaft, bolt the lot together and machine the base where it sits onto the mounting bracket. Getting there slowly... Scored these on ebay last week, I got them for around 2.50each, cheaper than hydraulic fittings at the time on there! They're m18x1.5 one end, and an -8 the other. There also alloy, anodized black. Screwed in temporary, Ive to face off the cast yet under hex portion on fitting... I had an insane job trying to find bearings with a 14mm bore but I got them in the end, these are open and not shielded as I intend oiling them from the pump itself, that also means that they need an oil seal, like your crank/cam oil seals so I had to get them too, funny enough, I had no bother finding oil seals for a 14mm shaft... These have to be fitted/pressed into a counter-bore of course in the section itself. If I had the skimmer finished the boring set would be ideal for this job, but I haven't it finished yet so I had to come up with another plan to keep things moving, so here it is> One old oil pump shaft, remember this is also 14mm, Rotor driven off/removed, You can see its a bit bigger in diameter than the rotor... I cut off all but one tooth...
Grinding to cutter profile, With shaft inserted and bearing dropped on I can see were my ballpark cutter diameter needs to be, Checked and finished with the diamond hone, Im pretty used of making cutters for the spindle moulder so it was pretty quick grinding this, With the oil shaft cut at the waisted section I can now mount it in the drill stand, drove on the rotor again, Test, fits snug, and it should too! (reamed) One turn by hand to check cutting angles are ok, Mounted in the stand, went down approx 1mm to check diameter, I need it a bit smaller than bearing for a press fit, it actually came out at 25.750mm(I think) Boring, I got It bored to my depth but the memory card was full, I now need to counter bore the top section of hole for the oil seal, much the same plan as above. Time for the oil seal counter-bore, the diameter of this was bigger than the rotors so I couldnt use them as a cutter, so I made a basic fly cutter using the same oil pump shaft/spindle as I did when boring the bearing housing, Tapping shaft, 12.9 m8 bolt threads in, tip ground to cutter profile, Bored, Tip reground to form a lip at bottom of hole to provide seal there too as oil seal counterbore just hits m8 allen head counter-bore, Done, Snug press fit, And the final bore on the bearing counter-bore to provide pressfit, Thats it folks, all project worj is now here and up to date, Ill add every eve as it progresses. Thanks for looking and I hope your phone line in didn't go on fire when you opened the pages Brian.G
Its not actually too bad, I just make it look hard/long, taking pics and making it so that it makes sense on a forum is the most intensive bit Im enjoying it though, to say the least. @ Ez, its basic stuff really, done with basic tools. If you think it out theres a way to make anything you want
Hi Brian, If you ever fancy coming to live in my new garage, please feel free. But bring all your machinery and stuff along as well, please. I can feed you constant beer, tea, toast, etc. You'll need to make your own carbon fibre bed and cast your own kettle. Cheers, Trev
Genuine LOL right there Trev, thanks for the offer, the toast sounds good, have you got a coffee and cigarette machine too?
Brilliant. This how this were made before mutliaxis milling machines and complex castings were the norm I think.
I cannot believe you could find the time to eat toast, drink coffee or smoke Brian! Absolutely stunning array of knowledge, skills and work here too. Have you got a few moments to run the country?
Page 3 stalled my computer! Page 4 was interesting. Aside from integrating a bearing into the oil pump, and apparently adding a sandwich plate, I assume you are then fitting a dry sump/scavenge system?
The two vw pump casings integrated between the sections are my scavenge pump(s). Im leaving the shaft driven pump inside the engine as is, but remote feeing it from an oil tank as you would with a normal dry sump system. Its just a different way I thought about doing it, and had never seen it done so I want to try it out. Its also costing me nothing. 700euro for a dry sump 3 section pump is out of the question for me. I can buy a truck load of raw materials for that which I can have far more fun with Im confident it will all work, thats the main thing! Thanks to all for the replys
This is brilliant. Its like a science class crossed with car porn. When you said you were a cabinet maker Brian, was it on the european space station?
