I was at a dismantler's recently, to obtain a elec. window regulator. This particular yard always removes the engine/gearbox before putting the car into its stock. In the case of the car I wanted the gear from, not only were the battery leads cut, but sections of wiring had been cut out all over. So connecting a battery in the usual way was pointless. I thought maybe a post showing how to operate the gear with a battery and (low-current)* jumper leads might be helpful, both for checking if the motor works and accessing the attachments for the glass. Firstly, use a 12v battery with a reasonable charge. If not already done, disconnect the wiring plug from the socket at the body pillar (it rotates CCW to release the plug). Detach the rubber trunking from the plug connector housing to expose the wires. Carefully connect the Positive terminal of the battery to the plug pin with a thick Red-yellow wire, at the top of a column of 8 pins (for front doors). Use another lead to connect the Negative battery terminal to the plug pin with a thick Brown wire (or wires). For a drivers' door; To lower the reg/glass, use a 3rd lead to connect the plug pin with a Green wire (the central locking 'Unlock' signal) to 12v, either at the Positive terminal or the 1st lead/plug pin. Should you need to raise the glass again, transfer the 3rd lead to apply 12v on the plug pin with a Grey wire (central locking 'Lock' signal). Take care re. the moving glass - this method by-passes the safety 'roll-back'/anti-pinch feature. Alternatively, or on a passenger door, the 3rd lead could be connected to simulate the ignition being On (apply 12v on the Black-yellow wire in 8-pin column) and the door-mounted switch used to control the motor. Rear doors would also need a second negative lead, to emulate the isolation switch in the dashboard. The schematics show this as Brown-black, using pin 21 of the 'B' pillar plug/socket. Pin 6 of the switch may be handier - the l.e.d. in the switch lights up when the circuit is 'live'. This presumes that the door wiring isn't damaged, there's no key handy and that central locking is fitted. Additional Only the drivers door has a connection between the central locking and the windows. So simply connecting 12v to Green or Grey wouldn't work on other doors. * I don't mean engine-starting thickness jumper leads, but smaller gauge wires with crocodile clips, preferably insulated, at each end.
