Poorly engine

Discussion in '16-valve' started by A blue mk2, Jul 5, 2019.

  1. A blue mk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2018
    Likes Received:
    0
    I'm looking for some advice on possible culprits for a poor running mk2 16v kjet, it starts fine and on with very light throttle revs okay up to 6k, and feels like it's going to take off but when I put my foot down the acceleration is worse than light throttle
    The fuel pump primes and I'm fairly sure the lift pump is working okay, the vacuum hose to the computer is sucking, it starts first time and have changed plugs\leads so think the spark is okay
    It makes an odd\off sound when I go past half throttle also the revs drop quite slowly and today when I revved it to 2.5k it just went down to 2k and didn't go any lower until I turned off the ignition
    My replacement exhaust manifold for my cracked one had been welded and seems to be leaking aswell, I know this won't help but would it totally ruin the power?
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,314
    Location:
    Bracknell
  3. A blue mk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2018
    Likes Received:
    0
    I did have a look a while ago, I've had another look through, one off my vacuum hoses that comes out the right hand side of the engine bay isn't connected up where should this go to? I think it's for the mfa, also how do I test the sensors on the side of the head? I don't have the tools to test the fuel pressure/timing and CO so I'm not sure how much further I can go myself
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,314
    Location:
    Bracknell
    the mfa hose goes to one of the nipples on the brake servo vacuum hose :)

    with the sensors if you dont have a multimeter you can try the trick in my guide where you swap the dashboard yellow/red wire between all 3 sensors then see if the dashboard reads the same for them all.

    the timing light you need shouldn't cost too much as it only needs to be a basic type without internal advance dial, just go for an inductive type as it makes your life much easier. I wouldn't bother with CO testers as the diy ones are a bit hit and miss, just pop down local garage and have it checked once you're sure everything is 100%. Theres a method in my guide for tuning by ear you can follow also
     
    A blue mk2 likes this.
  5. A blue mk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2018
    Likes Received:
    0
    Do you mean the nipple to the right hand side of the T piece that's attached from the computer/overrun? Mine has the vacuum hose attached from beside the brake servo, if so where should that one be going to? Also is it 3 or 5mmm hose? I've gone and bought 3 but it's not going on easily at all. Thanks
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,314
    Location:
    Bracknell
    On the main chunky hose from the inlet to the servo theres a non-return valve which originally had 2 small vacuum nipples. your MFA pipe goes to one and the rest of the engine vacuum lines to the other. If one of the nipples has snapped off you can T into the other nipple if need be. its 3.5mm ID for the vacuum lines, unless the hose is extremely rigid you should be able to use 3mm easily

    heres an awesome MS paint vacuum diagram ;)
    g2krvacuumdiagram-professionaledition.png
     
    A blue mk2 likes this.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice