OEM MK4 management wiring => Mk1/2/3 harness install FAQ (Now with added dieselness!)

Discussion in 'Engines' started by rubjonny, Nov 8, 2013.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1) you can use the mk4 golf one, just file out some ears on the original clutch switch hole so it looks like the brake switch one. a mk2/corrado/passat cruise clutch switch would go straight in as well, but these are usually expensive. if you can find one seat ibiza 99-01 clutch switch is same fit as mk2 but without the vacuum pipe connection

    2) to bypass you need ignition live on the white/yellow and earth the black/red, this will fool ecu into thinking brake pedal is not pressed. I just wire them in on mine, only a couple extra wires

    I've updated the main post with this extra info :)
     
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  2. sergio cabañas almario New Member

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    Hi i rewired all but theres 2 pins that i dont know what are they used for :
    In t10 white i have pin 5 red/blue
    In t6 red pin 2 green/red
    Do you know what are these used for ?
    Many thanks and sorry for bad english xD
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    sorry about that I must have copied and pasted some other incomplete list, heres the complete one I found: (edited my past post as well)
    T6 - red:
    1 - blk/pur - switched live for ecu, ecu pin 1
    2 - blk/grn - reverse switch
    3 - red/blk - starter motor live
    4 - grn - aircon, ecu pin 8
    5 - blu/red - aircon, ecu pin 10

    T10 - white:
    1 - gry/wht - diagnostic K-line, ecu pin 19
    2 - grn/wht - mpg signal, ecu pin 18
    3 - pur/wht - fuel relay trigger, ecu pin 4
    4 - blu/yel - fuel pump relay live for MAF and N80 valve
    5 - blu/red - fuel pump relay live for lambda probe
    6 - blu/wht - VSS signal, ecu pin 20
    8 - red/grn - ecu permanent live feed, ecu pin 3
    9 - grn/brn - rev counter, ecu pin 6
    10 - blu/blk - reverse switch

    T10c - engine bay:
    1 - grn/blk - oil pressure switch
    2 - blk/red - ignition live for speedometer sender
    4 - pur - dash temp sensor
    5 - red/pur - injector live
    6 - yel/blk - fuel pump relay live for N75
    7 - brn - earth for coilpacks
    8 - blk/pur - live for coilpacks
    10 - grn/wht - speedometer sender feed to clocks
     
  4. bigdirtyturbo New Member

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    Hi all, great thread here can't say how much is helped over the last week's.

    I'm swapping my AAA VR6 to BDE and I'm nearly finished. but I'm stuck on something, and I just can't see past it... Maybe someone can help?

    So.. I'm not getting power to z1 with ignition on, I changed the factory 167 relay to a 409 relay and still. Nothing. The only way to power it up is using a 100 relay..
    I've checked all earth's, so ECU, G1 5+6, T14 7+9 are all grounded to battery/head etc.
    Knowing all this what does it tell me??
    I paid to have my IMMO off but could that be the issue?
    Thinking about it could check for signal at G1 3 when turning on ignition?
    Is that how IMMO works, cutting the fuel relay, and in turn all the rest?

    Sorry if my first post is something that's been discussed. I couldn't see it..

    Any help would be appreciated.
    Dave
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Check while it's cranking over. I believe the V6 ECU doesn't prime the fuel pump on ignition and only runs it when cranking. Check if you can scan ECU with vagcom, make sure the throttle does it's buzzy routine ignition on

    If you used G1/10 for anything you need an ECU relay
     
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  6. bigdirtyturbo New Member

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    Ok so I can scan. I have codes for sai secondary O2 etc. All deleted and need coding out.
    I have 18058 which is I believe something to do with communication with the gauge cluster.
    No other codes.
    The TB does it's buzzing on ignition so there's power there. Even got spark when cranking.

    Think I'm just missing fuel, or maybe injection issues?

    And G1 10 on mine is unused. I ran the mk4 ECU relay to G2 4 ign live fuse 15

    What does IMMO control on this ECU? Do you know?

    Much appreciated mate I'll check the lot whilst cranking tomorrow.


    Dave
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2021
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Ok cool, make sure the 30-30b jumper is there. If the car runs with the 100 relay fitted in slot 12 you know there's either an issue with trigger wire to G1/3 or ECU itself isn't triggering for some reason. If still no start then look at crank sensor, immo, bad ECU flash job.

    Usually if immo is an issue car will run briefly then cut out
     
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  8. bigdirtyturbo New Member

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    Ok great, the red jumper block is there yes. I'll look into those things tomorrow and try and see if I get a signal from ECU to G1 3.

    Hope it's not the !

    Thanks for your help

    Dave
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    To rule out loom and fusebox pop the ECU plug off and switch ignition on, then poke an earthed wire into the purple/white ECU pin and fuel pump should run
     
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  10. bigdirtyturbo New Member

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    Is that the bigger of the two plugs?
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Yeah the big plug, ECU pin 65
     
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  12. bigdirtyturbo New Member

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    Ok, I'll check it out. And let you know what happens!

    Cheers
     
  13. bigdirtyturbo New Member

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    So I managed to fire it up today. the ground to G1 5 or 6 ( can't remember) was the culprit.
    I'm a bit disappointed as I re-did them both as I wasn't happy with them! Must of got it wrong somewhere along the line.
    I've Got flashing water and oil lights though, so I'll be back with more questions if I can't find it what's wrong.

    Dave
     
  14. slawekwas New Member

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    @rubjonny
    You are really big!.
    Thanks to you i started my AGU from the first time. i was afraid that will be harder. 3 day study and engine idling.

    One again. Thank you :clap::clap:[:D]
     
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  15. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Open to suggestions on something to do with the installation, my ecu sits in the scuttle central under the wiper mechanism, what is a good way of securing it, not too much vertically room wise, was thinking of bonding a fabia ecu bracket in there, but not sure of clearance for removal, what have you guys done?
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Id prob start with a mk4 ecu bracket, chop it up and secure somehow. might be a bolt for wiper mech nearby you can use I used similar to hold my MK4 CCM alarm siren bracket in the mk2
     
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  17. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'll go looking for the bracket, cheers
     
  18. sergio cabañas almario New Member

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    You are a real legend, much appreciated all the content shared on the post and the quick response !!
    It started all perfect only problem was acelerator pedal was not compatible , i adquired one with the correct oem number and its making noise again
    Greetings and thanks from spain
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    great stuff :)
     
  20. swordfish New Member

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    Hey guys, I just took an already done loom out of a jetta with 20vt & have fitted it to my golf 20vt as I wanted to change my Narrowband to wideband, have changed all sensors etc. to suit but the car won't fire, turns over fine, fuel pump primes however when scanned with vcds I get a
    17072 Ecm power relay load circuit p0688-35-00-open circuit error?
    I have relay 428 in the car in fusebox area
    I'm fairly sure this circuit powers the coils/injectors so what plug or pins do I not have plugged in correctly or easy way to check with a simple multimeter?
    really struggling as expected plug & play as came from jetta
    anyone point me in right direction?
     

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