Hello all! I have been having the following problem since I bought the car: The car starts up PERFECTLY except when it has been run up to temp and then stopped for more 15 minutes - to - 8 hours. However, if I leave it at night and start it next morning , about 8-12hours or more later... it starts up perfectly. This issue appears when the car has been sitting with the engine stopped from 1 to 8 (or a little more) hours. When this happens, it seems to be running on 3 cylinders from 8-12seconds (idleing at 400 - 600 - 400 - 600 rpm all of time)... but then, all of a sudden, it makes BRURURUMMM and idles correctly at 900-1000rpm I have been testing it for a while in order to know WHEN does it exactly have this problem, and it doesn't matter if the oil temp is 50C, 80C, 90.... it mostly happens when it has been sitting from 15mins to 8 (or maybe more) hours since it was stopped. However, if I start it up and the problem occurs (and self-fixes itself); and then I stop it, and start it up again, it works fine Bits replaced (all of them brand new) & tested: 1. Rebuilt Engine 2. Block sensors 3. Distributor Cap & Rotor arm 4. Fuel pumps (intank and outtank) 5. Fuel filter 6. All air pipes checked, no leaks 7. Starter motor 8. Fuel accumulator 9. Earth wires from "-" battery to engine head (read about this somewhere, but made no difference) 10. Ignition timing set correctly 11. Injector seals 12. Throttle position switch 13. ISV 15. Overrun cutoff valve 16. CO at 2.5% (not enough bad to cause this problem..) 17. Fuel pressures tested (page 5) 18. Delivery test done (page 6) 19. 5th injector's plug disconnected And many other ones but I can't remember.. I need to say that all fuel pressures (system, etc) were checked and revised by a K-Jetronic master in a Bosch Service, but when it was checked this issue didn't disappear... so I checked them again and they're OK (wur mod already done ) One day, I decided to start it up, leave it for about 15 seconds idleing, and then shut it off. After 2 hours I came back to the car and WOW! it started up perfectly. I did it because in the case that the engine had been warmer than it was, it would have started up like on 3 cylinders... but it was stone cold, and started OK. thanks DELIVERY TEST DONE, SEE LAST PAGE
sorry m8, what is TC-I? I thought KRs didn't have Hall Sensor... could you please confirm? thank you for your reply, really really appreciated edit: TC-I is the throttle position switch? yes it was checked too.
they do have a hall sender , cant see it causing your probs though they usualy cause a nasty bucking /misfire and the rev counter goes spaz at the same time could be a duff injector ? bad spray pattern and leaking over those few hours , but left longer the leak dries up
well I think that if it was a leaking injector, this starting problem would also occur when left stopped for 30 minutes (for example)... anyway, injector seals were replaced 1 year ago..
the injector seals dont stop them leaking fuel most original inj are pretty tired now...maybe it hasnt leaked enough to matter over 30 mins
hmmm is there any procedure to check this? any special tool required for injector removal? pls reply, it might be the next test I do.. thanks!!!
large screwdriver to pop em out after a run poke each inj into a clean jar and watch for any dribbles
I think I may also try to start the car from cold, leave it for only 1 or 2 seconds so the fuel lines get pressurised. Then stop it and wait for a couple of hours to see if it starts bad again. so what if it happened?
should these dribbles appear instantaneously? or some time after stopping the engine? thank you very much for your help, it is REALLY appreciated
yes, but I mean, would any injector leaks (if there are any) be noticeable just after taking them out? or past some hours?
I`d disconnect the WUR from the engine block. That heats up when the engine is warm and it adjusts the mixture. If the heat is being retained in the wur, it is trying to start too lean, when actually you need it rich. The overnight wait is enough for it to cool down. Just remove the 2 allen bolts that secure it to the head, zip tie it in place away from the block, so the vac hose is still connected, let the engine warm up, then wait an hour and see if it starts. Thats what i`d do anyway.
if you do that the engine will be on cold start mixture /choke all the time , it it relys on the 12v to heat the bi metalic strip and uses the engine heat too you can test the wur properly with a pressure guage and a multimiter and the injectors...yes if they leak bad enough you will see them dripping
hello, the thing is I don't own any gauges for fuel pressure testing And.... ehrrrr...... jejje I can't remove one of the WUR bolts due to a rounded head
well thats how you test it , up to you to find some to buy or borrow no point in telling you otherwise , you'l waste a long time guessing at things otherwise as for the bolts ...irwin bolt grippers will get em out
well it would be very strange that the brand new fuel accumulator which I fitted last month was malfunctioning, wouldn't it? that's why I will (pretty probable) check injectors this afternoon with my girlfriend....... we spent all yesterday afternoon going shopping because she wanted to,... so I told her: tomorrow you check my injectors
My money is on leaky injectors too. Once it's been sat for a bit, you can take the spark plugs out, and shine a pencil torch (needs a narrow beam) down the bores - you might see a shimmer of petrol on the top of the piston. It helps if you give the car a little shake too. Also, does the exhaust reek of fuel when you first start it?
maybe yes, but I am used to that smell so I can't tell you really if the exhaust smells like petrol... but sometimes I can smell unburnt petrol from under the car, but no leaks are noticeable
I think the breather system on the KR petrol tank can give you wafts of petrol smell after a run. Like I said on the C forum it seems dodgy you have no fan run on switch on the head to keep the lines cool. You can do a certain amount of checking of the injectors by doing the pattern/flow test on here