@Airforce, I hope to @chris Doubt they'd have me on that yoke.. @ Drunkenalan, genius this is not, I seem to like re-inventing the wheel though FINALLY got the bolts i wanted(got 4), I could have used threaded bar, but its a bit agricultural i feel. These are tidier but a bit harder got than I had expected... They fit the counterbores fairly snug, They end just flush at rear of pump. I could have tapped end section but Im going to sink a steel nut in there instead, doing it this way made boring the sections easier as they were all done in one drilling operation. Counterbored> Nut points marked> Dremel In, Mocked it up to see if it all lines with shaft inserted, thankfully it does spin free with bearing pressed in also and everything in place, And on its side showing the bases of sections where I can now mill them flat the fact its all bolted together, the pulleys Im using are off an AHW 1.4 16v engine, the bigger sprocket is off the camshaft, and the smaller the crank pulley, I reamed the bigger one to 14mm so All I need do is lock it on there. Ive to groove shaft for a circlip between bearings, and also lock rotors to shaft, drill one more oil way, mill and tap the base for mounting to bracket, clean them all up do a final assemble, strip them all again and I think Im going to clear anodise all parts to save them a bit. Not too bad really, sounds a lot, but its handy enough. I also have to make up two shoulders on the crank pulley to keep belt on there. Updates regular again now that Ive all the bits I need for the next few weeks, Brian.
Time to mill the base of pump flat for mounting to bracket, this wasn't as easy as it seems as the base has to be parallel with pump shaft so that the belt runs true and so that its flat in general. Due to the shape of the pump body I had points to datum off directly to fix it for machining so I set about making two plates to hold pump parallel to shaft, Two bits of brass off cuts soldered together and bored, Reamed, Bolts holes drilled in there approx positions, Parts split again, Laid down for marking plate height, Cut and plate bolted in between end section and casing, the shaft running through the reamed hole in brass, End plate slid on, pump now sits parallel to shaft, Clamped down with an off-cut of chain and milled, three passes did it, And turned over, Milled, the flat sections here will let me sit it on the drill table to allow the fixing holes to be drilled square, Like so, Brian.
I got a few chemicals for the anodising process that Ill be carrying out on a few parts over the next while. The next bit deals with very dangerous chemicals so If your going at this yourself read up on them and take all the safety measures needed, this stuff will kill or seriously hurt you. Im pretty familiar with chemicals and chemistry in general as it was one of the few subjects I paid heed to in school but Ill say it again, if your not, read up on them. First up is sulphuric acid this is 60% acid and Ill need to water it down for anodising. If you are diluting acid always add the acid into the water and not the water into the acid. Id also suggest leaving the container in another container, and leaving them on the floor where they cant fall. Next is the etching agent Ill be using to clean the parts before I anodise. This is almost pure Sodium hydroxide (NaOH). Also called caustic soda, its actually the stuff you can use to unblock drains. It can be got anywhere for cheap. This is just as dangerous as acid as it is a very strong metallic base. Ill be mixing this with water to form my solution for etching. When this is mixed with water you also get a reaction called an exothermic reaction, that is it gives off heat, lots of it. For the first test I mixed it approx 1:1 with water and it reacted around 80 degrees so you have been warned. I dropped in a bit of cast aluminium as a test piece to see how the 1:1 solution etches it. The reaction was instant and violent, Another important thing you need to be aware of when etching aluminium in Na0H is that the reaction gives of hydrogen, and lots of it, because the alloy takes the oxygen atom from sodium hydroxide(NaOH) which takes the oxygen atom from the H20(water), and lets go the two hydrogen atoms. You can see the ample hydrogen given off below, enough infact to light it. So you might want to do this outside, and keep the fags in your pocket. With the test piece taken out after around 30 seconds you can see its well and truly etched, far too much infact so ill need to water down the solution way more as I don't want the etching to affect my dimensions, just provide a key for the anodising process after. Parts need to be washed in water(distilled if your dying parts) to stop the reaction with the sodium hydroxide otherwise you'll have no parts left at the end of it. Im going to try 6 parts water and 1 sodium hydroxide later, should be ok I feel, I can give it more time in there if the etching isn't enough. So thats the chemistry lesson over, you have been warned its very dangerous stuff, both acids, and strong bases(caustic soda). Brian.
