Post up parts you should only buy genuine!

Discussion in 'Volkswagen Chat' started by cros40, Jan 24, 2006.

  1. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    do you know how closely related the quantum range is compared to the castrol range? im a quantum range fan and do dislike castrol so im going to look a bit of a berk if theyre practically the same!
     
  2. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    i get my quantum stuff from the vw parts dept, 20/25 litres at a time. no idea what they use in the service dept though
     
  3. Teutonic_Tamer New Member

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    OK, Quantum oils are generally the same specification as their related Castrol brews. However, Quantum oils use slightly cheaper or inferior ingredients compared to their Castrol equivalents. So lets take a LongLife3 504.00/507.00 oil - the Castrol EDGE 5w30 (and the dealer-only Castrol SLX Professional Powerflow LongLife3) might say use a mega-expensive Group5 ester basestock, the Quantum LongLife3 oil might use a less good Group4 PAO basestock.

    I have personally had this verified - both directly from Castrol/Quantum, and also from my local TPS.


    Strange - why don't you like Castrol?[:s]

    And the only reason to be a Quantum 'fan' is if you happen to run your own business, and put Quantum in other peeps cars . . . ;)
     
  4. Teutonic_Tamer New Member

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    I get genuine Castrol SLX Professional Powerflow LL3 in 60 litre drums from TPS - and thankfully, my local VW and Audi stealers also have the same in their workshops. Weather they actually use it in every car (yup - ALL cars, with a few very minor exceptions, should ONLY have LL3 oils in when serviced at a franchised workshop - even if the car is on T&D) - is another matter . . .
     
  5. twolitrepinto Forum Member

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    Driveshaft's & or CV Joints
    Starters/Alternators (other than Bosch)
    Coolant Hoses / Flanges
    Rubber Crank pulley/damper whatever you call it

    Driveshafts because in my experience working for a taxi firm as a mechanic, Q-drive Re-manufactured driveshafts last about 10 -20k miles before the CV joints start clicking away again, genuine ones last between 80 -120k ish sometimes longer.
    although this is not specific to VAG i am talking about 57 onwards peugeot experts, but im guessing re-manufactured driveshafts will suffer the same no matter what car they are on.

    We spend about 20k per month with europarts and i can tell you some of it is trash.
    Lucas starter motors i have had as many as 3 in a row not working out of the box until a 4th works,
    i also find that Q-drive Ball joints, Track rod ends, Drop links and Bushes especially tend to not last long AT ALL.
    Lemforder are much better for Bushes and ball joints etc. bit more flex in them but don't crack, they seem to try and stick closer to OEM specs.
    Bosch for starters/alternators never had a problem.

    Coolant hoses are hard to find from anywhere other than main dealer anyway and if u get them from GSF they dont last long before perishing.
    Plastic coolant flanges tend to be cheap plastic that warps when hot and causes leaks.

    Timing belt wise i havent really come across a bad make, i personally prefer Gates powergrip kits, but the only other i have known to get from euros are Dayco and conti-tech which also seem decent quality. same with Aux belts.

    Some of their Seperate aux tensioners are rubbish though had them whine from new.
    had a few cheapo crank pulleys that rattle as soon as you fit them.

    Brakes i find that Pagid are ok but seem a little on the cheap side, as in they don't last very long, after 1 set of pads the discs will be very worn.
    pagid recon calipers i have never had an issue with though.

    clutches, we always use sachs and never had a problem and we do go through some clutch kits!
    LUK are ok although had a few issues with hydraulich bearings popping
    Valeo also never had an issue.

    suspension again always use Sachs gas shocks and springs, never had a problem.

    the number one thing i would say is do not fit Q-drive bushes to anything they will be cracked and loose in no time and when i say no time i mean it still looks shiny and new but its buggered. get this ALL the time.
     
  6. thegave Forum Member

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    Surely it's much easier/quicker to compile a list of parts you can get away with buying aftermarket/repro instead?
     
  7. watercooled Forum Member

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    Clutches,engine mounts come to mind also,Chinese ones are really soft and become more so after a short time,have seen these problems first hand.
    Have heard a lot of bad press about Febi stuff that comes out of China ,the bmw guys have had a lot of grief with alloy control arms for instance,can't see the ones for VW being any differant.
    Window regulators can be a risky buy also,some just don't last or function as well as genuine and they are pretty cr#p also.
    Problem is a lot of OEM stuff is getting made in China,our country is getting flooded with it,IMO it will only get worse so its buyer beware as they say.
     
  8. wideboy New Member

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    most meyle parts are decent too!
     
  9. scirsteve Paid Member Paid Member

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    brake light switches,
    I fitted 3 from euro parts & 2 from gsf, failure from as little as a couple of weeks to a few months
    went vag in the end, switch has lasted as long as the other five put together and still going!
    Part from gsf looked identical to euro part, made me think it could have been same supplier hence same failure.
    (vehicle '99 20vt sharan)
     
  10. fastfinn New Member

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    Oil pressure switches. White or brown ones.
     
  11. blis Forum Member

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    For an ABF, use the Meyle CPS, it is completely enclosed in graphite/plastic (the back of the plug is not exposed Epoxy)
    Waterpumps, Im on the second replacement from Repco and I think the bearings are also going south.
    Headlights, Hella with the original backing plate the Chinese stuff is crappy and soft metal.
     
  12. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Looks like many seem to buy parts that originate from suppliers to the OE?
     
  13. Rooster

    Rooster Paid Member Paid Member

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    Not wishing to hijack the thread but it's kind of topical.

    Just about to buy Plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm for a Mk2 16v KR. Previously I have bought Beru from GSF for cap and arm, that seems to get the thumbs up here. Plugs are generally Bosch (though haven't looked at what GSF currently do) but what leads would you buy. GSF is listed as Electrospark at 49 as opposed to Heritage who do something cheaper but also Magnecor at 145. I'm after OEM style spec so just curious what I should go for - Magnecor seems a little steep though I'm sure would be good?
     
  14. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Breu or Bremi copper core leads for me for NASP and turbo 16v and 20v vehicles with more than 300bhp and 300lbft at WOT.

    I use NGK plugs usually.
     
  15. Rooster

    Rooster Paid Member Paid Member

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    AVS seem to do Beru at 53. They also have all the other bits as Beru, including spark plugs? Might be interesting to see what a full Beru set of parts does as presumeably they are intended to work together.
     
  16. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    I only use combinations that are proven to reliably work over various conditions and drive cycles.

    Beru or Bremi plug leads and NGK 7 for NASP and NGK 8s or higher for modified boosted stuff.
     
  17. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I wouldn't use anything else now
     

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